marks 0 #76 July 7, 2009 SOLD! by the way, there is no 4 cyl engine in a tarus. you also had a lot of "IFS" those "IFS" can not be determined until you have the head off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skymama 37 #77 July 7, 2009 Quote Also, read the fine print on the $3000 trade-in deal. Apparently the $3000 trade-in is only if you pay the MSRP. The dealer did offer $500 for the vehicle trade-in, but they still wouldn't come down on the price far enough so they've left the lot for now.She is Da Man, and you better not mess with Da Man, because she will lay some keepdown on you faster than, well, really fast. ~Billvon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thanatos340 1 #78 July 7, 2009 Edmunds.com is your friend. (Ignore KBB.com as they are a dealer tool (Lowball values on trades and High Values on Purchases). Do your research before going shopping, Know what you want and what Fair market value is for that vehicle. negotiate over the phone or via email. Dont let the dealer get you into playing dealer games. They are much better at it than you could ever be. Get your financing set up before you go shopping. Do not let a salesman ever discuss "Monthly payments" with you. That is between you and your bank and has no relevance to what you should be paying for the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jumpdude 0 #79 July 7, 2009 QuoteSOLD! by the way, there is no 4 cyl engine in a tarus. you also had a lot of "IFS" those "IFS" can not be determined until you have the head off. I know it's a V-6, I'm not the one that said it's a 4 Cyl.Refuse to Lose!!! Failure is NOT an option! 1800skyrideripoff.com Nashvilleskydiving.org Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MakeItHappen 15 #80 July 7, 2009 Quote Quote Also, read the fine print on the $3000 trade-in deal. Apparently the $3000 trade-in is only if you pay the MSRP. The dealer did offer $500 for the vehicle trade-in, but they still wouldn't come down on the price far enough so they've left the lot for now. That is why you should sell directly to a 'collector' or 'fixer-upper type'. You should also check the price you'd get from a salvage type lot. Parts alone are worth a lot more than $500. I sold a Mustang for about 3x what a dealer would have given me. It was not running because a 'bona fide' mechanic installed a timing chain wrong. AutoTrader.com is another good place to find cars. If you get someone to check out the car before you buy (if you don't know how to do that) you can get better (buying) deals. No dealer warranty and more paperwork, but you save a lot of money. Did I mention that you should never finance something that depreciates? Besides your son should be buying the car, not you. May I suggest a Nissan Frontier? c 2000 ish I've had three. The one I liked the best was the one (1998) totaled a few years ago by an old guy driving on the wrong side of the road. Prices from individual sellers were much lower than dealers (by thousands of dollars). I actually made $ from the insurance settlement and got a newer Frontier with less mileage. .. Make It Happen Parachute History DiveMaker Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marks 0 #81 July 7, 2009 QuoteMay I suggest a Nissan Frontier? c 2000 ish +1 that you model or any year model around that frontier are almost bulletproof. note: all the years I have been working on cars, I have worked at a nissan dealer for 95% of them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billeisele 130 #82 July 7, 2009 I'll make you a great deal on a 1999 Chrysler Concorde with only 80,000 gently driven miles, no body damage, original owner, everything works great except that the transmission is probably shot sure wish it qualified for the Clunker Car program Give one city to the thugs so they can all live together. I vote for Chicago where they have strict gun laws. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
turtlespeed 226 #83 July 7, 2009 QuoteBesides the battery (which was checked) what are the main reasons why one would have trouble getting a car to start? My son has started having trouble with his car, a '98 Taurus. It sounds like it's trying to turn over, then it does a little chug and stops. It will do that on a few trys but when he lets the engine sit a minute or so, it will finally start. Thoughts? I'm trying not to put a lot of money in this car since it is such a clunker, I'm just not ready to get him a new one yet so I'm hoping this is something cheap. Before reading the thread - I'm going to guess distributor cap . . . Now - scrolling . . .I'm not usually into the whole 3-way thing, but you got me a little excited with that. - Skymama BTR #1 / OTB^5 Official #2 / Hellfish #408 / VSCR #108/Tortuga/Orfun Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mx757 4 #84 July 8, 2009 Hyundai = Hope You Understand Nothings Driveable And Inexpensive Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sundevil777 102 #85 July 8, 2009 QuoteQuoteQuote Edit: My husband said that it turns over without catching, if that makes it any clearer! To me, that would rule out problems with battery/starter/alternator. And it would cause me to suspect a problem ignition system or fuel system. To me that might point to the starter/flywheel. If it turns over without catching, he could be refering to the starter not catching the flywheel. When a guy says that it turns over without catching, it means that the starter is turning over the engine at adequate speed, the not "catching" means it doesn't start. A starter not engaging with the flywheel is never described like that. To skymama, perhaps 3K off the MSRP is still a good deal, if the trade-in isn't worth much to sell normally.People are sick and tired of being told that ordinary and decent people are fed up in this country with being sick and tired. I’m certainly not, and I’m sick and tired of being told that I am Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrewEckhardt 0 #86 July 8, 2009 Quote To skymama, perhaps 3K off the MSRP is still a good deal, if the trade-in isn't worth much to sell normally. It's a horrible deal because MSRP means a new car. Disregarding interest costs you're likely to eat 30-40% of the value in depreciation in the first three years which is $6-$7K on a cheap car. A 20% value loss is possible with just driving off the lot. Until I've made my first five million and can be retired I'm sticking with 3-year old cars which can even be had in warrantied, factory-certified form since that helps the car makers dispose of 3-year old cars that spent time in their leasing departments. Driven into the ground for a decade plus. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
