my electric bill....

[banesanura 1]

so with all that extra dough you gonna hook it up with jumps?

Best Girl Scout Ever.

[squirrel 0]

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A little education is a good thing.

no kidding...wonder how many people know that Volts X Amps = Watts, and Watts X time = your consumption, and your consumption X $ per kilowatt = your bill.

Ok... wait a minute...
I just did the math and im confused..

Volts x amps =watts correct?
220Vx 40 amps= 8800
Wattsx time= consumtion
8800 x 9 hours= 79200
consumtion x $ per kilowatt= bill
79200 x .097 c/kw= $7683.4


that doesn seem right?

8800 watts is 8.8 kilowatts

Ahhhh.. i see.. ok.. so that makes the math then..


Volts x amps =watts correct?
220Vx 40 amps= 8800
Wattsx time= consumtion
8.8 x 9 hours= 79.2
consumtion x $ per kilowatt= bill
79.2 x .097 c/kw= $7.68

is that right?

So if i have a hot tub.. that is 220v and pulls 40 amps.. and run it for 9 hours, its only 8 bucks?

oh yeah, forgot to tell you to "ALWAYS CARRY YOUR UNITS!" thats how my math teacher used to yell at me.

________________________________
Where is Darwin when you need him?

[BillyVance 34]

Hi Bill, thanks for the info. We do have a Trane dealer in town. I am not sure whether I want to hire the company I had come out and look at the old unit a month ago (they do general maintenance and repairs) or have Trane do it themselves (maybe best option?). FWIW, the master suite is ALWAYS colder than the rest of the house in the winter and warmer in the summer, even though the main duct was extended into the addition. It's a pretty big addition, just as big as most efficiency or 1 bedroom apartments, but there are only three vents, and I think there should be at least two more. I think the original house was about 1700 sq ft, and the addition makes it 2500 sq ft or thereabouts. I would have to tape measure to make sure though.

"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

[squirrel 0]

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I think the original house was about 1700 sq ft, and the addition makes it 2500 sq ft or thereabouts. I would have to tape measure to make sure though.

you want to size the AC unit at 1 ton of cooling to 500 sf of livable space.

________________________________
Where is Darwin when you need him?

[banesanura 1]

My sybian and shockspot take up alot of energy.

Best Girl Scout Ever.

[billeisele 130]

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I think the original house was about 1700 sq ft, and the addition makes it 2500 sq ft or thereabouts. I would have to tape measure to make sure though.

you want to size the AC unit at 1 ton of cooling to 500 sf of livable space.

Absolutely DO NOT do this, this is old school and is the worst thing to do.

My upstairs has 1650 sq ft including a room over the garage. It has a split system heat pump: 2.5 ton outdoor unit and a 3-ton air handler. It works great: it is cool and terrific humidity control.

It is all about the heat gain/heat loss. The calculation accounts for all relevant factors that impact the ability of the unit to control the space conditioning.

Using the 1-ton per 500 sq ft would be the same as telling a 160 lb jumper to use a 150 sq ft canopy without considering other factors. WRONG.

Give one city to the thugs so they can all live together. I vote for Chicago where they have strict gun laws.

[billeisele 130]

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Hi Bill, thanks for the info. We do have a Trane dealer in town. I am not sure whether I want to hire the company I had come out and look at the old unit a month ago (they do general maintenance and repairs) or have Trane do it themselves (maybe best option?). FWIW, the master suite is ALWAYS colder than the rest of the house in the winter and warmer in the summer, even though the main duct was extended into the addition. It's a pretty big addition, just as big as most efficiency or 1 bedroom apartments, but there are only three vents, and I think there should be at least two more. I think the original house was about 1700 sq ft, and the addition makes it 2500 sq ft or thereabouts. I would have to tape measure to make sure though.

Billy - your situation is different than a normal replacement, send me a PM with your phone number, too many details for here

in general - the main trunk duct should be sized to the air flow of the unit, the original duct was sized (hopefully) for the unit when the house was 1700, when the addition was installed they simply extended the duct - idiots, if you simply increase tonnage to handle the additional sq footage it will not work correctly and you will have other problems and waste money

picture a water hose that is 1/2" in diameter 50' long, your water pressure is X, you know you need the water to come out at a certain volume and velocity to do the job you have, the existing hose works great

now move the project 25' further away and add 25' of hose, the volume and velocity will decrease if the pressure stays the same, you can't simply add a larger diameter hose for the last 25', you have to deal with the whole 75'

Give one city to the thugs so they can all live together. I vote for Chicago where they have strict gun laws.

[squirrel 0]

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I think the original house was about 1700 sq ft, and the addition makes it 2500 sq ft or thereabouts. I would have to tape measure to make sure though.

you want to size the AC unit at 1 ton of cooling to 500 sf of livable space.

Absolutely DO NOT do this, this is old school and is the worst thing to do.

My upstairs has 1650 sq ft including a room over the garage. It has a split system heat pump: 2.5 ton outdoor unit and a 3-ton air handler. It works great: it is cool and terrific humidity control.

It is all about the heat gain/heat loss. The calculation accounts for all relevant factors that impact the ability of the unit to control the space conditioning.

Using the 1-ton per 500 sq ft would be the same as telling a 160 lb jumper to use a 150 sq ft canopy without considering other factors. WRONG.

i know this is "old school" but i was making a point that his current system is under sized. ( i am a GC, used to build spec homes) yes, he should hire someone to do energy calcs (most people have no idea what a "heating day" is, what zone the are in, or what R and U factors are...i loved my thermodynamics classes. )on the house to determine the required heating and cooling....a required process here in california. if the addition was "permitted" i am surprised that this was not done. and yes, anytime you have 2 stories, or a spread out floorplan....split systems are more effective and you are able to control the heating and cooling more effectively.

________________________________
Where is Darwin when you need him?

[billeisele 130]

i know this is "old school" but i was making a point that his current system is under sized. ( i am a GC, used to build spec homes) yes, he should hire someone to do energy calcs (most people have no idea what a "heating day" is, what zone the are in, or what R and U factors are...i loved my thermodynamics classes. )on the house to determine the required heating and cooling....a required process here in california. if the addition was "permitted" i am surprised that this was not done. and yes, anytime you have 2 stories, or a spread out floorplan....split systems are more effective and you are able to control the heating and cooling more effectively.

[squirrel 0]

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my neighbor has the same size house, same number of people, same windows, etc., T-stat settings are similar and his bill is 40% higher than mine - the difference is in the HVAC system

that, could be a situation where the track builder simply skipped some insulation on that house...i have seen it happen, inspectors paid off at the coffee shop....never actually going to the site.

when i was building, i actually tried to throw some education into the mix( i have a degree in construction management )...going for energy efficiency, natural lighting, sound insulation, etc. but i had to keep it simple so the inspectors could understand the plans, and see how they exceeded code. hard to actually "move forward" in the building industry.

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Where is Darwin when you need him?

[billvon 2,998]

>My sybian and shockspot take up alot of energy.

Get a pedal powered generator. Make someone else pedal it.

[BillyVance 34]

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>My sybian and shockspot take up alot of energy.

Get a pedal powered generator. Make someone else pedal it.

Well she does have a slave....

"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

[popsjumper 2]

You guys are funny.

I have no electric bills.


But then, I live in a closet.

My reality and yours are quite different.
I think we're all Bozos on this bus.
Falcon5232, SCS8170, SCSA353, POPS9398, DS239

[squirrel 0]

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You guys are funny.

I have no electric bills.


But then, I live in a closet.

i miss living on my boat...no power bill (no meter on slip ), and cheap slip fee.

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Where is Darwin when you need him?

[Brains 2]

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Uhhh - 30 years old, yeah it is way past time. If the unit is that old then your annual bill will go down at least 50%, probably more!! You need to find a good HVAC guy and that is hard to do. Have the duct work inspected to determine if it is any good. If not, replace everything and install a new unit. I'm assuming you have a 1-story house. Another option is to install a ductless mini-split to serve the master suite, and then a new unit for the original house.

The most important thing is to have a heat gain/heat loss calculation done to determine the proper size unit. A unit that is too large will increase the bill. In your climate you need humidity control. On a 95+ degree day a properly sized unit will run constantly. That will remove the humidity, provide the best comfort and the lowest bill.

If you plan to live there 5 or more years then get a good unit. Not York, get a Trane. Buy as much efficiency as you can afford, electric rates are rising. At least a 15 SEER.

Your utility company may have a rebate and/or financing program, and they may know who the "good" dealers are. Do the research, this is a 15 year financial decision.


PM me your phone number if you want more info, too much to include here

I am an air conditioning contractor and I approve this message!

No, really I am.
Billeisele, i quoted you but am directing toward BV, you already know this stuff.
Also remember that the Feds are still offering up to $1500 in tax credits for qualifying new systems. 16 SEER and up with an EER of 13 and up for regular ac systems and 15 SEER with 12.5 EER and 8.5 HSPF or higher. If the person you are dealing with can't tell you what all that means, throw them out of your house.

Never look down on someone, unless they are going down on you.

[DJL 235]

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>My sybian and shockspot take up alot of energy.

Get a pedal powered generator. Make someone else pedal it.

I think you just discovered a perpetual motion device. The person pedals to power bane's sybian and if they slow down then they get shocked.

"I encourage all awesome dangerous behavior." - Jeffro Fincher

[MikeJD 0]

What, are you angling to get yourself on a Kinetic Energy billboard next?

"Here, I'm not just an electricity meter."

[billvon 2,998]

>The person pedals to power bane's sybian and if they slow down then
>they get shocked.

Only works if they don't enjoy getting shocked.

[Ketia0 0]

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What, are you angling to get yourself on a Kinetic Energy billboard next?

"Here, I'm not just an electricity meter."

ROFL!!!!!!!

OMG . thats soo funny!

"In this game you can't predict the future. You just have to play the odds. "-JohnMitchell