PhreeZone 20 #1 March 18, 2013 I wanted to create a chart to help newer riggers and even to help myself in getting the reserve bulk to be correctly spread out for every type of rig out there. These are the ones I am somewhat sure of but would like additional input if I am wrong. Mirage - Majority at the bottom. Best done by having smaller ears Javelin - Evenly split, best done by using long earsYesterday is history And tomorrow is a mystery Parachutemanuals.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
piisfish 140 #2 March 18, 2013 Wings - needs SOFT ears Aerodyne Icon - real wedge shape (as in manual)scissors beat paper, paper beat rock, rock beat wingsuit - KarlM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pchapman 279 #3 March 18, 2013 It can get confusing as to what the correct instructions should be. A lot of rigs do well without too much in the ears, except that it can't be a minimal amount if trying to build a bit of a wall around the sides of a semi exposed pilot chute. Yet what riggers figure out in the field doesn't always match what the factory says. For example, for the rigs recently mentioned in this thread: I just checked an Icon manual that was current this year and could only find something about minimizing bulk around the grommet area. Did I miss something about a wedge shape? Oh yeah, there is hand drawn diagram that accompanies some text that says "prepare the freebag shape as shown", which does show a wedge shape but never explains it. Without text it is hard to know what part of the diagram is supposed to be salient. Of course it is wedge shaped like most freebags, but to what degree is correct? And the photo is AFTER the lines are stowed, so at this point, one can't change packing technique, only pound the bag. So I don't see Aerodyne putting much emphasis on wedges at all. Icon bags are generously large at the top, while some Icon tuck tabs don't stay in well if one stuffs the bag without particular attention to the ears either way. So less in the ears might help. As for Wings and soft ears: a) An old Wings manual that was used for years says nothing about how the ears of the canopy or freebag should be packed. b) A more recent Wings packing sequence document says nothing either. c) A newer manual, found on Sunrise's site in 2012 but maddenly with no date or revision number says, "Make sure the ears are full and firm." d) A Wings packing tips web page says "most of the canopy is folded into the ears", although the context is more about molaring the center of the canopy down to very low bulk, than how much to stuff into the top of the freebag. e) A personal email to me from a Sunrise Rigging employee about 6 years back said, "Don't stuff too much in the bottom of the container. Try to make it even and fill up the ears. Although you don't want too much up in the ears either." So the manufacturer isn't saying what others may say from the field... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theonlyski 8 #4 March 18, 2013 Vector3 - pretty much no fabric in the ears at all... Needs to be EXTRA soft or the yoke won't bend much. Javelin - make sure you work in some space between the grommet and the freebag mouth, for the PC fabric to sit. Strong Dual Hawk - just put it in the bag. "I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890 I'm an asshole, and I approve this message Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
riggerrob 643 #5 March 19, 2013 Good topic! Start by figuring out whether the reserve container is "wedge" shaped ... whether it is supposed to be thin across the top ... whether it is supposed to have some bulk across the top ... whether it is supposed to have a lot of bulk across the top. For starters: wedge-shaped container include: Dolphin, Javelin, Sidewinder, Talon 2, Vector (including most of the Microns), etc. should be packed "soft" across the top (ears) of the freebag. Mirage G3 can be packed "soft" across the top, but Mirage G4 benefits from a fold at the top. If anyone is still packing Reflex, then put A LOT of bulk at the top of the ears. Racer gets a bit more complex, because you need sufficient bulk beside both closing loops, but then have to repeatedly "massage" bulk away from the base of the pilot chute. Massaging bulk - sideways - away from the base of the pilot chute helps increase bulk along the edges (near the main riser covers) and helps "sink" the pilot-chute to help conceal the edges. Many of those Racer packing tricks also help with semi-Pop-Tops like Dolphins and Javelins. When in doubt, pack "soft" across the top to minimize the risk of offending main riser cover tuck tabs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RiggerLee 61 #6 March 19, 2013 This is actualy a really good topic. I did a talk on this at the last PIA. I think it's very relivent to how a pack job turns out. A lot of the probblems I see with containers relate dirrectly to problems with the pack jobs put in them. Issues of riser covers, tuck tabs, stiffeners, odd wear, and even permanent dammage from wrinkles. You just cant get them out after they've been "set" by a bad pack job. In the most extreame casses I think it can eaven affect functionality. One of the things I tryed to focas on is why diffrent canopies of the same "size", I use the term loosly, are fundomentally diffrent shapes. How you have to change the packjobto fit a container, even changing it from one canopy to another in the same size and type of container. And ways of changing the maner of folding in order to acomidate the greater length of some canopies as you put them in the bag. Basically it was a diatribe on how you should semi ignore the manual and fold the canopy as nesassary to fit the shape of the bag and hense the container. I tryed to address bulk distrobution lengthwise in the canopy as it layed on the floor. Where to make your folds based on that. How to split the canopy into two "ears", both above and BELLOW the center cell allowing lower folds to extend past the loop giving better wedge shapes to the pack job and absorbing length in the canopy. It also allows you to better chose where to make the folds based on where the bulkier areas of the pack job are length wise. Unfortanently based on the faces I saw in the crowd I think I preaching to the quire. I wish I could have given the lecture to all the people that couldn't come to PIA. Most of the ones there didn't really need it. To all of you out there in dropzone land, You know it's next week right? Come if you can. Call in sick, get in the car, and drive.There is still time to make it from any corner of north america. It had been several years sence I'd been to one and I had a blast. I saw so much cool new shit, I was blown away. LeeLee lee@velocitysportswear.com www.velocitysportswear.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monkycndo 0 #7 March 19, 2013 So how do you pack a big ass reserve into a Wings container? 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stayhigh 2 #8 March 19, 2013 thought it was to fill the freebag and pound the shit out of it until desired shape and close em.Bernie Sanders for President 2016 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
piisfish 140 #9 March 19, 2013 Quote So how do you pack a big ass reserve into a Wings container? pack it into a bigger ass Wingsscissors beat paper, paper beat rock, rock beat wingsuit - KarlM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ctrph8 0 #10 March 19, 2013 I had to really polish up on my foul language skills before I could make it look good. My best technique was to invest in an Optimum! Quote So how do you pack a big ass reserve into a Wings container? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
