NovaTTT 2 #51 February 26, 2011 QuoteThat slot will rotate the entire shaft if I turn it. It is possible that the screw is just that tight... Guess some more oil is in the future. I don't think it is, but is the arm shaft screw a LH or RH thread? If it's LH you will be tightening it while trying to loosen it. Is this in your manual? Just a thought."Even in a world where perfection is unattainable, there's still a difference between excellence and mediocrity." Gary73 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #52 February 26, 2011 Manual? I don't need no fuckin manual!! Jk! I wish I could find one online! So far there was only one that was backwards threaded, but I caught it. The one on the shaft that held the wheel on was right-tighten."I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrig 1 #53 February 26, 2011 Google 'Singer Industrial Products'. They have the manual (down-loadable, printable) there. Check the list of machines on the site, the 31-15 is listed. Also, that machine originally used a leather (rounded) belt. You can get parts through them for that machine, also. Chuck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #54 March 3, 2011 MEL, I've got a bunch of (shitty looking) paint on this thing, would it be worthwhile to disassemble it and take it to a sand blaster to knock it off, then follow it up with some flat enamel paint? I apparently have access to a sand blasting table in my new job, so it would be an easy thing for me to get done. Also, anyone ever work with a Kenmore 1430? It's a zigzag that's supposed to be semi-heavy duty, and for $70 bucks, it could be mine."I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,426 #55 March 3, 2011 Hi ski, Quote Also, anyone ever work with a Kenmore 1430? It's a zigzag that's supposed to be semi-heavy duty, and for $70 bucks, it could be mine. Did I or did I not say something about 'Only 8 more machines to go.' JerryBaumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #56 March 3, 2011 Quote Hi ski, Quote Also, anyone ever work with a Kenmore 1430? It's a zigzag that's supposed to be semi-heavy duty, and for $70 bucks, it could be mine. Did I or did I not say something about 'Only 8 more machines to go.' JerryBaumchen Shush!! I only want a zigzag, no need for a bartacker, class 7 or any of that stuff... Yet. Do you know anything about it?"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,426 #57 March 3, 2011 Hi ski, Re: Kenmore 1430 Quote Do you know anything about it? Have no idea of what it is. I would be interested in who defined it as 'supposed to be semi-heavy duty,' though. The best ( IMO ) household type machines are the Singer 401A ( which I once had ) or the Singer 500A ( which I now have ), as they meet my definition of a 'heavy-duty' household machine. I use the 500A for light-weight work such as a fair amount of the sewing on main & reserve pilot chutes, doing canopy patches ( have not done one in years ), and similar type of work. I use a 'jeans' needle with 'E' thread and she works just fine. Back when I owned the 401A, I short-lined a lot of ParaCommanders with it. JerryBaumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrig 1 #58 March 4, 2011 QuoteMEL, I've got a bunch of (shitty looking) paint on this thing, would it be worthwhile to disassemble it and take it to a sand blaster to knock it off, then follow it up with some flat enamel paint? I apparently have access to a sand blasting table in my new job, so it would be an easy thing for me to get done. Also, anyone ever work with a Kenmore 1430? It's a zigzag that's supposed to be semi-heavy duty, and for $70 bucks, it could be mine. I would advise against sand-blasting it. You'll have a helluva time cleaning all the grit out of the machine. Take it out of the table and soak the head in kerosene for a couple day. Let drip dry and you should be able to pick the paint off with your fingernails. It worked for me on my 31-15. It still has the original finish. Chuck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrig 1 #59 March 4, 2011 QuoteQuoteMEL, I've got a bunch of (shitty looking) paint on this thing, would it be worthwhile to disassemble it and take it to a sand blaster to knock it off, then follow it up with some flat enamel paint? I apparently have access to a sand blasting table in my new job, so it would be an easy thing for me to get done. Also, anyone ever work with a Kenmore 1430? It's a zigzag that's supposed to be semi-heavy duty, and for $70 bucks, it could be mine. I would advise against sand-blasting it. You'll have a helluva time cleaning all the grit out of the machine. Take it out of the table and soak the head in kerosene for a couple day. Let drip dry and you should be able to pick the paint off with your fingernails. It worked for me on my 31-15. It still has the original finish. Just to add: I'd be willing to bet, the paint on your machine is latex. Chuck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #60 March 4, 2011 QuoteQuoteQuoteMEL, I've got a bunch of (shitty looking) paint on this thing, would it be worthwhile to disassemble it and take it to a sand blaster to knock it off, then follow it up with some flat enamel paint? I apparently have access to a sand blasting table in my new job, so it would be an easy thing for me to get done. Also, anyone ever work with a Kenmore 1430? It's a zigzag that's supposed to be semi-heavy duty, and for $70 bucks, it could be mine. I would advise against sand-blasting it. You'll have a helluva time cleaning all the grit out of the machine. Take it out of the table and soak the head in kerosene for a couple day. Let drip dry and you should be able to pick the paint off with your fingernails. It worked for me on my 31-15. It still has the original finish. Just to add: I'd be willing to bet, the paint on your machine is latex. Chuck It doesn't appear to be latex, but more like spray paint. I'll try to figure out how to get that much kerosene and soak it (living in a city apartment). I was thinking I could take it completely apart, down to the bare head, but I guess that'll be a PITA to put back together?"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrig 1 #61 March 4, 2011 QuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteMEL, I've got a bunch of (shitty looking) paint on this thing, would it be worthwhile to disassemble it and take it to a sand blaster to knock it off, then follow it up with some flat enamel paint? I apparently have access to a sand blasting table in my new job, so it would be an easy thing for me to get done. Also, anyone ever work with a Kenmore 1430? It's a zigzag that's supposed to be semi-heavy duty, and for $70 bucks, it could be mine. I would advise against sand-blasting it. You'll have a helluva time cleaning all the grit out of the machine. Take it out of the table and soak the head in kerosene for a couple day. Let drip dry and you should be able to pick the paint off with your fingernails. It worked for me on my 31-15. It still has the original finish. Just to add: I'd be willing to bet, the paint on your machine is latex. Chuck It doesn't appear to be latex, but more like spray paint. I'll try to figure out how to get that much kerosene and soak it (living in a city apartment). I was thinking I could take it completely apart, down to the bare head, but I guess that'll be a PITA to put back together? What I did, was laid the machine on it's side (less kerosene. I put small wooden blocks under it so as to keep from damaging certain parts. It'll sure clean one up and you don't have 'dry' metal when you go to oiling it. I was kinda hoping it wouldn't be spray paint. I do know, the original finish is 'tough' on one of those machines. When I first got mine, I spent about a month, cleaning it and re-finishing the table and stand. I put seven coats of poly-urathane on the table top. I let each coat dry and buffed it lightly with 0000-steel wool in-between coats. I love that machine and it's never let me down. Good luck with yours! Chuck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #62 March 4, 2011 I just used it a couple nights ago to sew some handles to my shot bags, and it ran like a champ... Can't wait to see what the new servo motor brings to the table, but apparently the guy I bought it from, 'shipped it to the wrong address' so it'll be another week before I get it I'll probably not tear it down and try to clean it up just yet, but once I find a way, I will. Is it bad that now I want to find something to rig just to play with my new toys? (shot bags, line separator/holder, finger trapping fids... making a new closing tool accessory tonight or tomorrow) "I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrig 1 #63 March 4, 2011 Quote I just used it a couple nights ago to sew some handles to my shot bags, and it ran like a champ... Can't wait to see what the new servo motor brings to the table, but apparently the guy I bought it from, 'shipped it to the wrong address' so it'll be another week before I get it I'll probably not tear it down and try to clean it up just yet, but once I find a way, I will. Is it bad that now I want to find something to rig just to play with my new toys? (shot bags, line separator/holder, finger trapping fids... making a new closing tool accessory tonight or tomorrow) Doing all the things you mentioned, should keep you out of mischief. If, it is laytex, the kerosene will make removal mush easier. Dis-assembling it will make cleaning it easier. After soaking, wipe it down with clean rags. I've had mine since 1993 and have never had a minute's trouble with it. I've sewn rip-stop, 0-P, Cordura, para-pak, light weight leather and canvas with it. You take care of it, you can't kill it. I wanted to add... I'm not familiar with the other machine you mentioned. Sorry, I couldn't be of help. Chuck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gowlerk 2,246 #64 March 5, 2011 Old Singer 31-15 were not actually "painted" in the sense we think of it now. They were "Japanned." A process involving dipping into a liquid mixture of oil based products and then baked for several hours. This is roughly the same process Henry Ford used on Model Ts. Which is why they were available in any colour you wanted, as long as it was black. These oscillating shuttle machines are indeed almost indestructible. Soaking them in kerosene is the recommended cure for any build up of old gummy oil that may be causing binding. After drying it off, just oil it with good quality sewing machine oil and off you go for the next several decades. You will love the servo motor when you install it. No more grabby clutch, and you can slow it down as much as you want. You don't need it running at 1700 SPM unless you are running a sweat shop. After you learn more about sewing you will find yourself wanting two things. Reverse, and some form of compound feed. But in the meantime you will enjoy your new Singer The Kenmore for $75 dollars is actually worth maybe ten. You can find cheap zigzag machines like that all day long at thrift shops for almost nothing. If you would like to spend 75-100 look for a Singer 401 as someone has already mentioned. Or a Pfaff 130, 230 0r 360. These are all domestic machines that will do a nice zigzag and are reliable, but not heavy duty. If anyone tries to sell you a machine described as "Industrial strength", just walk away. No machine that does not have a large motor hanging down under it's table is even remotely industrial. I refurbish domestic machines and sell them on ebay. I don't hype them, and I only sell stuff made before about 1960. If you want advice on domestic type machines I can help. I also own 3 industrials , but I don't know enough about them to give you as good advice as some others here can. KenAlways remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrig 1 #65 March 5, 2011 I appreciate your in-put!!! I've often wondered what the finish on old Singers was... now, I know. I have all Singers and really like them. Besides my 31-15, I have a 7-33 centennial model, 211-G-165 and a 401. I learned at a very early age on a Singer with no reverse and have learned to work without it. I really appreciate the 'simplicity' of the 'old' Singers. They get the job done and as long as I keep them cleaned and oiled, they don't let me down. Chuck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #66 March 10, 2011 QuoteWait until you install the motor and then go to a local hardware store to buy a new belt. Interesting, they don't bolt up the same way. Gonna have to go pull a drill out of somewhere and punch 3 x 3/8" holes to mount this motor to the table. Shoulda noticed that before I took it all apart... woopsie!"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NovaTTT 2 #67 March 10, 2011 Thread Hijack in progress! While we're talking about mending, repairing and upgrading our machines: Does anyone know a supplier for the oval-shaped rubber feet that my table is lacking three of? My local shop doesn't carry them and doesn't know where to get them. I'll use furniture pads if I have to but there must be a supplier of these things. Right? Cheers!"Even in a world where perfection is unattainable, there's still a difference between excellence and mediocrity." Gary73 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,426 #68 March 10, 2011 Hi Nova, Quotebut there must be a supplier of these things. Once again: Henderson Sewing Machine 1-800-824-5113 JerryBaumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #69 March 11, 2011 Jerry, MEL & everyone else Got the motor yesterday, but didn't have a drill handy (as it was set up for a different mount than the table already had) Today I punched 3 3/8" holes in the table and mounted the motor. Went to Pep Boys (don't judge me, I'll get the proper belt in due time) and brought the (cut to length) belt to measure, after a dozen or so, we got the size that would fit. Got home, mounted the belt, tightened it down... damn its nice to be able to slow the machine way the hell down! Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll post pics once I get the table cleaned up and presentable."I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NovaTTT 2 #70 March 11, 2011 Thanks, Jerry. Received your letter today. I'll be in touch via PM. "Even in a world where perfection is unattainable, there's still a difference between excellence and mediocrity." Gary73 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boyfalldown 0 #71 March 12, 2011 I know I'm a little late to the game but if anyone else is looking for a servo motor I put one of these on my juki 1541.http://www.keysew.com/Sew_Green_FL-550.htm It uses the same mounting bolts and location as the old clutch motor and combined with there 2" pulley it slows waaaay down. $165 shipped to your door. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #72 March 12, 2011 I paid about $90 + s/h for mine, came out to just under $130. Keep in mind, this won't bolt right up to every table, mine had a 4 (screw) mounting, so I had to punch the holes in it myself. Also, I like the consew one a little more than that one, as it comes with the remote switch unit that outputs 110v, so I don't have to reach under the desk to turn it on, and then flip the lamp on. One switch and I'm done!"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #73 May 25, 2011 Quote Hi ski, Quote Also, anyone ever work with a Kenmore 1430? It's a zigzag that's supposed to be semi-heavy duty, and for $70 bucks, it could be mine. Did I or did I not say something about 'Only 8 more machines to go.' JerryBaumchen Well Jerry, Looks like I might be picking up another one tonight. Found a Sailrite LSZ-1 for $300. "I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,426 #74 May 25, 2011 Hi ski, Quote Looks like I might be picking up another one tonight. Found a Sailrite LSZ-1 for $300. And I just finished getting another machine on line here. Oh, what fun it is. BTW I really appreciate the assistance on the software; it's working just fine. I told my daughter that I had it on my computer and she said, 'Good, you're making progress.' JerryBaumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #75 May 27, 2011 Quote BTW I really appreciate the assistance on the software; it's working just fine. Good to hear! Told you it was easy to use! So, got the machine (see photo) and promptly punched thru 6 layers of type 8 webbing... without any noticeable trouble... probably could go thru more, but it's all I could fit under the presser foot!Had to adjust the feed dog height and position to actually get it to work, and keep it from contacting the needle plate when it came in to feed. Now I just gotta figure out this issue where it will start jamming up and eventually break the thread (E-thread) and I'll be set! (using a size 18 needle, not punching thru much. my singer punches right thru the fabric I test with)"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
