Maki 0 #1 October 23, 2009 Hi, i'm jumping a Sabre 150 but the openings are not as soft as i would like. I know its a characteristic of the canopy, but how could i manage to soften the opening while packing? Thank you and greetings Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
likestojump 3 #2 October 23, 2009 locate the search box type "sabre soft openings" click go read locate the search box type "sabre soft openings" click go read locate the search box type "sabre hard openings" click go read This topic has been discussed a lot and there are a lot of tips. My personal preference is a larger pocketed or domes slider. Those are discussed in those threads as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jbag 0 #3 October 23, 2009 this question has never been discussed, ever!!!!!but from whawt i understand you are fuckd and that canopy will never ever ever open soft :PIHYD Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RMURRAY 1 #4 October 23, 2009 dome slider from skyworks rigging works fantastic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ronaldo 0 #5 October 23, 2009 Depending on canopy characteristics and line trim I don't think there is a packing method that will solve the problem. If you are willing to spend around $150 and intend to keep the canopy for a while I suggest the H-mod. It will improve performance and slow down openings as side effect. Skyworks does that also.Engineering Law #5: The most vital dimension on any plan drawing stands the most chance of being omitted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jbh186 0 #6 October 24, 2009 My Sabre's a little bigger with an oversized slider. It used to open pretty hard, and made me see stars a couple times, but, once I started rolling the hell out of the nose after flaking the cells, it started opening like a dream. I'm usually waiting for the slider to come down the lines. You're not as f'd as some on here would lead you to believe. Just my 2 cents. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
idodsick 0 #7 October 24, 2009 you could always buy a new canopy, that would help.the diamond can not be polished without friction, nor a man perfected without trials. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jumpwally 0 #8 October 24, 2009 Yep,,i hear the Pulse is awesome.... smile, be nice, enjoy life FB # - 1083 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shropshire 0 #9 October 24, 2009 I KNOW that it's been asked loads of times but Telling someone to Search is so fucking lame ..... If you have the answer, give or STFU.So here goes...... I also jump a Sabre 1 150 and my rigger (bless her, star that she is) told me to take care of the slider (just a standard one ... nothing fancy). 1/4 it and ensure that it stays up against the stops when packing. That's it .. I dont mess around with the nose or owt like that. Just look after the slider. (.)Y(.) Chivalry is not dead; it only sleeps for want of work to do. - Jerome K Jerome Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VideoFly 0 #10 October 24, 2009 I’ve owned a Sabre 170, 150, and 135. I found that the higher the wing loading, the harder the openings. My 170 was brisk and soft; my 150 was fast, but soft; and my 135 hurt. I’ve known people to use larger sliders or pockets on the sliders with some success. However, I was fine with the right sized canopy and meticulous packing with lots of nose rolling, pushed in before closing, and a well-quartered slider. From my experience, the Sabre I is an excellent square canopy. Also, have your line set checked. Right-sized lines are important. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SkyjunkySean 0 #11 October 24, 2009 You CAN make it open softer ! The majority of my jumps are on sabre 1s. Yes I got wacked once HARD. After that I learned hown to pack it. If you don't want to buy a bigger slider this is what you do. (dome sliders work nominal at best). This is for PRO packing. psycho packed it once, not such a great idea. Trash packing a sabre will get you whacked for sure. Flake the canopy as you normally would. but be meticulous about it. When quartering the slider, make sure it is not wadded up at all (you will pull the slider out over he nose a lot after you roll the nose anyway). After you have pulled the tail up, and have a grip on it. ROLL THE NOSE TIGHT. I roll mine at least 8 times, or until the labels on the stabs are touching, or halfway rolled up as well. push the nose ALL the way to the tail. ALL THE WAY !.Pull the slider out as far as you can, without pulling it all the way out. Roll the tail tightly. I swear when you do this you'll be thinking "lineover" but it works. When pushing the air out, make sure none of your handywork comes undone. (this is tha hardest part) make the smallest coccoon out of that thing as you possibly can. I actually have a 1/4 inch extra fabric on either side of the bag when it is finally in. Stow the lines with about an inch and a half loops. make sure your loops are neat (tension knots) I use medium bands for the first two grommets then small ones for the rest. Line dump on a Sabre sucks ass !. I am sure someone will pipe in here, but I am gettin 800 ft. snivels on my sabre1 170 loaded at 1.3 with about 60% on heading openings. basically pack it like you never want it to open. It takes practice. Lots. Or you could cut loose with the cash, and by a pilot 150 and really enjoy life Thats what I am gonna do Just my 2 cents Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SkyjunkySean 0 #12 October 24, 2009 Or BUY a pilot even. where the fuck is spellcheck when ya need it ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
3331 137 #13 October 24, 2009 I jumped a Saber 150 for two years, tried different packing methods and two types of sliders finally sold it for a few dollars. My advice is get rid of it. I Jumped with the guys who invented Skydiving. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trumanjsparks 0 #14 October 24, 2009 I have roughly 2,000 jumps on an 'original' Sabre 150, never had a bad opening PM me if you'd like. Broken hearts and dirty windows make it difficult to see. That's why last night and this morning always look the same to me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davelepka 4 #15 October 24, 2009 The first thing you should do is check the line trim. The microline on your canopy actually shrinks over time, and when the lines shrink at different rates it effects the way your canopy flies and opens. You can get a line trim chart from PD, and if they're too far off, you may want to get a reline. Contrary to popular belief, not every Sabre opened hard, and when the lines are in trim, more of them opened nicely than not. A reline is probably $225-ish. Another thing you can do is get a bigger slider. If you add a couple of inches to the chord (front to back) measurement of your slider, that should help to slow down the openings. A new slider is about $100. The best bet is to get a reline, and upsize the slider at the same time. However, if you really want to fix it cheap, you can have your steering lines adjusted. The first thing to do is determine the correct overall length for your steering lines- Under canopy, brakes unstowed and toggles all the way up, you should see slack in your steering lines. There should be enough that the wind blows is back, and the line is bowed in that direction. You should be able to stall the canopy, but only when your toggles are all the way down, and you hold them there for a few seconds. If there is no slack, or you cannot stall your canopy, then add or subtract to the lower steering line as needed. Once you have the overall length, have your rigger build you new steering lines from the cascade down. Have him place the fingertrap (where you stow your brakes) 2 inches lower then it was. The overall length should remain the same, but the fingertrap is now lower down the line. This will ease up on the brake setting during deployment, and slow the opening. Costs will vary from rigger to rigger, but the whoel deal should be under $50. I have done all of the above seperately and together on a Sabre 135, 107, and Stiletto 107 (twice). They all work pretty well, and should all be done under the supervision of a rigger. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martini 0 #16 October 25, 2009 Yep, those old Sabres are really shitty. You should get rid of yours fast and cheap. I'll help you out and give you a hundred bucks for your Sabre. Then I'll have five of 'em. Seriously, do a search. More info there than you are even ready for.Sometimes you eat the bear.............. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sangi 0 #17 October 25, 2009 Buy a Safire2 and you won't look back."Dream as you'll live forever, live as you'll die today." James Dean Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NVizABull 0 #18 October 25, 2009 you obviously don't have one and don't understand that they are a fine canopy and just need to be "caressed" during packing. i have two sabres and the only hard opening i've had was when a patch that was already on it when i bought it blew. i get 700-1000 ft openings and enjoy my canopies. all these people that complain about the original sabres and don't have one are the same people that have plenty to say about the dolphin rigs being inferior...and i have two dolphin rigs, as well and enjoy them. roll the nose, place it properly in the middle, quarter your slider and bag it. by the way, i don't have the oversized or pocket sliders on either canopy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hackish 8 #19 October 26, 2009 Talk to peek. I've jumped a Sabre 150 with a custom larger slider he built. Opened beautifully the few jumps I did on it and it was known to be a smacker. Another point is that I've heard lots of advice around the DZs and seldom does that advice reflect the words written in the PD manual. Read that first. Sooo many people are showing how far they tuck the nose in the centre of the packjob telling how nice it made their openings. -Michael Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbiceps 0 #20 October 26, 2009 i had the same problem mate. get a rigger to make u a new slider that measures 33x 30 inches and your problems will be solved. i pack my canopy in no time and dont touch the nose at all and with the bigger slider it opens like a dream every time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
verticalflier 0 #21 October 26, 2009 QuoteHi, i'm jumping a Sabre 150 but the openings are not as soft as i would like. I know its a characteristic of the canopy, but how could i manage to soften the opening while packing? Thank you and greetings SIMPLE, buy a PILOT :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dorbie 0 #22 October 26, 2009 Quote I jumped a Saber 150 for two years, tried different packing methods and two types of sliders finally sold it for a few dollars. My advice is get rid of it. But you sold it to him!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikecm469 1 #23 October 31, 2009 This is what we do on my brother's 170. Once we've flaked canopy we take the outer 4 cells on each side and roll them and stuff them into the center cell. We also make sure the slider is all the way up. I may be crazy, but I'm not stupid! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
airnutt 11 #24 November 2, 2009 these are all good advice and if i may ad try relinig with 550 spectre line or dacron line as well as a bigger slider. thicker lines help absorb shockload Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sletzer 3 #25 November 2, 2009 I've got a pocket slider mod and it usually opens fine. I've been whacked twice in 125 jumps, but both times it's because I packed quickly and didn't control the slider. I think if the slider is seated well, you should be fine. That being said, when you do get popped, ouch!I will be kissing hands and shaking babies all afternoon. Thanks for all your support! *bows* SCS #8251 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
