surfbum5412 0 #101 August 8, 2009 QuoteNever trust that they are gapped already, things happen. I compare them all side by side to make sure that during shipping they didn't get compressed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skybill 22 #102 August 8, 2009 QuoteQuoteNever trust that they are gapped already, things happen. I compare them all side by side to make sure that during shipping they didn't get compressed. Hi hang 10, Better yet, check the specs and get out your trusty feeler gauge, great for points, plugs and valve clearances. Got that clearance Clarence??SCR-2034, SCS-680 III%, Deli-out Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
futuredivot 0 #103 August 9, 2009 Roger, RogerYou are only as strong as the prey you devour Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marks 0 #104 August 10, 2009 QuoteQuote And that's just labor, the plugs are extra. Jeez! ridiculous. go to the dealership and get some plugs for your car. Mine come pre-measured when I buy them from the dealership specific to my car... so just pop them right in. ya, they "POP" right in!.. hahaha, you ever thought about selling cars? you would make a great salesman! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
surfbum5412 0 #105 August 10, 2009 QuoteQuoteQuote And that's just labor, the plugs are extra. Jeez! ridiculous. go to the dealership and get some plugs for your car. Mine come pre-measured when I buy them from the dealership specific to my car... so just pop them right in. ya, they "POP" right in!.. hahaha, you ever thought about selling cars? you would make a great salesman! Ok, since most of you are so ignorant to flame someone without really asking any questions: The car that I had was a 2001 ford focus hatchback. The plugs that I bought were pre-gapped for MY CAR at the dealership, and yes they were ready to go. I was told to just make sure none of them were compressed or looked irregular compared to the others. Everything looked great. On my car, the plugs are right in front; so yes, they are easily accessible and just PLOP right in you douche (Not the case with my old 4Runner -- that was a 2 hour job). Those plugs work great and my car runs great. Suck it biaaattcchhh :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marks2065 0 #106 August 10, 2009 Quote>Diesels can easily get about 20% better fuel milage by just adjusting the fuel control . . . Agreed. In diesels, the fuel control is the gas pedal. Take your foot off the gas pedal and your mileage will indeed increase. Or drive with a lead foot and waste fuel. Your choice. Quoteno you are not understanding, the diesel engines have the fuels systems timing adjusted so they connot get the best fuel milage to keep nox emissions down, has nothing to do with how you dive the car. the new diesels are computer controlled and a 40 mpg car could easily get 48 mpg if the car companies could just tune them that way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1888 0 #107 August 10, 2009 I have a Dodge diesel and it's up for 30k service which consists of changing trans. fluid, rear end, front end fluid for 4 WD, fluid for transfer case. Ist Dodge dealer - $600. They also said that I must change coolent although the owners manuel says not til 100K 2nd Dodge dlr - $450 they said I don't need coolent flushed. Jiffy Lube - $240 w/o coolent flush. Guess which one I will go to. Many places go by a "book rate" which is always inflated. I caught one charging me $125 labor to change a thermostat, which I could have done myself in 15 mins. I pointed this out to the manager with my hood up and a lot of people around and a loud voice. He readily made a big adjustment to the bill. I avoid Dealers unless it's a complicated issue & I also avoid those that charge the "book rate". Everyone is entitled to a profit but you have to really watch some guys. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marks2065 0 #108 August 10, 2009 Change the antifreeze. The dealer that said to change the antifreeze is the one I would trust since they know about the service buliten that overrides the schedual in the owners manual. The extended life antifreeze is having problems after 50000 miles and changing it early saves you alot down the road. the antifreeze is deteriorating and causing gaskets and seal to fail. or you could continue to go the the cheap place and pay more later. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kallend 2,026 #109 August 10, 2009 Quote Quote And that's just labor, the plugs are extra. Jeez![/reply Hi John, You're,"That Guy!!" The one in the radio add that paid someone $30 to put water in his winshield washer tank and replace his wiper blades!! Ditch your what ever and get an old 60's era Volkswagen Beetle or Van!! Also find a "How to keep your Volkswagen alive for the complete idiot!!" Manual by John Muir. Change the oil, adjust the valves, change the plugs, install and adjust the points, you'll be a "Bugwhiz" in no time!! I don't know what VW plugs go for these daze, last time I bought any for my VW the set was less than 5 bucks. The tire tool is also the plug wrench!! What, you don't know how to change a tire?? Roll up yer' sleeves and get greasy!! See post #32 and #88 of this thread.... The only sure way to survive a canopy collision is not to have one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kallend 2,026 #110 August 10, 2009 Quote>not to mention most of the anti pollution devices added to cars wind up making >most of the less fuel efficient. Fuel injection - increases efficiency Catalytic converter - does not reduce or increase efficiency (assuming it's not plugged etc.) Stochiometric combustion system (oxygen sensor/computer) - increases efficiency Vapor recovery system - increases efficiency Idle shutoff - increases efficiency Cylinder shutdown - increases efficiency CVCC/stratified charge system - increases efficiency EGR - increases efficiency Which anti pollution devices were you referring to? Just want to point out that I have owned cars with all of the above features except idle shutoff and cylinder shutdown, in which the plugs were readily accessible. You can't simply blame emission/economy control for putting spark plugs in inaccessible places.... The only sure way to survive a canopy collision is not to have one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marks 0 #111 August 10, 2009 Quote Change the antifreeze. The dealer that said to change the antifreeze is the one I would trust since they know about the service buliten that overrides the schedual in the owners manual. The extended life antifreeze is having problems after 50000 miles and changing it early saves you alot down the road. the antifreeze is deteriorating and causing gaskets and seal to fail. or you could continue to go the the cheap place and pay more later. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billvon 2,990 #112 August 10, 2009 >the diesel engines have the fuels systems timing adjusted so they connot get >the best fuel milage to keep nox emissions down, has nothing to do with how you >dive the car. Again, no. NOx is a fairly energetic compound; it takes energy to make it. Likewise, soot is basically unburned fuel; it wastes energy if you emit it. The most energy-efficient engine is one that burns its fuel completely (i.e. turns it all into energy) and does not waste energy producing energetic compounds. In other words, an engine whose only exhaust products are water and CO2. Diesel engines work best when you get the injection timing right. Too early and the very high temperatures generate a lot of NOx; this wastes energy and creates pollution. Too late and the cooler temperatures lead to incomplete burning and soot; this also wastes energy. Older (i.e. 10 years ago) diesels use a combination of injection timing (to optimize combustion temps) and high pressure common rail injection (to reduce soot) to maintain the optimum balance. ULSD/biodiesel fuel is making some changes possible. Modern diesels use advanced catalytic converters to break down NOX and soot; this gives a second level of protection against pollution, and allows a greater degree of freedom in choosing parameters like fuel injection timing. The Daimler/AG BlueTEC engine is one such example. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
warpedskydiver 0 #113 August 10, 2009 My father was a career diesel mechanic and they were able to get more power with less technology back then. The trick was knowing what to do. For the masses it was nearly impossible. He would mill the heads and up the compression. Large valves to breathe more. Larger turbo and blowers. The more air you forced in the better it was, the more you squeezed that air the more power you made. But you don't just have to believe me, get some of the Detroit manual from the 1970's, his name was in it. He went to school to freshen up his knowledge and instead wound up teaching. He also developed something that is common today, UV dye illuminated with a blacklight to find cracked heads and blocks. You should have seen the two engined earth mover doing smoky burnouts! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kallend 2,026 #114 August 10, 2009 Quote He also developed something that is common today, UV dye illuminated with a blacklight to find cracked heads and blocks. ! When was that?... The only sure way to survive a canopy collision is not to have one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SkyChimp 0 #115 August 11, 2009 I have a spark plug socket if you want to borrow it. Does anyone else find it funny that we made a SPORT out of an EMERGENCY PROCEDURE?!?! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kallend 2,026 #116 August 11, 2009 Quote I have a spark plug socket if you want to borrow it. Thanks, but I have all the tools I need, and a lot more besides.... The only sure way to survive a canopy collision is not to have one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marks2065 0 #117 August 12, 2009 Quote Quote I have a spark plug socket if you want to borrow it. Thanks, but I have all the tools I need, and a lot more besides. Quote tell us how it went when you get it done. I'm curious to see if you feel it is worth $300 after you do it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marks2065 0 #118 August 12, 2009 slightly wrong Bill. on diesel engines you get the best fuel mileage when the timing is adjust leaner, wich causes heat and higher nox. the same engine in germeny gets about 20% better fuel mileage because they less strict on the nox emission. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skycat 0 #119 August 12, 2009 QuoteQuoteQuoteI sold a guy a set of plugs last week for just over $2,000. Just the plugs in a box. Obviously not for a Toyota Tacoma like my vehicle. What were they for? At 2K per box . . . sounds like a set of Fine Wire Iridium Plugs. Probably for a Twin engine - With 6 cyl each and tw plugs per cyl. Well mine aren't quite that expensive but they are around $140 for 4, but you have to order them online cause no one carries them. This is for an RX8, but on the flip side it's really easy to get to them to replace.Fly it like you stole it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites