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NickDG

Winter Bike Project . . .

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You do realize that with all of us following this build that you are going to have to video the initial start up and put it up on YouTube, RIGHT???
"There are NO situations which do not call for a French Maid outfit." Lucky McSwervy

"~ya don't GET old by being weak & stupid!" - Airtwardo

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What, couldn't find a wider belt drive?:D

Running a gaurd on it?

I run both belt,and chain primaries on my 3 knuckles, I love the ride and sound of the belts, But feel safer riding the chain, because the only time in my life I had to push my knucklehead, is when the belt broke!

But , then I do run the smaller belt so I can keep the stock cover!

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Dropped mine off last night to get it painted. Looking forward to getting it all back together...if i remember HOW it all goes [:/]

LifeshouldNOTbeajourneytothegravewithawellpreservedbody,buttskidinsideways,cigarinone hand,martiniintheother,bodythoroughlyused upandscreaming:"WOO HOO!! What a ride!!!"

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I'll definitely video Nina's first start. Couldn't cheat all you guys following this thread out of seeing that!

>>What, couldn't find a wider belt drive?:D
It's the standard 85mm wide (3.35") belt drive. They did have a two inch model for running an enclosed primary but I didn't go that way. I'm not running the outer bearing support right now (the guard) but I can easily add one later on. You really need those with a big inch motor like an Ultima's 127 but with Nina's stock 80 incher the motor plate will keep things lined up. Plus the damn thing is $300! The only issue is I'm going to rip up every left pant's cuff I have on that forward pulley.

>>>Looking forward to getting it all back together...if i remember HOW it all goes
>>>>You didn't take pictures!!??
Pictures don't really help. After painting what I'm finding is it's not so much "how" it goes together but "when" it goes together. I had to remove the belt drive motor plate (having it all lined up, Red Locktited and torqued down) after realizing I couldn't mount the oil tank without scratching and gouging it all up and it needed to go on first.

Skydave, on your paint job, did you masked off where the motor and trans sits on the frame? You want those sitting on bare metal so you have good electrical grounds. If not you can razor blade the paint off. Another tip is if you went with the flat black paint get a small jar of matching paint and a really good small artist's paint brush. Then you can easily touch up the scrapes and scratches that are inevitable during re-assembly and before you can't get to some of those places later on.

I didn't get the clutch buttoned up yesterday. I got sidetracked on a few of those things I kept saying, "I'll do later." I painted the headlight mount I made and got some better looking hardware to mount it. I also mounted the front fender and brake caliber. Lastly I cut Nina's rear fender to clear the chain.

One thing I noticed yesterday is the forward motor pulley on the belt drive needs a shim to square it up with the rear drive pulley. The shim is just a big honking washer that goes onto the crank shaft and butts up against the alternator rotor. I just have to go do the hardware store crawl to find one big enough. I'm lucky in that there's two good hardware stores in my neighborhood but the female cashiers who see me sometimes three times a day buying nut's and bolts give me a laugh sometimes. "Why don't you get," one asked me, "what you need all at once?" Woman! They equate everything with baking a cake. LOL.

Last night I figured up I need to spend another eight hundred dollars for the last of the parts I need. So I reckon sticking up three or four more liquor stores should about cover it . . . :P

Don't look at the rear fender in the photos, it's just sitting there and not locked down into its final position.

NickD :)

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>>>>You didn't take pictures!!??
Pictures don't really help. After painting what I'm finding is it's not so much "how" it goes together but "when" it goes together. I had to remove the belt drive motor plate (having it all lined up, Red Locktited and torqued down) after realizing I couldn't mount the oil tank without scratching and gouging it all up and it needed to go on first.



:$ Sorry...

Maybe y'all could set-up a web-cam in the garage so y'all can time-lapse the build and go back over it as needed. You could link it here to dropzone.com and let folks tune in and watch... the build... could call it "Nick & Nina Cam"! ;)

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Skydave, on your paint job, did you masked off where the motor and trans sits on the frame? You want those sitting on bare metal so you have good electrical grounds. If not you can razor blade the paint off. Another tip is if you went with the flat black paint get a small jar of matching paint and a really good small artist's paint brush. Then you can easily touch up the scrapes and scratches that are inevitable during re-assembly and before you can't get to some of those places later on.
NickD :)



I will be sure to get some touch up paint! I'm not getting the frame painted. just the tanks, fenders, air cleaner cover, horn and ignition cover.

ZigZagMarquis - I had posted the stripped down part a few pages back. I will post the finished product when I get it a couple of weeks.
LifeshouldNOTbeajourneytothegravewithawellpreservedbody,buttskidinsideways,cigarinone hand,martiniintheother,bodythoroughlyused upandscreaming:"WOO HOO!! What a ride!!!"

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Cool, you're running fatbobs too! Are those flatsides or the earlier ones?

BTW, on the >> "Nick & Nina Cam"!

I had the whole day so I got a lot done (Somewhere along the line Julia reminded me it was Easter.) I got the belt drive all bolted up and the clutch installed. I never messed with a belt drive before and when the instructions began, "The Street Belt Drive installation is a fairly straight forward process." I should have smelled trouble. Like Micky Spillane wrote, "It was a blonde. A blonde to make a Bishop kick a hole in a stained glass window."

It took a few tries to get everything lined up, Locktite applied, and torqued to specifications. But it's on now and the transmission shifts all right so that's a good sign.

If I had this project to do over one thing I would have invested in is a lathe. I've had to come up with all kinds of work arounds for not having one. Like the main transmission nut needed a few hundreds of an inch shaved off its flange to fit into the recessed part of the offset collar. So I took safety wire and tied it up on my drill press chuck so it spun true. Then hit the edge of the flange with an angle grinder. Total hillbilly but it worked.

And today I needed to ream out a hardened washer (couldn't find one locally that fit right) to sit behind the motor pulley. It took hours of filing and grinding to get it just right. Could have knocked it out on a lathe in 10 minutes . . .

NickD :)

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Cool, you're running fatbobs too! Are those flatsides or the earlier ones? NickD :)



ummm...not sure. I don't know the difference.
LifeshouldNOTbeajourneytothegravewithawellpreservedbody,buttskidinsideways,cigarinone hand,martiniintheother,bodythoroughlyused upandscreaming:"WOO HOO!! What a ride!!!"

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>>ummm...not sure. I don't know the difference.
Harley made four types of "modern" Fatbob gas tanks.

Three are 5 gallon tanks and one is the smaller 3.5 gallon tanks. They all have a slightly different shapes and different mount systems. The early ones most people call Shovelhead tanks (although they predate that motor) and were manufactured between 1936 and 1984. I have these on on Nina. They have a more full chested look and bayonet style has caps.

The newer ones are called Flatsides and they are still being made today. They have the screw in type gas caps to fit the new style gas pump nozzles that came out in the mid-80s. (And sometimes you hear about clueless new Harley owners who stick it in like a car and lock the handle and then watch it overflow all over their bikes, LOL.)

To further complicate things there is also a one piece Fatbob, but these run that butt ugly tiny dash panel like you see on Dynas and other touring bikes.

NickD :)

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BTW, on the >> "Nick & Nina Cam"!



:D:D:D:D:S

Well, you could just disable the mic!



Quote

I had the whole day so I got a lot done (Somewhere along the line Julia reminded me it was Easter.)



You didn't find any Easter eggs during yesterday's build session, did you?


But seriously, looks like she's coming together quick.

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'Yup, that's right, I forgot about those, so there's really five types of Fatbobs . . .

I got my rear brake working today. (So I know I put it together right.) but I was lacking a banjo bolt for the caliber so instead of going back down to the Stealer (again) I just made one. It's just a 3/8 fine thread bolt with a hole down the center and another off to the side. Well, it was no problem after three frigging tries and busting a bunch of drill bits, but I got a rear brake now.

Tomorrow, if I get time, I'll buff out and paint Nina's rear fender.

NickD :)

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ahh..It all makes sense now!! I have flat sides. Thanks for the tutorial!

I am going to rewire the blinkers and tail light tomorrow. Someone had messed with it before I bought it and made a mess. Shit going EVERYWHERE.
Would like to get different blinkers and taillight, but don't have the $ for that right now.
LifeshouldNOTbeajourneytothegravewithawellpreservedbody,buttskidinsideways,cigarinone hand,martiniintheother,bodythoroughlyused upandscreaming:"WOO HOO!! What a ride!!!"

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I'm going to have to deal with turn signals too. They just changed the law here in California so I need them for the initial DMV inspection. :|

Well, oh boy! I just ordered everything I need to finish Nina! It's going to be Top Ramon Noddles and Lone Star Beer for the next few months but I'm getting her on the road this summer if I have to starve (and drink cheap beer!) ;)

Here's what I just purchased:

- Exhaust, Big Growl Sharp Shooters, $104.95
- Exhaust, Two Piece Extended Heat Shields, $69.95
- Carburetor Total Kit, Mikuni HSR 42mm Smooth Bore, $399.95
- Fuel Petcock, Straight Outlet OEM Style, $9.95
- Crankcase Head Breather Kit, $47.95
- Ignition, Complete Ultima Programmable Kit, $154.95
- Voltage Regulator, Black, USA Made, $47.95
- Battery, AGM, Custom Size, $149.95
- Battery Cable Set, $20.99
- Clutch Cable, Stainless, $13.55
- Front Brake Master Cylinder, $54.50 (The Ebay one I bought was messed up and not rebuildable.)
- Dual Throttle Cable, Motion Pro, Black, $22.99

Total = $1,111.38
Feeling = Priceless!

NickD :)

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