Finger trapping.

[kitof1976 0]

Last night I was hooking my new main to my risers and in the process of attaching the toggles to the control line I managed to screw up the finger trap. The way I was set up is that the lower controll line just finger trapped and a knot was made so the finger trap wouldn't come out.
At any rate, I undid the knot holding the finger trap and I managed to have the finger trap come out a little. So now I have a lower control line longer that the other and I need to refinger trap it to make it shorter. Hopefully this make sense.
Now my question is how common is it to have a finger trap held by just a knot? I suppose this is for ease of adjusting the breaks...
And my next question is where can I find fids or how can i make one so that I can refinger trap my lower control line?

"We see the world just the way we are...

[sammer 0]

Just tying an overhand knot in the control line to hold the fingertrap is pretty common. Once you are sure the brake settings are to your liking you can have your rigger sew them. I really doubt a rigger would charge you anything to fix that.

The fids are sold by Para-Gear for $10 a set (plastic ones). And I think you can find a couple of threads here on making your own fingertrapping tool with piano wire.

I currently just have my steering lines tied with an overhand knot and left the ends hanging out. I got tired of accidentaly pulling the fingertraps out- like what you just did. As soon as I figure out where I want them, I'll have my rigger fingertrap and sew them. I have asked a couple riggers about them and both said there isn't any real issue with leaving the free ends hanging (they aren't very long on mine). You may want to consider just doing that until you are sure the settings are right.


Sam

[sldiveout 0]

when I'm helping someone with their control lines I'll tie the overhand knot first so the person can adjust the toggle setting, then once the have it where they want it I'll fingertrap it in. I don't generally sew it because they may want to adjust it later as they fly the canopy more, or if the brake lines shrink they may want to let them out.

[jmfreefly 0]

Just a word of warning on tying knots there. I have seen some reports of knots getting hung up (on the guide ring) momentarily during landing maneuvers (mostly high speed, but could still cause some heartache).

I usually try to fingertrap the excess right away. If I need to adjust, I just re-fingertrap. I also don't sew them, and maybe once a year I will have to re-fingertrap the little bit that creeps out.

j

[masterrig 1]

If, you have a Tandy Leather store near you, they carry a 'leather lacing tool', that works great on just about all line sizes as well as . It measures about 4" long and is made of brass. It is totally cylindrical in shape, pointed at one end and threaded inside the open end. If, you know a machinist, he can make you a set out of different size knitting needles, cut to proper length and threaded. If, you're a 'picker', the E (1st.) string, works real good. Just an idea.

Chuck
I've seen many lower brake lines finger-trapped and knotted. Like the man said, after a while, the finger-trapped end,tends to work it's way out. A good tack with 'E' thread or a rigger sewing them, works best.

[councilman24 37]

Forget any fid that involves a threaded cavity at the end of a rod, metal or plastic. This requires hot knifing or melting the end so the hard melted line ingages in the threads. Then you have to try to screw this into the end of the fid. And not leave any hard parts out side to snag.

Much better alternative (LEARNED AT PIA SYMPOSIUM)

app 18" of 0.030 or 0.035" piano wire, available at any model hobby shop, a 6" piece of 3/4" or 1" dowel, duct tape, drill.

Drill small hole through dowel in middle, i.e. 1/8".
Bend piano wire in half.
Stick the two ends through the dowel leaving about 6" of the double wire. Bend the two ends in opposite directions. Wrap dowel with duct tape to hold wire.

Now, insert end of piano wire "needle" into braided line from beyond the far end of the finger trap. Gather line onto "needle" until you get to the entry point and exit the piano wire out through the braided line. Insert the standing end of the line to be inserted a little ways (1/2") through the loop at the bend in the piano wire. Pull line through, actually pushing the line off the wire (to keep tension off the finger trap) as you pull it through. Pull line out of wire, cut to final length if not alread done (at an acute angle to minimize strength loss, milk back into the outside line, and tack or sew if required.

I have literally spent an hour trying to do one finger trap with the old metal fids. (Not having a good day) I can do the same thing in 20 secs with this.

This is the single most valuable rigging tip I've ever learned, from Rags at the PIA symposium.

I'm old for my age.
Terry Urban
D-8631
FAA DPRE

[kitof1976 0]

Thank you so much Terry. That was really informative. The method you are using really seems to be the easiest. I'm gonna get some piano wire tonight... but I might just pass the dowel part cause mine would be just for a one time use

I never thought about starting from the far end of the fingertrap...and then pulling in through. This method really seems painless.

Thanks for the info!

"We see the world just the way we are...

[rushmc 23]

If you go ahead and use the dowel and save the tool you can use it to make your own main closing loops too! Comes in handy.

"America will never be destroyed from the outside,
if we falter and lose our freedoms,
it will be because we destroyed ourselves."
Abraham Lincoln

[mjosparky 4]

Quote

Stick the two ends through the dowel leaving about 6" of the double wire. Bend the two ends in opposite directions. Wrap dowel with duct tape to hold wire.

Use two sections of heat shrink and you will have a neater tool.
Sparky

My idea of a fair fight is clubbing baby seals

[riggerrob 643]

councilman,

I agree with your method.
My hollow fingertrapping fids have been gathering dust for years.

Another - less expensive source of wire is your friendly neighborhood aircraft mechanic.
10 thou witness wire works great on Cypres cord.
32 thou lock wire works well with most suspension lines, while
40 thou works best on those fat Dacron steering lines on Ravens.

Also including a metal ring as a handel makes it easier to fingertrap fat Dacron line.

[freeflyfree 0]

what about this http://www.jumpshack.com/default.asp?CategoryID=TECH&PageID=Nosewtrap&SortBy=TITLE_A

--
Blue Skies
NO FEARS, NO LIMITS, NO MONEY...
"A Subitánea et Improvísa Morte, Líbera nos, Domine."

[councilman24 37]

Yeah, but I have duct tape. I ususally don't have much heat shrink around.

Freeflyfree,

I've seen the no sew locking method before. But you know, I've never used it. Hmmmm Have to try some time.

I'm old for my age.
Terry Urban
D-8631
FAA DPRE

[sid 1]

or there's a pictorial here http://www.sidsrigging.com/Articles/stitchless_fingertrap.htm

Pete Draper,

Just because my life plan is written on the back of a Hooter's Napkin, it's still a life plan.... right?

[slotperfect 7]

Thanks, guys. This kind of thread really contributes to the betterment of our sport. Thanks for the links and the specific instructions for making the wire fid. My pal Rags Raghanti made mine for me, and it works like a charm.

My choice for control lines is, like previously posted, is to tie the overhand knot making the loop, attach the toggle, then fingertrap the excess in smoothly, leaving as little of a gap as possible between the knot and where the excess enters the line at the bottom of the fingertrap. I don't sew mine either.

Arrive Safely

John