ZigZagMarquis 9 #1 March 7, 2010 A couple of friends of mine gave me a Singer 269W26 Bar-tac head that "needs some work"... Anyway... it will obviously need a table, motor, repair and replacement of some missing bits. Any thoughts, comments, concerns or smart remarks on where to start? I found a manual on-line, but doesn't seem to be much to it. Likely I'll need some professional help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sprtdth 0 #2 March 7, 2010 Send it to Alberonie's in Anaheim. Tell him what you want, complete rebuild, clean and replace parts.... He's the manCRW Skies Frank CRW Diva #58 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZigZagMarquis 9 #3 March 7, 2010 Thanks sprtdth. I'll give them a call. I've also heard of http://www.atlaslevy.com/. Anyone have any experience with them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,426 #4 March 7, 2010 Hi Zig, I think that there are two types of people: Those who continually cuss the 269 ( me ) and those who really, really like them. I had one, complete with table, and I bought it dirt cheap knowing that it did not work. I started contacting people and was recommended to Mark Lancaster in South Carolina. He completely rebuilt it including new cams for the 'correct' stitch pattern. When I got it back it would sew really good on light-weight materials but not worth a @#@# on the heavier stuff, which is what I wanted it for. I eventually sold it to someone who knew what they were getting and that had a lot of experience with them. Personally, I don't want anymore to do with one. But that is just me and why I need certain sewing machines. Hope that this helps, JerryBaumchen PS) Give Mark a call, he posts on here as: MEL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZigZagMarquis 9 #5 March 7, 2010 Thanks Jerry. If I do get the 269W26 working, I'd likely only use it on what I'd think were "light weight" duties... line-sets, the few bar-tacs here and there on canopies, etc. I'll keep the bloke in mind you mention, but am not sure I'd be much up for shipping it off to Southern Carolina from SoCal not knowing much what it will take to get it going again. I'll likely try a place down Aneheim or L.A. way and see what they say. Right now I'm tinkering with a Singer 95-12 trying to get it back working. I really wish I knew what I was doing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,426 #6 March 8, 2010 Hi Zig, QuoteI really wish I knew what I was doing. Don't we all, JerryBaumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
parachutist 2 #7 March 8, 2010 Quote When I got it back it would sew really good on light-weight materials but not worth a @#@# on the heavier stuff, which is what I wanted it for. I have an older Singer model 89-26, and I've been having similar experiences. It works great bartacking all lines and most fabrics... until I get to 1000 lb Dacron fingertrapped back into itself. In that case there will be a bee's nest of thread on bottom side of the bartack after the cycle has completed.... unless I make the top thread tight enough that it's getting a little damaged as it feeds through. Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrigger1 2 #8 March 8, 2010 Jerry, Thanks for the reference, but I try NOT to work on sewing machines anymore than I have to... Quote I had one, complete with table, and I bought it dirt cheap knowing that it did not work. I started contacting people and was recommended to Mark Lancaster in South Carolina. He completely rebuilt it including new cams for the 'correct' stitch pattern. When I got it back it would sew really good on light-weight materials but not worth a @#@# on the heavier stuff, which is what I wanted it for. The combination of the Spring Rods on the clamp and a larger needle will make the material float when you sew heavier material. The ones (spring Rods) we had to put on your machine were made in China, not too good, and they were all that we could find at that time. The original spring rods were made of good, sturdy metal whereas these from China just do not work as well. I do have several original parts in house that he will need. Some are very hard to find. That machine was a 28 stitch unless someone has converted it over to something else. BS, MELSkyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,426 #9 March 8, 2010 Hi Mark, I want you, and everyone, to know that I have absolutely no complaints about the work that you did on the 269 that I sent to you. You did exactly what you said that you would do. I hope that no one considered my post to be anything negative towards Mark or the work that he did for me. JerryBaumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrigger1 2 #10 March 8, 2010 Jerry, I never took in that way, sorry if you thought I did. I was trying to explain why a 269 will do what we were talking about. Back to the subject matter, Zig Zag is probably better off taking the machine to a scrap yard and just spend the money on a E bartacker. I figure 800-1000 on the light side to get her running like it needs to run. A used Juki 1900 can be had for around $2500.00. Cheers, MELSkyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lilchief 1 #11 March 8, 2010 Quote I do have several original parts in house that he will need. Some are very hard to find. That machine was a 28 stitch unless someone has converted it over to something else. BS, MEL maybe a dumb question, but isn't there a possibillity to redesign original parts in AUTO-Cad/SolidWorks or similar, and have it made in a CNC machine with good high quality steel? Or is it that how it's done, but it's very pricy?"Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return." - Da Vinci www.lilchief.no Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fcajump 164 #12 March 8, 2010 Quote A couple of friends of mine gave me a Singer 269W26 Bar-tac head that "needs some work"... Anyway... it will obviously need a table, motor, repair and replacement of some missing bits. Any thoughts, comments, concerns or smart remarks on where to start? I found a manual on-line, but doesn't seem to be much to it. Likely I'll need some professional help. Biased personal opinion about this machine... Do whatever MEL (Mark) on this thread recommends. I'll vouch for MEL's knowledge on machines... The two 269's he sold me are still running smooth.JW PS-Jerry - FWIW this reader didn't take your post as a dig on MEL... just a dig at the 269 Always remember that some clouds are harder than others... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,426 #13 March 8, 2010 Hi Jim, QuotePS-Jerry - FWIW this reader didn't take your post as a dig on MEL... just a dig at the 269 I just wanted to make sure everyone understood. I have done other business with Mark and would do so again in a heartbeat. In fact, we are discussing some parts at this time. JerryBaumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZigZagMarquis 9 #14 March 9, 2010 Quote I figure 800-1000 on the light side to get her running like it needs to run. Cheers, MEL Wow! Thanks for the "good news" Mel. Anyway, I'll probably take her down to Alberonie's in Anaheim or AtlasLevy in L.A. and see what they think. I haven't really settled on a number in my head where I won't bother with this particular 269, but something upwards or over a grand would probably cause me to waive off. Its not like I "need" a bartacker, its more of a "want" to a "nice to have". Okay, let me ask a stupid question... if one is to have a bartacker to do lines & the odd bar-tac one finds on a canopy, what should the stitch pattern / length be? Okay, I should know this shit, but I don't, so once folks are done laughing and pointing at me, can y'all let me know what the answer is? Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrigger1 2 #15 March 9, 2010 Quote Okay, let me ask a stupid question... if one is to have a bartacker to do lines & the odd bar-tac one finds on a canopy, what should the stitch pattern / length be? 42 stitch, 7/8" Center Start/Center Stop Cheers, MELSkyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZigZagMarquis 9 #16 March 10, 2010 QuoteQuote Okay, let me ask a stupid question... if one is to have a bartacker to do lines & the odd bar-tac one finds on a canopy, what should the stitch pattern / length be? 42 stitch, 7/8" Center Start/Center Stop Cheers, MEL Any idea if a 268W26 can be set-up to do that? And other than trying to find it in the most confusing Parachute manual ever invented... commonly called Poynters (I swear Jimmy Hoffa is in there somewhere)... how would I have known that? Serious question, I'm not being a smart-ass. How do you guys learn all that stuff? Where's is written down?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrigger1 2 #17 March 10, 2010 Quote Any idea if a 268W26 can be set-up to do that? Yes, but you will have to change out the gears and cam from a 28 stitch to the 42 stitch. Quote Serious question, I'm not being a smart-ass. How do you guys learn all that stuff? Where's is written down?? It's not in Poynter's. I basically got my knowledge from talking to the manufacturer's and copying what I saw in the field. Now I make up my own bartack patterns for different applications. In fact, if you look at the canopies that NZ Aerosports is manufacturing, you will see my bartack patterns at work. Cheers, MELSkyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jenkincb00 0 #18 March 10, 2010 *** In fact, if you look at the canopies that NZ Aerosports is manufacturing, you will see my bartack patterns at work. Cheers, MEL Now I'm having second thoughts on that JVX...kidding of course...but seriously second thoughts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sprtdth 0 #19 March 11, 2010 Quote 42 stitch, 7/8" Center Start/Center Stop Quote Any idea if a 268W26 can be set-up to do that? Quote According to the 269W26 manual, you can go up to 5/8" long. End start and stop. If you put the 269W11 cam in it it will do 42, 7/8". Don't know if it will still be end start/stop, but, Roy at Alberonie will know. Oh, if you decide to throw it in the scrap yard, thow it in mine CRW Skies Frank CRW Diva #58 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZigZagMarquis 9 #20 March 11, 2010 Quote According to the 269W26 manual... Ummm... do you have a soft copy of that you can hook a brother up with? ...Pleeease Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeffrey 1 #21 March 11, 2010 Try this link for most all Singer manuals: http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZigZagMarquis 9 #22 March 12, 2010 Yes, I've got that, but what's on there is more of a service document on essential adjustments for the 269W family. On an adjacent link, there's a detailed parts list for the 269W family of machines too. What I'm looking for (if it exists) is more of an operator's manual for a 269. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,426 #23 March 12, 2010 Hi Zig, Quote What I'm looking for (if it exists) is more of an operator's manual for a 269. Here you go: 1. There are two pedals on a 269; one for the Presser Foot ( if that is the right term for it ) and one is the Go pedal. 2. Step on the Presser Foot pedal to raise it so you can place the material under it. 3. Step on the Go pedal. 4. Step on the Presser Foot pedal and remove the material. Is that good enough? JerryBaumchen PS) The value of that is what you paid for it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZigZagMarquis 9 #24 March 13, 2010 Quote Hi Zig, Quote What I'm looking for (if it exists) is more of an operator's manual for a 269. Here you go: 1. There are two pedals on a 269; one for the Presser Foot ( if that is the right term for it ) and one is the Go pedal. 2. Step on the Presser Foot pedal to raise it so you can place the material under it. 3. Step on the Go pedal. 4. Step on the Presser Foot pedal and remove the material. Is that good enough? JerryBaumchen PS) The value of that is what you paid for it. Yeah, I figured it was something like that, but shouldn't one take their foot off of #2 before putting their foot on #3??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZigZagMarquis 9 #25 April 9, 2010 I spoke with Alberoni and after describing the condition of the machine, (in short) pretty much got the boat anchor suggestion. I spoke with Atlas Levy and they were a bit more up-beat, but still sounded like I'm looking at 500+ to get her going and I'd venture to guess, if I actually took the machine to them, it would be closer to what Mel wag'ed. They also spoke well of the "newer" used Juki bar tackers. I may run it down to Atlas sometime just for something to do and to see what else he has in his shop, but I'm thinking the saga of this particular Singer 269W26 given to me may be about played out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites