Twoply 0 #1 March 5, 2007 Which sheeting is the standard anymore for building countertops? I've used high density particle board in the past, but whats the deal with the brown mdf stuff? Looks like more of a fiberous paper rather than finely milled wood. Whats that used for? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillyVance 34 #2 March 5, 2007 I seem to like it. It's smooth and it doesn't flex as much. I have it as my workshop surface and I use it for shelving in the closet."Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KevinMcGuire 0 #3 March 5, 2007 Any body out there have any experience with concrete counter tops? A friend recommended that I try them out. Any thoughts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowwhite 0 #4 March 5, 2007 I have a client who has a beautiful table top that was made for her. It's gorgeous, well finished and cleans easily.skydiveTaylorville.org freefallbeth@yahoo.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monkycndo 0 #5 March 5, 2007 They can be beautiful. But are very heavy and can require special reinforcing of the cabinet frames. They are not for the novice to try. If you don't get the reinforcing in the concrete in the right locations, you will get cracks. Get references and check out their work.50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jm951 0 #6 March 5, 2007 mdf is pretty much normal these days. Plywood doesn't bond as well to the venier with contact cement plus mdf is less prone to chipping and splinters. Mdf is a problem in moisture contact areas. Make sure the sink are is well sealed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dmddave 0 #8 March 6, 2007 It all depends on what your counter top finish is made of. Stay away from Particle board, or Luan. For any moisture sensitive area's, Exposure 1, C grade, unsanded plywood is best. For tile or stone underlayment use 2 layers of 3/4" ply, staggered joints with cement backer board, H20 proof membrane or Ditra Mat on top. Concrete tops are job specific and require their own set of condiditons. We've installed cabinets and/or a variety of tops in 250-300 kitchens in the last 15 years. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VectorBoy 0 #9 March 6, 2007 QuoteAny body out there have any experience with concrete counter tops? A friend recommended that I try them out. Any thoughts? I built one and plan to build more. You are exchanging the value of your personal time( cheap materials, labor intensive ) compared to paying someone to quarry natural stone, mill and polish it and install. Check out the concrete exchange .com for resources. PM if you have questions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark24688m 0 #10 March 6, 2007 Im assuming you guys are talking about corian? I used to work in a custom cabinet shop here in nj and i worked with it a little bit. Its really nice stuff and becoming very popular. Its actually more per square foot than granite. Cool stuff though really expensive. http://www.corian.com/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VectorBoy 0 #11 March 6, 2007 QuoteIm assuming you guys are talking about corian? I used to work in a custom cabinet shop here in nj and i worked with it a little bit. Its really nice stuff and becoming very popular. Its actually more per square foot than granite. Cool stuff though really expensive. http://www.corian.com/ Corian is a resin that is thicker than formica. Ten years ago it was the shit. It was a sought after alternative to marble in solid surface tops. It was in high demand that out stripped production. The truth is that it is an easy to mill "plastic" that most wood workers could do easily. But its a protective industry so unless you are in you can't get in. This has caused the " betamax" syndrome to take effect on its popularity .BTW it looks like plastic. When I say concrete thats what it is really. A sack mix that you mix and pour into a mold with reinforcement and ten days later get out and polish and install. You can pour it in place too if you want a different look. But either way its not side walk. Its colored its polished if you want. But its random and you can shape it and mold it like you can't do with any solid surface material. And now there are many more choices in a solid counter surface than just granite/ corian. There is every quarryable stone imaginable that can be "slabbed" and milled/ sealed and installed. You can get quartz/resin or recycled glass and resin slabs to get made into solid surface tops now. Most of these matrix require the same tools that the marble and granite trade use in fabrication, diamonds, while corian can be worked with standard carbide tools. Concrete does not need tools for shaping. The mold does this or it is done by hand in the case of pour in place. Tools are only for polishing if desired and they will be the same as required for stone work, diamonds. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KevinMcGuire 0 #12 March 6, 2007 Lots of great info. I'll keep checking to see if anyone else has any more info to offer. Thanks everyone Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VectorBoy 0 #13 March 6, 2007 I have also had success using encounter by brickform. You can check them at brickform.com. This company deals mostly with stamped and colored concrete like driveways and patios but have started to get into countertop products. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Katzeye 0 #14 March 6, 2007 OK, countertop gurus. I want to rip out our old laminate tops and put down ceramic tile... and I'm sceeered. What kind of backerboard do I use? Plywood? Do I measure it right to the edge of the cabinets or over the front? I want to use bull-nose tiles on all the edges... Is a chicken omelette redundant? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillyVance 34 #15 March 6, 2007 QuoteOK, countertop gurus. I want to rip out our old laminate tops and put down ceramic tile... and I'm sceeered. What kind of backerboard do I use? Plywood? Do I measure it right to the edge of the cabinets or over the front? I want to use bull-nose tiles on all the edges... Not sure about the measurements, but you can easily fuck it up if you are not sure what to do. My father in law did that kind of work on his kitchen counter. The result wasn't pleasing. The counter bowed from one end to the other, and the grout shrank and sunk after it dried up. He has done tile before and helped me do my bathroom, which turned out great, so I was surprised at his work in his kitchen."Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VectorBoy 0 #16 March 6, 2007 What kind of backerboard do I use? Plywood? Do I measure it right to the edge of the cabinets or over the front? I want to use bull-nose tiles on all the edges... For ceramic they install wood slats directly to the cabinet tops. They are several inches wide and leave gaps of just under an inch between them. This is covered by water proof paper and a stiff inch think sand/concrete mix is applied over that. It fits the entire cabinet top surface and has metal edging that holds the pour flush with the edge of the cabinets. The ceramic tiles are applied over this. This is the production version. You may be able to use a few layers of plywood covered by a few layers of cement board instead of the grout bed method. But I would check with the home improvement centers in your area. They can give you the list of materials and "how to" videos and tips on the best method of construction for your area. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
