Twin needle for sewing through stiffeners

[ChrisClark 0]

I have a Mitsubishi LT2-2220 (BOB - large bobbin) twin needle machine which works fine for binding many layers of different fabric but as soon as I try to work through plastic on tuck tabs and flaps the thread breaks and stitches are dropped, a total mess. I am using 140/21 size needles with E thread or metric 40 (slightly heavier). Does anyone have experience with this machine or can recommend a better machine for this type of work. My single needle walking foot machine sews through the work perfectly but is not practical for binding large areas.

[masterrig 1]

I'm not at all familiar with the machine you mentioned but your post got me to thinking. I've never owned a double-needle machine and sewed 'miles' of trim tape with it and when the job was done, everyone thought I had a double needle machine. Of course, my method takes twice the time but it was 'results' I was after.


Chuck

[riggermick 7]

Quote

I have a Mitsubishi LT2-2220 (BOB - large bobbin) twin needle machine which works fine for binding many layers of different fabric but as soon as I try to work through plastic on tuck tabs and flaps the thread breaks and stitches are dropped, a total mess. I am using 140/21 size needles with E thread or metric 40 (slightly heavier). Does anyone have experience with this machine or can recommend a better machine for this type of work. My single needle walking foot machine sews through the work perfectly but is not practical for binding large areas.

Try heating the plastic (MDS Nylon) with a hair drier just prior to sewing, you will be amazed at how easily the needles pass through the material. Like a hot knife through butter, only opposite. You will need to practice how much heat is needed, too little and the thread will cut, too much and the thread will melt.

Good luck and happy sewing.

[ChrisClark 0]

Thanks for that, I will give it a go.

[WGore 0]

I have never tried Micks method but using more tension on the foot helps as well. If you have fabric on either side of the stiffener the heat might be a problem. The problem occurs when the needle starts up and lifts the work taking the loop up that the hook has to pick up. I have held the plastic down against the throat plate with my finger if not enough tension can be generated from the tension spring. I also use a 22 needle (which is what a 140 corresponds to). Silicone lube on the needle might help as well.

GUNFIRE, The sound of Freedom!

[ChrisClark 0]

Bob well spotted with the needle size.
I did think that the solution would be something to do with the way the machine feeds the material. Added a lot more pressure on the foot, adjusted the check spring and after re-adjusting the tension it now works pretty well. I am making tuck flaps which are covered in cordura first then bound with tape so the heating method was probably not an option.
The machine is needle feed and I use it a lot for sewing tape onto mesh for pilot chute construction and binding lighter stuff and have not required any real pressure via the foot. Thanks for help.

[riggermick 7]

Quote

Bob well spotted with the needle size.
I did think that the solution would be something to do with the way the machine feeds the material. Added a lot more pressure on the foot, adjusted the check spring and after re-adjusting the tension it now works pretty well. I am making tuck flaps which are covered in cordura first then bound with tape so the heating method was probably not an option.
The machine is needle feed and I use it a lot for sewing tape onto mesh for pilot chute construction and binding lighter stuff and have not required any real pressure via the foot. Thanks for help.

i'm glad that this worked for you, nice fix. The general rule for sewing on any "solid surface" is : If it's warm it's soft, and sewing machines like soft stuff. Grommeting is also easier when the plastic is "soft". Give it a try you will be supprised how much easier sewing on "diffficult stuff" when it is warm.


Just my experience and .02 worth.

Mick.