DBS questions

[pringles 0]

I got a chance to jump my mojo this weekend at the Dz to start dialing in my DBS. Anyways for my set up I put on a sail slider and bagged the canopy. I made my mark on the lines. Then I would pull my toggles down so that my mark was at the guide rig. I would hold it there for a good 30 sec and it would fly with minimal forward speed. Then I would pull down a little further 1.5 - 2.0 inches and then the canopy would start to stall. My plan was to put in a break setting using the mark as the top of my setting. Then I planned on jumping the canopy again. Once under canopy I would stow the breaks in the new setting and see how the rear risers would fly. I don't have any nice objects to jump like that legal span in the north west to dial it in. Do you think it would be advisable to go ahead and use this setting off my local A. Or should I wait until bridge day to check it out and continue to use my factory settings until then? Also I was wondering about for slider up. Now that I would have a deep break setting that was around 4-5 inches deeper ( I haven't measured it yet) could I start using my factory deep break setting for slider up or should I continue to use the shallow setting? I am planning on driving strait from bridge day to Moab so I would like to get this dialed in before then. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
Matt Davies

Kalamazoobase@yahoo.com

Matt Davies

[riggersam 1]

1.5 - 2 inches from stall sounds awful close. Since you had the canopy bagged and jumped it at a DZ, I assume that you had it in a skydiving rig. Remember that when you jump the canopy with your BASE rig, you will be lighter without the reserve. This changes the stall point a bit. Simply installing the brake setting will cause the lower control line to shrink a little, deepening the setting a bit. I definitely recommend testing your setting on another skydive and see how much further you have to pull it down to make it stall afterwards.

Don't use DBS for slider up BASE jumps. DBS is for slider down/off only. Now that I've said that, you might consider jumping your DBS on a skydive (where you have plenty of altitude) to see how it reacts. Since your setting is so close to stall, it might do something "funny".

Mark

[TomAiello 26]

This is my third attempt at this post, so I'll be brief (before this machine crashes again), and leave out the discussion.

I would set the DBS at the top of the mark. I'd use that DBS for slider down solid (i.e. cliff and building) objects. I'd use the old (factory) DBS for wind-through objects (like your A). I'd test out the factory DBS slider up (off a bridge over water), and see if it worked. If it did, I'd use it for my slider up setting.

I'll try to edit my reasoning back in when I get to a more stable machine.

-- Tom Aiello

Tom@SnakeRiverBASE.com
SnakeRiverBASE.com

[baseclimb 0]

Tom,

If your canopy opens with the factory-dbs, on slider up, does this means 'it works'? Are there any other factors one should keep in mind, apart from 'back-surge', like, does my canopy take more altitude to open than previously? Is this a mesuarable risk?

Why I ask this is I am also trying to set my DBS, and jumped S/U on factory-DBS. All went well, but I am not sure if there are things I should be aware of.

Also, as I understand from previous posts, is there an increase in the jelly-fish thing on vented canopies when opening on the edge of stalling or just before? With my current setting, I experience it, but not consistent.

I jump a BlackJack.

Cheers