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Courteney

Correct packing for a Stiletto

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Howzit, I was just wondering if anyone could give me a few tips on the correct/safe packing of a Stiletto 150. I have almost 100 jumps on it and it was second hand when I bought it. I usually get a good soft opening on it if someone else packs it but when I try I get either a snivel that last's a 1000' or a hard opening. I've been shown a few times how to pack it but I only get a 60% success rate. Any ideas out there. Much appreciated, Courteney.[email]courteneylouw@hotmail.com
...drags me down like some sweet gravity!!!

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*Stow Brakes
*Run out the lines
*Snap tail out really good by holding the nine cells
*Tuck nose in ever so lightly
*Pull the tail over and wrap tightly
*Throw it in the bag
Approx 10 minutes;)

Just kidding although that is how I pack my Stiletto. To my opinion the openings are very forgiving. I have noticed my openings are worse when I pack it very neatly. The so called "Trash Pack" provides good results for me. When you snap the tail out by holding the nose it clears all your lines except the D lines.

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I packed for a guy this weekend who had a 120 stiletto i think...im not sure if its the right sq. ft but it was a stiletto. All i did was a normal propack and insted of just shoving the nose back i rolled the top 4 cells and the bottom 4 cells and tucked them into the 5th then shoved the nose back, set it down and bagged it like normal. He said it opened great so thats what i do. On a side note line twists are bad on thoses things so becarefull
;)

He who makes a beast of himself gets rid of the pain of being a man

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I basically trash pack it too. Although I am very careful to get the slider quartered and I have my own method to putting it into the bag which is hard to explain, but is a variation on a s-fold with some rolling involved. With a simple trash pack, though, I've had nothing be schweet openings. :)
--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

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Good point on the slider Dave. Make sure it is squared away and fully decollapsed.

In general though packing questions should be directed to your rigger or senior packer at the DZ. It is hard without demonstration to teach how to pack.B|

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Quote

All i did was a normal propack and insted of just shoving the nose back i rolled the top 4 cells and the bottom 4 cells and tucked them into the 5th then shoved the nose back, set it down and bagged it like normal. He said it opened great so thats what i do.
;)



Generally that's not such a great idea. See the thread over in the Gear and Rigging about the guy who found his canopy coming apart after packing exactly the way you just described. Packing that way puts too much stress on the center cell.

-
Jim
"Like" - The modern day comma
Good bye, my friends. You are missed.

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DONT ROLL ANYTHING EXCEPT THE TAIL!! and don't over do that. Make sure the slider is nice and quartered and I like to pull it out as much as I can over the nose. Keep everything very even and flake the tail neatly. Push the nose in but don't over do it. Make sure that the tail wrap is covering the slider when the bag gets closed. Pretty much a semi neat standard pro pack. I almost cut mine away yesterday and I think it was because I rolled the tail a little too much. I can't think of any other reason the risers would have been so uneven on deployment. It's never spun on me that fast before. Just get some instruction from a "qualified" person at the DZ and then practice. It took me probably 20 jumps to get it right. As I saw yesterday I'm still very much able to make mistakes...B|

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Here's how I pack my stiletto.

1)Stow brakes
2)Uncollapse slider
3)run up lines
4)flake nose, put between knees.
5)flake inner cells
6)pull extra fabric of stabilzer to outside.
7)wrap tail
8)minimal roll on the tail, just enough to control it as I lay it down.
9)no rolls in the nose.
10)do NOT stuff the nose to the back. Just let it hang.
11)s-fold, bag it, done.

It's currently taking me about 10 minutes.

_Am
__

You put the fun in "funnel" - craichead.

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To the rest of this I would like to add:
PD did not recommend rolling the nose when I talked to a rep from there . The unfurling of the nose when rolled puts stress on the center cell, and, if rolled unevenly, may cause a spin. Also, some packers recommend stow lengths of a couple of inches or so (quite short). This works for me.

Lastly, make sure that there is ample line between the last stow and the bumpers, which will depend upon the riser length you are using (usually less than 18 inches). This is so there is no tension upon the risers when the bag goes in the tray. Tightness in this area can cause irregular line release with the result of a hard, line twist, or off-heading openings.

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Hopefully, but you can never be too sure.

I'd hate to see someone pack their brand new stiletto that way and have to cut it away. That would suck.

-
Jim
"Like" - The modern day comma
Good bye, my friends. You are missed.

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Hey, don't forget that before you put the bag into the container you need to hold it by the bridle and give it a good spin. That gives you the schweetest openings when jumping an elliptical, I promise! :P
--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

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I packed the neatest, most perfect looking pro-pack ever last Thursday on my Stiletto 150 - which has rocked me 3 of the last 30 openings. It opened so hard, I snapped a steering line and almost passed out. I have 2 huge bruises from the legstraps. I was running for the lighter fluid and a match when I landed.

My rigger put a slider the size of a bedsheet on it. Opens fine now. Friggin canopy.
- Harvey, BASE 1232
TAN-I, IAD-I, S&TA

BLiNC Magazine Team Member

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