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Do you push them back in and then sew through the riser with super tack?



If they are made out of the same conduit the cutaway, and reserve housings are, then yes a wrap of supre tack, then through the risers webbing should do the trick.

Of course you could forget about all that and go with Kelly Faringtons(VSE) new design. One of the nicest risers built right now. The Housings have an AMP fitting on the end and it is attached to the riser using the grommet for the cutaway loop.
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One of the nicest risers built right now.



I totally agree. I just got a set of the new risers from VSE and I am very impressed by how they used the AMP fitting to make it so the hard housing can'nt come out ever.

Super tack works on the steel housings but I heard there was another trick that could be used on the Javelin plastic housings, any one know it?
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Sure. Pull em' out anr replace them with the steel housings.



Rigging Innovations no longer sells metal riser inserts. They only sell plastic ones.

They come with directions for you rigger.
The mouth of the riser channel is sewn half way shut so the plastic insert cannot slip out. There is still enough opening to route the cut away cable.

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Rigging Innovations no longer sells metal riser inserts. They only sell plastic ones.



No biggie. When I had my old Talon, I bought hard inserts from RWS and had them installed in my rig.
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The mouth of the riser channel is sewn half way shut so the plastic insert cannot slip out. There is still enough opening to route the cut away cable.



The problem with that design and others like it is that the channel suporting the insert from the botom is subject to wear. If you don't keep a watch on it's wear you run the risk of the material wearing enough for the insert to slip down and through the cutaway release loop, there by making it imposible to release the 3 ring even if you've removed the entire cutaway handle.

There are a few ways to prevent this from happening.

1) Tack the housing in place to the riser. For metal housings wraping the tacking material around the housing a couple of times is good. For the plastic housings, peircing the top end of the hoising should work ok.

2) Better yet on the metal housings you can use an Oetiker clamp at the top of the insert and tack that to the riser. I believe Mirage uses this method.

3) My favorite is Kelly Faringtons new riser. He's taken the metal inserts and swedged an amp fitting (the same one that's at the top of your cutaway housing) on to it. Then when building the riser, he put's the gromet that goes through the riser, through the amp fitting as well, there by securing it permenently in place. Simple and Efective.
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3) My favorite is Kelly Faringtons new riser. He's taken the metal inserts and swedged an amp fitting (the same one that's at the top of your cutaway housing) on to it. Then when building the riser, he put's the gromet that goes through the riser, through the amp fitting as well, there by securing it permenently in place. Simple and Efective.


How does one get ahold of Kelly to purchase a set?
Mark

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Seating the tacking cord deep in the spiral grooves of any metal housing is a sign of good workmanship when hand-tacking.

For plastic housings, you can only depend upon friction - between cord and housing to hold them in place. So the tighter you pull the tacking cord the better.

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