L bar removal

[Skydive2 1]

Anyone have any tips for removing l bars on reserves without tools

[irishrigger 32]

Without tools it can be a Real pain in the backside. i suppose you could try a small coin instead of a screwdriver to open the screws on the L brackets.
as for seperating the brackets, i have my own tool for that,and its really handy and effortless. i could suggest a piece of wood that has a wedge shape and fairly thin.put that between the L Brackets and hopefully it will seperate easily for you.

Rodger

[leon.hill 1]

At a minimum you will need a screwdriver to loosen the screws.

[likestojump 3]

Unthread the screws enough to have at least 3mm of head sticking out (both sides).

place the L-bar on hard surface with the head of the bottom screw pointing directly down
use a hammer to knock 'em loose by hittin the head of the top exposed screw

works every time

[mark 107]

likestojump

Unthread the screws enough to have at least 3mm of head sticking out (both sides).

place the L-bar on hard surface with the head of the bottom screw pointing directly down
use a hammer to knock 'em loose by hittin the head of the top exposed screw

works every time

Use a brass hammer, which will not damage the screws.

Mark

[JerryBaumchen 1,375]

Hi 2,

I built this guy about 40 yrs ago; L-bars were common then.

I still use it on occasion.

My procedure is to remove one screw completely, loosen the other one about 1/2 way, set the L-bar on my tool, hit as soft as is possible to reduce any damage. The 2nd screw keeps things from flying around the room.

IMO never, never hit the screw head with anything. That is why ParaGear sells replacement screws.

It does not show real well in the photo, but the tool is tapered to shove the two pieces of the L-bar apart as they slide down the tool.

JerryBaumchen

[riggerrob 643]

or ... you could back off the screws and squeeze it in a bench vise.
Hint: use soft jaws made of copper or aluminum to avoid mashing screws.

[wmw999 2,460]

Any of the hit-the-screw options are better done with a rubber mallet on a piece of linoleum or wood or something like that -- i.e. softer than the screw, but hard enough to provide resistance.

Wendy P.

There is nothing more dangerous than breaking a basic safety rule and getting away with it. It removes fear of the consequences and builds false confidence. (tbrown)

[masterrigger1 2]

Lance,
Never use a hammer!

Here is a method that I have been teaching for years.

1.First, go to either a welding supply shop or EBay and get a 10 way Oxy/acetylene torch wrench; cost about 5 bucks.

2.Next get a 10 to 14 inch long screwdriver that will fit width wise in the slot between the two L bars.

3.Loosen both screws about three turns each

4.Insert wrench into slot using the 9/16 marked position on the wrench.

5.Insert screwdriver in between the torch wrench and L bar link. This is the opening that you see in photo #4

6.Squeeze both the wrench and screwdriver together and the links will separate.

See attached photos:


MEL

Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC
www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

[fcajump 164]

As if there weren't enough/different methods:

1. Back both the screws out ~1/2 way.
2. Place one end of the 'L' link into the grove of a knee board (don't capture any lines/material between the metal).
3. Place that end of the 'L' link on a hard surface, screw down.
4. push the knee board toward the hard surface (read "stand on knee board")

Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

[stratostar 5]

I use a tapered plastic packing paddle. Works the same as the 500 dollar tool paragear sells, only better and cheaper.

you can't pay for kids schoolin' with love of skydiving! ~ Airtwardo

[LouDiamond 1]

Two screw drivers opposed to one another and forcefully moved simultaneously in a rapid scissoring motion will also work as a field expedient method.

"It's just skydiving..additional drama is not required"
Some people dream about flying, I live my dream
SKYMONKEY PUBLISHING

[masterrig 1]

My instructor who I worked under for my Senior ticket, gave me his link separator he had gotten through Para-Gear. Neat little gadget and simple to use.


Chuck

[NovaTTT 2]

Separating L bars is easily accomplished with tools you already have.

Remove the two screws and slide the link over the thin end of your metal tapered paddle. Stand it up on the wide end and tap the ends of the L bar with your rawhide mallet.

Cheers!

"Even in a world where perfection is unattainable, there's still a difference between excellence and mediocrity." Gary73

[stratostar 5]

That's the same thing I do, only different.

you can't pay for kids schoolin' with love of skydiving! ~ Airtwardo

[drjump 0]

Another home built separator.

[masterrigger1 2]

Quote

Another home built separator.

I think Noah used that one on the ark!

How's it going Doc?
Long time no see.

MEL

Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC
www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

[hajnalka 0]

NovaTTT and drjump: I used to have a little iron tool that was similar at Carolina Sky Sports, it was a wedge no more than 3" high that sat on a iron base, that fit inside the link. Loosen the screws, put it on there, and one little whack would have it separated.

Might have been homemade. I can't find anything similar ... if anyone has a source for something similar (or would make one for me) I'm all ears.

I thought of and tried the tapered packing paddle thing two weeks ago when disassembling a Sigma reserve. After that and many other methods (screwdrivers, tapping the partially unthreaded screws, etc.) I had to walk away in frustration.

Three riggers, a plumber, 4 strong guys and over an hour later we got it done. Turns out someone had loc-tited the screws thoroughly with RED loc-tite.

I still need to inform my DZO that we need to order a new set of L-bars. Luckily no lines were damaged in the process.