ltdiver 3
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ltdiver 3
Quotegood coating will keep the heat down from the sun , and when they instal make shure around the windos get filled with spray foam so seal the cracks to cut air leaks.
Spray foam. Check. Thanks. Spell check?
ltdiver
Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon
ltdiver 3
Quotea few more things you can do. install a solar powered attic roof fan. and add some more insulation up in the attic. both fairly low cost.
Have an attic fan already. Insulation is old, but does it wear out over time? Bought the house and it already had spray insulation in the attic.
ltdiver
Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon
ltdiver 3
Quote
That inert gas thing is kind of a rip off. It does not really stay in there. You will be fine with the tightness compared to your old pains.
Thanks! Good to know. The project is expensive enough it's nice to know I dodged something not needed, and not practical either.
ltdiver
Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon
jimmytavino 16
it's wise to be careful with some of those cannister insulation spray products....
The do expand and fillllll ( think hansen helmet)...
but sometimes they can keep expanding....![[:/]](/uploads/emoticons/dry.png "[:/]"){kind=small}
between 2 solid pieces of timber or a wooden frame and the rough opening they work OK,, if you don't OVER load the cavity.. but between a rigid window rough opening,, and the VINYL extruded frame of the new windows,,,, that sort of foam can expand enough to literally distort the side frames and top frame.....
This could cause your windows to be tooo tight,,
and bind, when you're trying to open them.. The Vinyl side jambs WILL flex inward, if the foam keeps "growing".
Hopefully the measurements will be real close, and the vinyl will fit the remaining opening after the old windows are out. Then, a decent sealant such as acrylic latex caulk, available in many colors, can be used to seal out drafts... You could use whatever colors match,,,, inside and out...
I also believe those installations call for a least one bead of glue-sealer in the center of the sides and top. Often an adjustable finishing trim, takes care of any small size discrepancy, as well as the angle of the existing sill...
Just go easy on any "expanding" sealant- insulator....
jmy
ltdiver 3
Wow! Thanks!
Now I'm really thankful I hired a professional to install the windows for me. I had a co-worker who kept insisting I could do it on my own ("It's EASY to do", he said). I like the security that if anything wrong comes up I have a warranty to fall back on. Lifetime.
I've walked around and talked to some of my neighbors who have put in retrofit windows and all are happy with them (so far). Different manufacturers, different installers. Different size windows, etc. In fact, I have the largest windows on the block! My front window is 114" wide and my back window is 140" wide.
ltdiver
Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon
Now I'm really thankful I hired a professional to install the windows for me. I had a co-worker who kept insisting I could do it on my own ("It's EASY to do", he said). I like the security that if anything wrong comes up I have a warranty to fall back on. Lifetime.
I've walked around and talked to some of my neighbors who have put in retrofit windows and all are happy with them (so far). Different manufacturers, different installers. Different size windows, etc. In fact, I have the largest windows on the block! My front window is 114" wide and my back window is 140" wide.
ltdiver
Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon
squirrel 0
QuoteQuotea few more things you can do. install a solar powered attic roof fan. and add some more insulation up in the attic. both fairly low cost.
Have an attic fan already. Insulation is old, but does it wear out over time? Bought the house and it already had spray insulation in the attic.
ltdiver
no, the insulation does not wear out...but check the depth of it. the last house i built we up-ed the insulation value in the attic to R49, that required about 16" of insulation. you should have at least 8-10" of coverage.
________________________________
Where is Darwin when you need him?
philly51 0
The replacement windows should be made pretty tight. The sides, bottom and head can be caulked. The inert gas thing is really a ripoff, but the low "E" option is a winner. Cuts down the radiant heat from sunlight in the summer, but lets it pass through in the winter when the Sun's angle is lower.
The more insulation the better. You can check online for info for your area, but the norm is 12" minimum. Make sure you use unfaced batts over any existing insulation.
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, Shouting "...holy shit...what a ride!"
The more insulation the better. You can check online for info for your area, but the norm is 12" minimum. Make sure you use unfaced batts over any existing insulation.
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, Shouting "...holy shit...what a ride!"
ltdiver 3
QuoteMake sure you use unfaced batts over any existing insulation.
You mean, just place new insulation over the current stuff? I don't have to remove the old (blown) insulation?
ltdiver
Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon
Royd 0
Just know that there's usually a huge difference between a professional and an installer. The installer is all about getting the old window out and the new window in, back in the same hole with as little work as possible, and put as much money in his pocket as possible.QuoteNow I'm really thankful I hired a professional to install the windows for me. I had a co-worker who kept insisting I could do it on my own ("It's EASY to do", he said). I like the security that if anything wrong comes up I have a warranty to fall back on. Lifetime.
The professional will predrill holes, be sure everything is aligned, do a sharp looking caulk job and be able to deal with any trim situations.
Be careful. My life is spent fixing other people's crap.
I replaced all the windows in my dads house.
Went from iron casement, crank-out windows to double-hung, vinyl-coated.
With the old windows, you could put plastic sheet over the screens, tighten them down, clamp the lock down... and still see the curtains move. Also, metal frames conduct heat. You could feel heat/cold by touching the frame.
The difference with the vinyl windows was unbelievable.
When building my last house, the center ridge was 55ft long. I installed a "ridge vent". It allows heat to escape as it rises, without using electricity to run some type of fan.
I had a 4ft deck on the front with vented soffit that allowed cool air to rise and flow through the vent.
Huge difference.
Went from iron casement, crank-out windows to double-hung, vinyl-coated.
With the old windows, you could put plastic sheet over the screens, tighten them down, clamp the lock down... and still see the curtains move. Also, metal frames conduct heat. You could feel heat/cold by touching the frame.
The difference with the vinyl windows was unbelievable.
When building my last house, the center ridge was 55ft long. I installed a "ridge vent". It allows heat to escape as it rises, without using electricity to run some type of fan.
I had a 4ft deck on the front with vented soffit that allowed cool air to rise and flow through the vent.
Huge difference.
ltdiver 3
QuoteThe professional will predrill holes, be sure everything is aligned, do a sharp looking caulk job and be able to deal with any trim situations.
Thanks for the info! I believe the work will be done in about 3 weeks to a month, when the custom windows are made. Just placed the order 2 days ago.
ltdiver
Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon
ltdiver 3
QuoteThe difference with the vinyl windows was unbelievable.
That's what I was hoping to hear! Nothing like first hand testimony.
Summer shouldn't be so troublesome now...
ltdiver
Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon
azdiver 0
blow in insulation degrades and compacts down, it will lose its r value over time, blowing in more is usually a good idea. be sure to use a latex based spray foam, best for doors and windows.
light travels faster than sound, that's why some people appear to be bright until you hear them speak
philly51 0
Yes, just place it over the old insulation. Just be sure to use un faced batts.
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, Shouting "...holy shit...what a ride!"
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, Shouting "...holy shit...what a ride!"
billeisele 130
You mean, just place new insulation over the current stuff? I don't have to remove the old (blown) insulation?
ltdiver
ltdiver
HEY LT - i'm an energy guy and do energy renovations, this is my 2-cents, some may disagree but this is my experience
the goal is to prevent heat transfer in and out of the structure, the windows will make a difference, stopping the air in-leakage is another major goal, the foam between the frame and stud will do that, if you are adventurous, use the foam to seal all the holes that go from the bottom floor under the house (assuming a crawl space) and from the top floor in to the attic, just look for where wires and pipes come into the attic and there will be a hole, it is amazing how much heated and cooled air ($$) moves through a house via these holes
Insulation:
if the current insulation is blown insulation then just add more blown insulation, if the current is batts than you can add more batts or add blown,blown is less expensive and works great, make sure - very important - that the vents in the soffits do not get blocked with insulation, or that the vented area that connects the soffits and the attic are not blocked
if adding batts use unfaced insulation and install them at 90 degrees to the existing batts, if the existing batts are higher then the ceiling joists (they should be)
recommend at least a total of R-30, but I'd go to R-38, the cost difference is minimal, good payback
Windows:
if the contractor is removing the old sash (the parts that go up and down) and leaving the old frame (this is the normal process for vinyl replacement windows), then the part that needs the foam is not visible, you have to remove the molding or trim that is around the old frame, this most likely is not in his contract, the gap between the frame and the studs of the house is the area that needs foam, the is a real pain to do but definitely worth it, get the foam for windows and doors, it has a much lower expansion ratio than the other stuff, do this after the vinyl windows are installed otherwise you may bow the frames and the vinyl windows won't fit, until you get real good with this stuff get some plastic gloves and don't get this on anything, it is real sticky, clean it immediately or let it dry then remove it, insert the nozzle as far as possible and go slow, you do not have to fill the whole space, the foam will expand 2-3 times, the goal is to bridge the gap between the stud and the window frame to stop air leakage, if you add too much (very easy to do) just wait a few hours or the next day until it is completely hard (the inside stays soft for a long time, then use a sharp knife to remove the excess
PM me if you need more help, i've done this a few times and can probably save you some trouble
Give one city to the thugs so they can all live together. I vote for Chicago where they have strict gun laws.
ltdiver 3
So....
Finally got the new windows installed today! Yippee!
It's already amazing, the warmth kept inside my house tonight. I usually have to wrap up in a light blanket while watching tv, or sitting in the living room. There's usually a palpable coolness coming through the window there.
But not tonight! It's really amazing.
And to top it off, the windows facing the west (where my house gets most of the heat in the late afternoon, making summertime unbearable inside without air conditioning) didn't even get warm!
Oh, I think we're gonna like this!
Thanks everyone for your words of wisdom. So far, this is a recommendation for anyone else considering this upgrade.
ltdiver
Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon
billeisele 130
looking good, windows are nice too
but what is up with those funky horizontal grids, must be a left coast thing, our grids are vertical but i opted for the no grid look
Give one city to the thugs so they can all live together. I vote for Chicago where they have strict gun laws.
ltdiver 3
Quotelooking good, windows are nice too
but what is up with those funky horizontal grids, must be a left coast thing, our grids are vertical but i opted for the no grid look
Your windows look nice, too.
I opted for the grid look to give it some 'style'. I'm sure the salesman was going bald each time I came in because I kept changing the look of the windows. I decided on this look because it kinda looks like 'shutters' on either side of my large windows. Dunno if it worked, but I like it.
ltdiver
Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon
ltdiver
Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon
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