theonlyski 8 #26 January 23, 2013 Quote ..yes! I'm looking forward to manhandle a Sigma 340! A good way to do it is to plan out your stitching and sort of rotate the work so that it can be unrotated as you stitch. It helps keep all of the rest of the fabric from causing a pain in the ass as you try to move it around the table. Also, use some packing weights to hold the material that's on the table but not getting sewn. Much easier to sew if you're not having the material being pulled away from the machine and off the table."I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gowlerk 2,249 #27 January 23, 2013 It should be able to handle E thread. Even light duty domestic machines can. What size needle are you using? If it won't sew E thread it's set up wrong. Try getting the tension right and at least a size 18 needle. (although 16s will work in very light applications) KenAlways remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lilchief 1 #28 January 23, 2013 Thanks for the tip! However, we had a service mechanic overhauling the machine and he stated that the E-thread was to heavy for it. We are therefore using a 5/6 or 3-cord thread. But since we don't have E-thread we're not using it and planning on selling it in favor for a machine that handles E-thread. If I'm not mistaken, E-thread is mil.spec, right? and the civilian counterpart is commercial #69 thread?"Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return." - Da Vinci www.lilchief.no Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #29 January 23, 2013 Quote If I'm not mistaken, E-thread is mil.spec, right? and the civilian counterpart is commercial #69 thread? Yes"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,436 #30 January 24, 2013 Hi Robert, Quote A good way to do it is to plan out your stitching and sort of rotate the work so that it can be unrotated as you stitch. It helps keep all of the rest of the fabric from causing a pain in the ass as you try to move it around the table. Good advice, I would add to go very slow; it is when you just 'have to' get it finished is when you sew through a couple of wrong layers. BTDT Just stay ahead of the fabric. JerryBaumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gowlerk 2,249 #31 January 24, 2013 Like all light garment sewing machines, E or 69, or TEX 70 nylon bonded thread is at the outside of the range for the system. But within the range. Most people with this type of machine use a 20u. Which any competent mechanic will tell you is not designed for E thread either. However, if set up properly it will be fine. If it will take a size 18 needle, it will sew E thread. Mechs don't like this because in their normal work, that size of thread is usually called upholstery thread and is mostly used in heavier walking foot machines. But even Jerry pulls E thread in his domestic Singer 401. I have sold dozens of small domestic sewing machines. I have yet to see one that won't sew E thread. That Pfaff is a good machine, but sell it if you must. How much? Ken Edited to say that I see you are a long way from me. (Canada- Norway) I don't think I'll be buying your Pfaff! Since you were asking for model options for a combo straight stitch and ZZ machine. Many people start with one of the Singer or other brand 20U machines. I like mine, but it's a compromise. It's a lot like a Pfaff 118!Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,436 #32 January 24, 2013 Hi chief, QuoteHow do you distribute all the fabric without it clogging up under the arm? I believe that Terry has solved your problem: http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=4431416;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread JerryBaumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lilchief 1 #33 January 24, 2013 hehe...the shipping may be more then the machine =P How can I set it up for E-thread other then changing the needle? Are there any parts I can change og re-arange? I really like it and it is in good condition..would be a shame to sell it... =/"Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return." - Da Vinci www.lilchief.no Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lilchief 1 #34 January 24, 2013 hehe...those machines are just porn! I had my way with one at a boat cover manufacturer this spring. it was...awesome.. :D But even used they're like $12k, but I'm dreaming ;) I've had a couple of times where I had to plan how to distribute the suits in order to make it a smooth job. But I'm still amazed that several of you are holding up with "regular" machines. I've got tons to learn! :D"Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return." - Da Vinci www.lilchief.no Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
councilman24 37 #35 January 24, 2013 I had one mechanic tell me the distance of the hook to the needle needed to be changed but that one I'm not sure about. I did wear out at least two hooks on heavy duty home machines like Neechi and viking. Also remember the thread has to go around the bobbin. I believe there was an adjustment there to give it more room. The biggest thing though is at least an 18 needle. 19 or 20 if it will take it. And work with the tensions. The tensions, especially the bobbin, have been screwed up on every used machine I've bought. Surprised to see so many 31-15's in use. Maybe I won't sell mine that I got for $75.I'm old for my age. Terry Urban D-8631 FAA DPRE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deyan 36 #36 January 24, 2013 Quote Hi Robert, Quote A good way to do it is to plan out your stitching and sort of rotate the work so that it can be unrotated as you stitch. It helps keep all of the rest of the fabric from causing a pain in the ass as you try to move it around the table. Good advice, I would add to go very slow; it is when you just 'have to' get it finished is when you sew through a couple of wrong layers. BTDT Just stay ahead of the fabric. JerryBaumchen All of the above + I use clamps to keep what I don't need away from the presser foot. But the most useful trick I saw is having a big table around the sewing machine. The one I saw was something like 3-4 sq. meters."My belief is that once the doctor whacks you on the butt, all guarantees are off" Jerry Baumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrigger1 2 #37 January 28, 2013 Quote Practically for rigging work there are only three common types. Ken, There are actually four standard types that we use. 1. Drop feed (which you guys are calling bottom feed) 2.Needle feed (which you have already described) Needle and feed dog work together, Presser foot stays in place 3.Compound Feed This is again like you described with an inner foot and outer presser foot. The inner foot travels with the feed dog, but the needle bar stays in place. An example would be a Singer 7-33 or Consew 733 Harness machine. 4. Triple Feed Compound - This is a Compound Feed plus Needle Feed. An example is a Consew 206 RB. Cheers, MELSkyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonathan.newman 1 #38 January 28, 2013 Hey 'ski, I just got a Sailrite LSZ-1, and after the first day of sewing great, it started skipping stiches and shredding thread. I followed the troubleshooting steps (change needle, increase pressure foot tension, etc) until I got to adjusting the hook position. My second day of sewing, and I had to get in the guts and adjust the hook position. But it works great now. It's not a hard adjustment to make. One screw, I think. One thing I don't like about it is that the stitch length adjuster has no real markings for forward/backward/zero. You just have to figure it out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #39 January 28, 2013 QuoteHey 'ski, I just got a Sailrite LSZ-1, and after the first day of sewing great, it started skipping stiches and shredding thread. I followed the troubleshooting steps (change needle, increase pressure foot tension, etc) until I got to adjusting the hook position. My second day of sewing, and I had to get in the guts and adjust the hook position. But it works great now. It's not a hard adjustment to make. One screw, I think. One thing I don't like about it is that the stitch length adjuster has no real markings for forward/backward/zero. You just have to figure it out. Mine started doing that as well, I've narrowed it down to probably timing and possibly needle bar depth, I think one of the metal pieces broke and just haven't gotten around to trying to order it."I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
