degeneration 5 #1 May 28, 2013 So I got a canopy today (xfire2) that I'm trying to hook up and the soft links seem more difficult to all the ones I've used before. I've used both PD slinks and Aerodyne Slinks, and maybe Precision Aerodynamics ones as well, but can't remember. I assume these are Icarus slinks, as it is a (2nd hand) xfire2 they came with, and they are nigh on identical to the aerodyne ones. While I felt confident to use them like I had the others, I checked with the Icarus soft link installation guide on their website just to be 100% sure their method was identical. It is. http://www.icaruscanopies.aero/images/downloads/OTEC870027_Soft_links_regular.pdf The slink can go through the riser and the lines of the canopy twice. So up to step 4 is no problem. I have to make it extremely tight around the riser to get any of the loop out once it is done. But this then leads to the problem I'm having with Step 5. I can't seem to get enough of the slink left over to have any chance of going through the tiny opening at the ring loop. These slinks do seem about a a centimetre shorter than the aerodyne ones that were on my previous canopy and at least that shorter than the ones in the pictures on the link provided above. If i pull it tight enough to get a usable amount of the slink at the end, then the metal ring is pulled up tight against the lines so I can't access the hole. If I get it so I've even only got slight access to the hole, then there isn't enough of the slink left to actually go through it. I have hooked up several main canopies in the past, so I do know how to do it, I just can't seem to get the slinks to be able to do it this time! Any advice on technique or generally what to do? If pictures will help show what I mean let me know and I'll get some taken. Cheers.Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GoneCodFishing 24 #2 May 28, 2013 You've got PdF slinks. They hook up differently, but many container manufacturers don't approve them to be used on their rigs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GoneCodFishing 24 #3 May 28, 2013 Page 43 here http://www.parachutes-de-france.net/upload/docs/100508061612-25-63-35-manuel-atom-legend-r.zip PdF risers have a stud within the 'loop' to which the grommet/ring 'lock' after installation. It'd be a bad idea to use these slinks in any other risers. If i were you i'd just get a set of new slinks. Weather is shit the whole of this week in the UK anyway, so is not like you'll miss on jumping Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
degeneration 5 #4 May 28, 2013 Makes sense I guess... I bought the canopy from someone in France. I'm doing the research, but drawing a blank here, is there anywhere I can quickly find out if the link is approved by particular container manufacturers? Thanks for the reply.Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GoneCodFishing 24 #5 May 28, 2013 E-mail them... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
degeneration 5 #6 May 28, 2013 that was my next option, but had hoped to find a quick yes or no somewhere online first!Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
degeneration 5 #7 May 28, 2013 Things may have worked out for the ok. I had a 2nd rig that is currently out of use, where the main canopy had the regular soft links, so just swapped them over as that would solve the immediate problem. Then I noticed while doing this, something that may be a great stroke of luck. The 2nd container was a Thomas Sports Tear Drop and in the riser loops were studs that seem as though they can lock the ring in place (once tacked down I would presume). Obviously that is something I'll get checked out properly when the rig is ready to come back online, but I'm hopeful there won't be a problem!Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mx19 0 #8 May 28, 2013 Why don't you just buy a new set of slinks? cheap enough and never a bad idea to use new ones over second hand? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Southern_Man 0 #9 May 28, 2013 Just for curiosity sake can you post a picture?"What if there were no hypothetical questions?" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
degeneration 5 #10 May 28, 2013 Buying new slinks is an option, but didn't help me there and then when I was fitting these ones. So I'd have to wait either until I'm at the DZ (if they have any in stock) or until they are delivered. Swapping the slinks in my rigs over solved the problem without any unnecessary expense. I just looked at what to take a picture of, and basically I didn't know! They are identical in look to the aerodyne slinks, except they are shorter and don't have a notable hole by the ring (nothing dodgy intended) to feed the other end of the slink through. Other than that, they look the same. Anyway, another solution has presented itself and it seems more fun. I've been sent instructions on how to make some DIY non-sew slinks. Looks like a nice simple learning experience and also a bit of fun to do, and will work out a lot cheaper than buying branded slinks. Just have to get some 1000lb spectra line now.Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
riggerrob 643 #11 May 29, 2013 "... another solution ... DIY non-sew slinks. Looks like a nice simple learning experience and also a bit of fun to do, and will work out a lot cheaper than buying branded slinks. Just have to get some 1000lb spectra line now. ............................................................................... Just remember to tie the largest and ugliest knot ... I vaguely remember it as a "binder knot." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,373 #12 May 29, 2013 Hi Rob, Yup, it's me again. Quote DIY non-sew slinks. Kris is referring to the DINX that I developed. I sent him the link but he could open it/find it/or something; so I sent him the pdf so he could decide if they might work for him. No knots of any kind; just the no-sew finger-lock as described on the Jump Shack website ( I 'think' it is there ). JerryBaumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
