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Spatula

Car Negotiations

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Hey everyone! Well I'm ready to go car shopping. I'm after a 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Anyone have any advice for dealing with car dealers? I have all the research ready...invoice, incentives, etc...just not sure how to negotiate the best deal. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!

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Sweet Ride. I got the 2000 model and still love it.

Here's my experience when i bought mine. Go to carsdirect.com and get a pricing for all the options you want. Then print it out and take it with you to your local dealer. When they look at the price and laugh at you, walk away, say "FU" to them, and go place the order online from carsdirect.com. Two weeks later I got a call from them saying my JEEP (with ALL my options and color) was found about 50 miles away and I could go pick it up.

I did and got my JEEP for $1000 below what the dealer paid for it from the factory. Although don't buy the extended warranty from a 3rd party. When you go to the dealer to pick up your car, ask about the extended warranty there and buy it from them.

Butthead: Whoa! Burritos for breakfast!
Beavis: Yeah! Yeah! Cool!
bellyflier on the dz.com hybrid record jump

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First of all you need to be a hardass, and be prepared to walk away. You need to remember that these guys really want to sell you a car.

Don't let them know that what you really want is the jeep. That way you can say "hey, I'll go up the road and buy a (insert car name here)."

Do a lot of shopping, don't jump into buying something your first day out.

If you have a trade in, don't let them know about it untill the end, after you negotiate your best price. If your current car is paid for, you may be better off selling it outright.

Don't buy options from the dealer that you can get cheaper on the street. Those rims and super stereo may look nice right now, but think what you'll save by going elsewhere to buy them. Dealer options are usually really expensive.

Take a look at the extended warranty and then do the math. It is usually more cost effective to save that extra money every month, and if nothing ever goes wrong, it's money in your pocket, not theirs.

But gap insurance, if it gets totalled, you'll be sorry you don't have it.

Take the test vehicles for a good long ride, some places allow 24 hours. You don't wanna be stuck with something that isn't quite "you". Ty and get the saleman out of it, so you can drive it how you want to.

BE A HARDASS!!! Car salesmen will try to railroad you. It's OK to stop at anytime. You are buying a car, they are not selling it to you.
Play stupid games, win stupid prizes!



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buy a car that is about a year old or so... saves on the depreciation and you still get a warranty... that is what I did when I bought my '02 BMW M Roadster... I saved about $15000 dollars and still got a "brand new" car at the time...

Good luck!
NSCR-2376, SCR-15080

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Don't, I repeat, don't buy any *special* warranties (ie, tires). Extended should be OK however.

I bought my truck about a year ago, and I knew I'd be taking it offroading, so hell yeah, I snagged the tire warranty (they'll replace the tires whenever they go flat, etc, etc) .... well, a few weeks later, I'm reading the fine print and realize I got completely raped on it ..... oh well, i've signed my life over for it anyways .....
This ad space for sale.

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Quote

buy a car that is about a year old or so... saves on the depreciation and you still get a warranty... that is what I did when I bought my '02 BMW M Roadster... I saved about $15000 dollars and still got a "brand new" car at the time...

-----------------------------------------------------------

Or you end up with someone elses problem. Happened to me once.

Play stupid games, win stupid prizes!



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Hit the internet...email all the Jeep dealers within 150-200 miles of where you are at. Tell them exactly what you're looking for (options, etc.) and tell them what you're looking to pay (total price, not payment) and ask for a response back. The ones that respond truely want your business. From the responses, narrow the field and hash one against the next. i.e. why shouldn't I drive the extra 60 miles to dealership B to save an additional 3500$.
Once you whittle it down to the dealership you want to work with, you've pretty much done most of your negotiation online - timefactor saved for you from having to deal with car salespeople. You get what you want and what you want to pay for it. Granted, you may have to drive a bit further than you'd like, but it's worth it in the long run.
Saved $4000 when I bought my truck this way. Total time spent dealing with the emails? about 90 minutes after I did my research. Time spent in dealership? 15 minutes. Did the financing paperwork via fax and email. Showed up, signed up and was out the door with my new toy.
-----
~~~Michael

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1) Go to a 5 star rated Chrysler/Jeep dealer.

2) Ask about their Certified Pre-Owned inventory.

3) Save big $$$

They check these things out from asshole to appetite, and don't warrant them unless they're 100%.

I bought a 2001 PT Cruiser, and a 2002 Jeep Wrangler that way this year. Balance of 8/80 on each, both had around 13k miles on them.

Very good deals. Make a low offer, and don't be afraid to walk away - like previously mentioned.

----------------=8^)----------------------
"I think that was the wrong tennis court."

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Hey,
If you haven't talked to the manager ....you can get a better price ...even then make them work for you.
Get the best price you can...then leave (they won't make it easy)and offer it to another dealer to beat( on the SAME EXACT CAR!)
When the original dealer calls you(they will) or if you want call them tell them to beat it and you'll come in today and buy it.
my 2¢
~J
"One flew East,and one flew West..............one flew over the cuckoo's nest"
"There's absolutely no excuse for the way I'm about to act"

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Last new car I bought I found out dealer cost (which is actually lower than dealer invoice), incentives, including non-published ones, etc. and figured the true cost.

Walked into the dealership, showed them what I had, said I was ready to buy a car right now and was willing to let them make $300 off the few minutes they'd need to spend on the paperwork. They said no, I went down the street to another one and they said ok.

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Absolute RULE #1:
Do not let them start out discussing MONTHLY PAYMENTS with you!!

The first question a salesman will ask is "What do you want your monthly payments to be?"
Tell them to Piss OFF right then. Never Discuss Monthly Payments with a Salesman. The only thing to discuss is how much you are paying for the car. This is just a ploy to get you to pay sticker price (or close to it) for the car and then finance it for a longer period of time to get your payments where you want them. Your monthly payments are between you and your Bank or whoever you choose to finance the car with and has absolutely nothing to do with the dealer that you are buying the car from.

Goto http://www.edmunds.com and find the TMV (True Market Value) for the car you want. When you go in to discuss buying the car, Tell them this is what you are willing to Plus TAX, Tag and Title and not a penny more. Give then your phone number and tell them to call you if they are willing to accept it. Do not hang around while they play the “I will have to go ask the sales Manager Game.”. Give them your number and leave.

After they accept your offer (and they will)
Do not pay any other Junk Fees such as Prep Fees, Document Fees, Advertising Fees (I cant believe that New Car dealers now try to pass on their Advertising costs as a Line item on the sales order but most do now) or any other fees. If they are preprinted on the sales order, Cross them out.

Financing:
If you have a Credit Union, you will generally get the best terms from them. Factory Financing is a good deal too if you have excellent Credit. Do not Finance a car for more than 5 Years for any reason.

TMV Plus tax and any Tag and Title Fees if they are relevant in your state. Nothing more.

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