Brake setting configuration help

[Twoply 0]

I've come accross a system of settings that I am not used to. I took several photos of the system and would like to know a few things. I've made up my own terms for what I see. I hope you can follow.
For Slider Down use:
1. What is the sequence to setting these properly? Cutaway Looking loop goes through Riser Ring, then through Brake setting in the control line, then pin goes through Cutaway Looking Loop, then Pin goes into Riser Keeper?
2. Which routing is correct for the control line to go?Between the toggle stow and the pin or off to the side?
Please see the attached photos. I've undone the previous configuration on one of the risers to show all the parts. I've set the two risers side by side to explain the control line routing question.
For Slider Up use?
Thanks
Mike

[hookitt 1]

Put the loop throught the Brake setting. Then put the loop through the Guide ring. Put the pin through the loop.

Make sense?

My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

[Twoply 0]

Yup!

[hookitt 1]

With those type of toggles, it's the same for slider up except the brakeline will pass through the slider grommets and the guide ring just like your skydiving rig.

My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

[RayLosli 11]

Loop - line eyelet - Pin for no slider.
standard, Toggle - Loop for slider up.
looks like them Risers have seen a few jumps. Also one of the brake lines settings look well worn. Toggle grommets are rusty and corroded too. Should just toss them things in the trash can. I also hate those kind of Velcro line stows on Risers. or Just save them for water jumps.
Personally I wouldn't be seen Dead with them Risers on my Rig. ..........

.

[pringles 0]

As for your second question. I have packed this style a handfull of times. Its been a while though. The routing on the left looks kinda cramped between the toggle and pin. The routing on the right looks cleaner (to me), but I think that the little slack there will bind on the toggle at the keeper and maybe wear the keeper and control line at that point. So I would probably use the routing on the left riser.

Does that make sense? Grab that control line on the right and pull strait up (twards the canopy). Does it only load on the cutaway loop thingy or does it grab the right bottom corner of the toggle keeper?

Ok found an old pic and it proves I would use the one on the left.

Matt Davies

[bert_man 0]

I dont know shit, so dont listen to me


In the left pic, it appears that the brake setting is in front of the ring. Something doesnt seem right about this, because it looks like it could potentially just rip the pin right out of its keeper with enough force. In the pic on the right, it looks like the brake setting is behind the keeper ring, allowing the ring to keep the pin in place.

Anybody else see this as a possibility?

[PeteS 0]

Those look like old GS risers,first get your steering lines replaced. The left line routing looks best to me. No bend in the line and the line pulled taught, so as not to slip when load is applied. The hookit and Ray replies sound correct. Slider down, locking loop through the brake line then through the ring then the pin through the locking loop only. slider up you can stow just like a skydiving toggle or manipulate the pin through like above. These style toggles need to be pulled hard to release, the locking loop can bind on the ring but will clear with a sharp pull.

[Bryguy1224 12]

I have seen a person with that setup have trouble releasing their toggles. He got is loose but pounded in. He was yanking on his left toggle so hard it was distorting the canopy and it just wouldn't release. Just drop the 30 or 40 bucks and get standard toggles.

Bryan Ody

[lifewithoutanet 0]

Quote

2. Which routing is correct for the control line to go?Between the toggle stow and the pin or off to the side?

Two of my rigs have this type of risers/toggles. I have always stowed them with the control line to the outside of the pin. In this case, ref the left-side riser/toggle in pic HPIM1717jjii.JPG . You have the control line routed between the toggle and pin.

Using that left-side riser/toggle as an example, I would route the control line to the right of the pin (not between the pin and togglestub) in such a way that the fingertrap is also to the right side. This puts the stress of the opening shock on the dacron and not the fingertrap.

I'll post pics of how I set brakes with this style of risers/toggles tomorrow, once I find my camera's card-reader. In the meantime, ask away if you have questions. There are varying opinions on this style of riser/toggle and not everyone knows why they were designed, what benefit they serve and additionally, what risk they can present.

-C.

[Twoply 0]

I received this rig with the toggles set as they are on the right riser. This whole setup just seems unneccesarily complicated. My other rig has the standard control line eyelet, loop and ring. Changing over to that setup is going to require me to get a new loop on there that is big enough to slip the toggle top into. The loops are only big enough to accept a pin. I dont see how just dropping a new set of toggles onto this rig is going to work without modifying the loop anchor point.

[Twoply 0]

Or just get a whole new set of risers and toggles?

[vid666 0]

Quote

Or just get a whole new set of risers and toggles?

that's probably the best idea... while at it, may I suggest BIG GRAB style toggles ? In my opinion they are pretty much a must any low jump.

[lifewithoutanet 0]

Quote

Changing over to that setup is going to require me to get a new loop on there that is big enough to slip the toggle top into.

Not only big enough loop, but a stronger stow in which to place the toggle stub. One of the biggest concerns over these types of risers is that the toggle stub and pin rest in elastic when stowed, not in a reinforced nylon stow as on standard LRT risers.

An argument I've heard is that this makes these toggles more succeptable to premature brake fire. I understand the point, but I've never lost one.

In any case, I'd just replace the risers if you wanted them to be standard LRT-type risers.
-C.