Service engine soon

[cocheese 0]

That damn light went on last week. Never saw it go on ever in 1444,000 miles in my Chevy truck. Manual says it could be anything: New tires, bad gas, gas cap not on etc. WTF?

Well i tried everything. Was going to get a computer check today to see if they knew what the problem was. The light went out on the way there.
Ever have this problem?

[simplyputsi 0]

144,000 is what I assume you mean.

My answer is yes, and my first guess is you catalytic converter. Next time it comes on, most likely after you get gas, get it to advanced auto and have them pull the code. It's free from them. They tried to tell me I had a bad O2 sensor, but I went for a second opinion, but gave them that knowledge to use.

Good luck. Hope you don't have one of them gold plated converters like I did.

Skymama's #2 stalker -

[cocheese 0]

wups , Yea i meant 144,000.

My dad and his friends said they had the problem and even the dealership guys couldn't figure it out.

They told me to put a piece of black tape over it.

It was on for a week. Damn that stressed me out.

[bluepill 0]

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... 1444,000 miles in my Chevy truck.

Over a million miles in your truck, and the light just come on. Dude I think it should have come on about 900,000 miles back.

BP

[simplyputsi 0]

Well if it never comes back on i guess you are good.

If it does though, that would be my first suspect. Notice a difference in gas mileage lately?

Skymama's #2 stalker -

[cocheese 0]

Gas milage is the same. I think i may have put in too much transmission fluid, but that was a week before the light went on.

[bluepill 0]

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They told me to put a piece of black tape over it.

And don't forget to turn the Stereo up to drown out any unusual engine noises.
BP

[Icon134 0]

Yes actually I have... generally it comes on when the computer in the car recieves an unexpected value from one of the sensors throughout your car.

when I had it happen in my Mazda 6 months or so ago it turned out that the Air intake hose had cracked and was letting air in which through off the mass air flow sensor which also resulted in the engine running rough and occasionally stalling.

You can actually buy code readers to plug into the car and read the codes... of course you might need a chilton's manual (can be checked out of the local library) to interpret the code.

Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

[normiss 798]

No codes on the computer read?
they didn't read them right then...the codes should be listed "historically"

if I remember correctly my Chevy truck light was on for a bad 02 sensor....about the same mileage.

[cocheese 0]

no computer read yet. I didn't go to a mechanic yet.

Dz.com is my mechanic.

[quade 4]

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Hope you don't have one of them gold plated converters like I did.

Platinum actually. It's not a metaphor either. THAT is why they're so damned expensive.

quade -
The World's Most Boring Skydiver

[normiss 798]

The only good use for those chain piece of shit, crappy quality auto parts stores these days...free code readings!
Then but the replacement parts from a reputable parts store!


My local preference is Central Auto Parts...but they're local. NAPA nearby???
You can also "chip" the truck after you get her fixed. Elminates the 108mph engine cut off, increases performance....

[simplyputsi 0]

I know I know, I got out cheap buying an after market one for about half, but I am pretty sure in a year or so I'll have to replace it again, depending. Been told I should pony up for the OEM part. Will do next time.

Skymama's #2 stalker -

[turtlespeed 220]

The light came on to let you know that the light might be going out.

I'm not usually into the whole 3-way thing, but you got me a little excited with that. - Skymama
BTR #1 / OTB^5 Official #2 / Hellfish #408 / VSCR #108/Tortuga/Orfun

[jraf 0]

It's a Chevy, so:
1. Shut engine off.
2. Turn key to 2nd position - check lights on but engine not started.
3. Pump brake pedal 3 (three) times.

Magic...check engine light goes off!

jraf

Me Jungleman! Me have large Babalui.
Muff #3275

[simplyputsi 0]

Quote

It's a Chevy, so:
1. Shut engine off.
2. Turn key to 2nd position - check lights on but engine not started.
3. Pump brake pedal 3 (three) times.

Magic...check engine light goes off!

No no no your way way way off.

It's a Chevy so:
1. Why wouldn't the check engine light be on.


ba dum dum chhhh

Skymama's #2 stalker -

[LongWayToFall 0]

Nice trick! wonder which models it works for.

If the light went out, there is nothing you can do until it comes back on, so just keep driving it and when it does come back on, go to an auto parts store like mentioned before and have them scan it for you. I highly doubt it is your catalytic converter, the only thing it could do to make the engine run poorly is get clogged up, the only time you ever see people changing them is when they are trying to pass smog.

[JT3P 0]

Like some folks have said, go to a local auto parts, for me it's Auto Zone, where you can use their scanner for free and jot down the codes and Google them to find out what they mean and if it's an easy fix. I did that when my Tundra's engine light came on and found it was a massive emission leak. After Googling the code and reading what people had to say about it, I went out and put my gas cap on right and the light went out.

[Mayberry 0]

Check Engine light = Emissions.

Could be anything. Like others have said, go to somewhere that will check the code for free or get a buddy with a decent scan tool to check it out. It may say "No codes present" so they'll have to check "Pending codes", "History codes" or "Last failed" depending on what scanner they use. After so many key cycles the computer will turn the light off if it doesn't see the same conditions that originally set the code. Then take it from there. What's the year/make/model?? Any driveability issues??

Here's a nice little article to read in the meantime. Keep us posted!

Don

Here's to friends!

[AggieDave 6]

You know with my old Chevy before I sold it, the only thing I had a problem with was the O2 sensor. That was more due to the point that I put a aftermarket intake and welded up an aftermarket muffler without putting an aftermarket O2 sensor on. I did end up replacing the intake O2 but left the stock exhaust O2.

When one of those go out, you'll start loosing performance and mileage. Its not hard to change either. Actually, nothing on a Chevy truck is hard to fix. Well, that goes for just about every truck. Its those tiny-ass 6 cylinders in the imports that are clocked 90 degrees. Those are hard to work on, everything is bolted over something else and something else, so you have to spend 6hrs unbolting crap to get to what you wanted to fix.

--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

[kschilk 0]

Simplyputsi made a reasonable guess, at that mileage it's a possibility but you should notice a lack of power, on the hills. Check the exhaust, at the tailpipe. Ball-up a rag in your hand and plug the tailpipe, you should be able to tell if it's restricted...if it's an 8 (even most 6 cyls), you won't be able to hold back the pressure (after a few seconds of buildup).

Usually, the cat won't throw a code but it can cause the O2 sensor plenty of grief, making it send an out of limits signal to the EGR, which throws out its own code that will usually trump the O2 fault code. If the cat proves suspect, be careful about the replacement unit you choose. If your EGR is the "Positive" (marked with a "P") type, a cat that provides insufficient back-pressure will prevent the EGR from operating properly and will cause repeated EGR fault codes.

"T'was ever thus."

[DeNReN 0]

Sorry but that will only turn out the oil change light on most latemodel chevs....not the check engine light.(service engine soon)


entertaining thread though

[skydveraz 0]

What year Chevy? 96 or newer is an OBD2 system.
Simple pull the codes and it will tell you what is wrong like the gas cap isn't on or a cylinder misfire. It will store the codes for a certain number of vehicle restarts even if the light goes out. Code readers can be purchased at most auto parts stores.

If it is an older vehicle, you can short terminal A to B on the DTC with the key on and it will give you the code on the mil lite. (Check engine Light). Codes and what they mean can be found online. Also, a lot of parts stores will check it for free. Hope this helps!

Arizona only has two seasons, Hot and HOTTER!

[cocheese 0]

Thanks everyone for the tips. I think it's all good now.

It's a 2002 Silverado extended cab V8. I was coasting down a hill on a rainy day when it went on.

I thought it might be that i have too much transmisssion fluid or used the wrong kind a few weeks ago when i was topping it off.

The manual listed several reason why it can go on. It even suggests to try a different brand of fuel.

Anyway, the light is off and everthing is running fine.

[ACMESkydiver 0]

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The manual listed several reason why it can go on. It even suggests to try a different brand of fuel.

Anyway, the light is off and everthing is running fine.

Same thing just happened to us with Lil' Blue -2000 Ford Escort- (can you believe we have BOTH vehicles screwed up?!? ) Filled it with Premium unleaded like the manual said (HOLY HELL THAT WAS EXPENSIVE) and the light went out after running that through about 3/4 of a tank.

~Jaye
Do not believe that possibly you can escape the reward of your action.