Connector Link Orientation

[JaapSuter 0]

Hi,

couldn't find it with a search, so here goes.

What way should connector links be oriented? Afaik, the thread should be up, on the canopy side, and the opening should face to the inside (towards the opposite riser).

Is that correct?

Any motivation for this (or any particular) orientation?

Thanks,

Jaap

[FrogNog 1]

I was told the barrel nut side should be to the inside and the shorter end of the openable side of the link (the threaded end) should be toward the canopy. The reasoning that was explained to me was:
1. if the barrel nut should open and a line slip off, it's better to lose a center line than an outside line.
2. if the barrel nut should open and something slip off, it's better to lose a line than the riser. (Losing the riser is equivalent to losing ALL the lines; it's hard to do worse than that by losing one or more lines.)

So the reasoning I was explained is centered around "if the barrel nut should open, mitigate the damage by locating the opening furthest from the worst things that could get disconnnected."

-=-=-=-=-
Pull.

[JaapSuter 0]

Awesome, that makes total sense. Thanks!

[mark 107]

Orienting the links as you describe is the most common way I've seen. It allows more room for the riser (making it easier for the link to orient on the riser during packing and opening), and makes one less bump to ding slider grommets (or allows your silicon slider bumpers to last a bit longer).

I've noticed that tandem lines get crowded on #6 links, so I've been thinking about installing those links "upside down," which gives the lines more room, but the riser less.

At least one poster here (one whom I respect a lot) installs the links with the short leg toward the riser, on the theory that repeated opening shock deceleration would otherwise cause the barrel to unscrew.

I don't worry much about barrels loosening. Lok-tite, a witness mark, and frequent checking is pretty good insurance.

Mostly link orientation is about looking good; the standard practice is one that engenders a feeling of confidence. It's symmetrical; it looks normal. From a functional standpoint, it doesn't matter much.

Please don't tell my customers that I threaded all their Slinks counterclockwise, the ones on the right as well as the ones on the left -- I think.

Mark

[mjosparky 4]

PPM calls for them to be installed with the barrel end toward the riser and with the barrel to the inside on one riser and to the outside on the other. The theory being it prevents the barrels from banging on each other and they will lie flatter in the pack tray.

Sparky

My idea of a fair fight is clubbing baby seals

[KevinMcGuire 0]

Quote

PPM calls for them to be installed with the barrel end toward the riser and with the barrel to the inside on one riser and to the outside on the other. The theory being it prevents the barrels from banging on each other and they will lie flatter in the pack tray.

Sparky

Putting the link so that the barrel is "down" creates a higher possability of the barrel and threads of the link causing abrasion to the selvage edge of the riser as it wiggels around. Often links come from the link manufacture with burrs on them which need to filed off so that they are not a threat to the riser. However, filing the link prior to shipping with the canopoy is not always done sufficently enough to prevent this damage.
As to the notion that the barrels should be flipped opposite each other so that they can lay flatter in the container, I would say that the risk of loosing out board lines far out ways the need to have them lay flatter in the pack tray. Here's why.
If you are stacking your risers one on top of another, then the two will become a spot where they will dig into the jumpers back and any bennifit gained by "flipping" the link has been lost by stacking them.
Instead, I prefer to "fan" the risers out so that they do not become a hard point digging into the jumpers back

[KevinMcGuire 0]

Oh yea. One other thing. PPM might say to put the links oppisite each other but lets face it, while those manual have a wealth of info in them, they are also rather antiquated. I know that I have just committed a cardnal sin by saying that, but so what it's true

[mjosparky 4]

I did not say "barrel down". I said the barrel end to the riser. That puts the thread end of the opening to the lines.

When was the last time you saw a line come off an open link?

If you don't agree with this method, tell it to Dan. I just stated what the manual said.

Sparky

My idea of a fair fight is clubbing baby seals

[KevinMcGuire 0]

Quote

I did not say "barrel down". I said the barrel end to the riser. That puts the thread end of the opening to the lines.

My mistake. I misread what you had written. I thought by "barrel end" you ment the open end of the barrel and as such meant barrel down.

When was the last time you saw a line come off an open link?

I have seen this happen 4 times through out the years. True it is not a very common occurance but it does happen

If you don't agree with this method, tell it to Dan. I just stated what the manual said.

I was not trying to upset anyone perticularly you. I just meant that the PPM has some great info but there are much more up to date methods avalible than what is mentioned in the PPM. Untill some one writes some thing new, we need to share our techniques with each other in forums like these.

• Quote

[mjosparky 4]

Quote

I have seen this happen 4 times through out the years. True it is not a very common occurance but it does happen

I have never seen this happen even with the barrel unscrewed. I have seen the link open up to a "C" shape but the lines would not come off over the threads.

Not upset, just that some things don't make sense, new or old.

Sparky

My idea of a fair fight is clubbing baby seals