Shredex 0 #1 March 30, 2014 Looking to purchase my first sewing machine but don't want to spend an arm and a leg... I'll be making Stash/Gear bags, Backpacks, Jumpsuits, ect. So don't need anything super heavy duty. Just want it to last a few years. Can you recommend anything? EDIT: This is what I'm currently looking at. http://www.amazon.com/Brother-Feature-Rich-Built-In-Auto-Size-Buttonholes/dp/B000JQM1DE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RiggerLee 61 #2 March 30, 2014 Consew 230, half speed motor, small pulley. LeeLee lee@velocitysportswear.com www.velocitysportswear.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gowlerk 2,216 #3 March 30, 2014 Singer 20U, or one of the many copies. Google it.Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monkycndo 0 #4 March 30, 2014 If you want zigzag, the Singer 20U models, Bernina 217 or Pfaff 138. Singer will be cheapest. You should be using E thread. That home style machine might not be able to handle thread that big. If you want to start with a home style machine, look for a Singer 401A or Singer 500. They can handle the E thread fine.50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shredex 0 #5 March 30, 2014 monkycndoIf you want zigzag, the Singer 20U models, Bernina 217 or Pfaff 138. Singer will be cheapest. You should be using E thread. That home style machine might not be able to handle thread that big. If you want to start with a home style machine, look for a Singer 401A or Singer 500. They can handle the E thread fine. Its really the price point. I don't want to spend more then $200 on a machine right now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfriverjoe 1,523 #6 March 30, 2014 If you want a cheap domestic machine, try Goodwill or St Vincent De Paul. Or a local thrift store. Last time I was in St Vinnie's, they had 4 or 5 decent domestics - older ones that were built to last, not the current cheap stuff. Some of them included (domestic style) tables. $25 or so. Take it to a sewing shop and spend $50 - $75 for a good cleaning and tune up and you will be good to go. I was given a Pfaff 90 that's pretty old (circa 1950s). That thing is a tank. Metal head, metal gears, and so on. The guy at the shop said that it would last a long, long time if cared for properly. It's not a commercial grade machine, but it will pull E-thread just fine. I've sewn denim,heavy canvas, even leather with it."There are NO situations which do not call for a French Maid outfit." Lucky McSwervy "~ya don't GET old by being weak & stupid!" - Airtwardo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wmw999 2,457 #7 March 30, 2014 I've sewn on plenty of heavy things with several machines. All have handled E thread with no issues. I currently have a Janome HD 100 (which is above your price point), but it'll go through the intersections of blue jeans seams (e.g. where the hem and the seam intersect) with a minimum of needing to be walked through it. I've found that a big enough needle is they key to that. You want one with a fairly powerful motor. Wolfriverjoe is right; to start out on, nearly any machine will work, and you should cruise Craigslist, Goodwill, etc. for them. Read reviews of those machines on Amazon before you buy if they're within reasonable age range. And if you get a 1977 Sears compact portable, I'll take it Wendy P. There is nothing more dangerous than breaking a basic safety rule and getting away with it. It removes fear of the consequences and builds false confidence. (tbrown) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stratostar 5 #8 March 31, 2014 Love my singer 3115...you can't pay for kids schoolin' with love of skydiving! ~ Airtwardo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monkycndo 0 #9 March 31, 2014 stratostarLove my singer 3115... Shred, don't be surprised if you watch CL and find a Singer 31-15 or 31-20(larger bobbin) for cheap. $200 and under. Often listed as Grandma's old machine and family is cleaning out her basement and just want to get rid of it quick. It will run forever and parts are easy to get.50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
councilman24 37 #10 March 31, 2014 What your looking at isn't worth buying. Nothing new in your price range is. I searched ebay for machines within 100 miles of holiday fl. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HeaVy-DutY-Necchi-zz-serviced-loaded-uphols-vinyl-lite-leather-very-clean-/281293449432?pt=BI_Sewing_Machines&hash=item417e6568d8 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-Viking-Sewing-Machine-6020-/261433382441?pt=BI_Sewing_Machines&hash=item3cdea4d629 I used versions similiar to both of these before I got my first commercial machine. Either one of these would be a good choice and are withing 100 miles of you. I wore out the hook on my viking and a new hook was as much as I paid for the machine so I went and found another one. You can either buy or make a table to make these flat bed. The viking has a slower speed/higher torque setting available. Still works better for sewing 6 layers of type 4 for toggles than my commercial machines. If your willing to pay for shipping lots more available. At your budget you want a viking, necchi or similar home machine from the 50's or 60's. I'm sure there are Pfaff, singer and probably white from the same time frame that would be equivalent. If you were closer a 31-15 and a Necchi bu are available nearby in MI near or below your budget. Both on commercial tables with knee lift.I'm old for my age. Terry Urban D-8631 FAA DPRE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shredex 0 #11 March 31, 2014 That Necchi ad says it will sew heavy fabrics with #16 needle, but apparently I need #18 for E thread, do you know if that machine with take a #18 needle? If so I'm going to buy that before the auction ends in 20 minutes! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
councilman24 37 #12 March 31, 2014 Yes it will take an 18 but that machine may not be as strong as the one I used. Should be okay though. The viking would be better, at least I know more about it and it has the low gear, I think.I'm old for my age. Terry Urban D-8631 FAA DPRE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shredex 0 #13 March 31, 2014 councilman24Yes it will take an 18 but that machine may not be as strong as the one I used. Should be okay though. The viking would be better, at least I know more about it and it has the low gear, I think. The necchi shows samples of it sewing through 8 layers of denim. I can't seem to find information about either of them, though. Trying to see if the Necchi has a low speed...it does have a better ad then the Viking. Seems I can trust it's working order better lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shredex 0 #14 March 31, 2014 Ok, Won the auction for the Necchi. Hopefully it does what I need it to do :] Thanks for all the info and help, guys! I'm sure I'll be back with questions! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Unstable 9 #15 March 31, 2014 Hey sounds like the issue is resolved, but I want to be that guy and disagree with some of the advice to look at the 20u's out their knockoffs. I'll preface this with the fact that I know many skilled riggers and dpre's that would disagree with me, and I respect their opinions but hold my own. 20u's are not that good nor do I believe they are a good starter machine. My first machine was a 20u, and I've owned two of them now. I used one for 6+ years and cut my teeth on them for canopy repairs and basic container work requiring a zigzag. I think of a 20u as a 'One machine that does it all' but does it all at the b- level. I've rebuilt them, tuned them, refurbished them, and done repairs with not only mine, but others as well. I have a number of complaints with them. Many streamed once I spent time on a 143w and Pfaff 138 and saw the difference a better machine makes. Every 20u I've used has finicky bottom thread tension and needs minor tuning to go from a good zig zag to good straight stitch. When I started spending time with a good straight stitch and a good zigzag machine, I saw the quality of my work increase. It made me wonder where I would be if I started on a Pfaff138 instead.=========Shaun ========== Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shredex 0 #16 March 31, 2014 In some of the earlier threads I searched before asking, councilman24 stated: "But stay away from the newer Singer 20u's and the cloans. They all seem to come from the same chinese factory, range in price from $500 to $900 new for exactly the same thing and often have quality problems. Older blue Singer 20Us were made in Japan. Those are worth buying. There are other better machines to choose from but some are hard to find used." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monkycndo 0 #17 March 31, 2014 The blue or greenish brown machines were still made in Japan. The newer cream/white colored machines are Chinese. I agree those are pretty bad. For someone just starting, a 20U with straight and zigzag can be a cheap way to start learning to sew on a single machine. The comment by unstable about bobbin tension can be true. The 20U33 I had was a bit touchy. Took me a while to get it right. Even then I needed to make sure it was oiled and no lint it the bobbin race to keep it sewing smoothly. I found a nice deal on a Pfaff 183. Sold the 20U to a new riglet. I agree a better machine is always nice to have.50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hellis 0 #18 March 31, 2014 This is a nice machine, it's above your pricerange but it might be avalible used. It can do quite heavy stuff with correct needle. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B002LCY04W?pc_redir=1396024242&robot_redir=1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dpreguy 14 #19 March 31, 2014 Singer 188K It's the one Rags Raghanti uses at PIA in his traveling demo for teaching patch sewing. It is the smoothest little gem I've ever sewed with. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dpreguy 14 #20 March 31, 2014 Singer 188K. It's the machine Rags Raghanti uses in his traveling demo at PIA to teach sewing patches. It is the smoothest machine I've ever sewed with. E cord (V-69) only. Small pulley or an electronic motor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Unstable 9 #21 March 31, 2014 Quote The blue or greenish brown machines were still made in Japan. The newer cream/white colored machines are Chinese. I agree those are pretty bad. For someone just starting, a 20U with straight and zigzag can be a cheap way to start learning to sew on a single machine. Good Point! I've never used a White Chinese 20u or the Consew/Sailrite knockoffs ~ my first 20u was a Green(ish) and my current model is a Blue (while we're being technical ) I want to preface that I can get a good straight stitch on a 20u. Replace the feeddog, needleplate, and foot with pieces just for a straight stitch, and then re-balance the top and bottom tensions. I can get a good zigzag on the 20u, if I put in the zigzag feeddog, needleplate, and put on a wider foot, and re-balance. The problems I've had (and are on every 20u I've used) are the thread tension balance as you crossover between 301 and 304 stitch patterns. What I see, even on a properly timed machine, when transitioning between 301 & 304, is the lock exists in the center of the work piece, but the bobbin thread has some degree of slack going into each stitch or at minimum, inconsistent. What I find interesting is that this phenomenon exists on every 20u I've used, mine or others. I've relined canopies using 20u's with a local DPRE, and his 'hack' on his machine was to increase to top thread tension to the point of being difficult to remove the work piece. I thought this was normal until I used the Pfaff 138 ~ which keeps consistent tension as you transition between 301 and 304.=========Shaun ========== Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shredex 0 #22 April 2, 2014 Got the machine today. Been playing with some seams and found the one I'd like to use on some freefly shorts I'm going to eventually make. Just practicing with the thread/needle it came with(unknown thread type/size and #14 needle) It seems to be doing a great job going through the layers of Supplex(Taslan) and Spandex. I'm wondering if I should even use the Dual Duty/#69/E thread with 110/18 needle for these shorts? I'll be getting the #18 needle tomorrow so I cant do some tests then. Hopefully it's not too large for the fabric... Attached is a picture of the seam. Turquoise = Spandex White = Taslan/Supplex One of the first projects I'll be doing is making a stash bag for my BASE rig. I've got ripstop nylon, but I read somewhere to use #12 needle on the stuff. But will the smaller thread hold up? Will #18 needle work on RS Nylon? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jumpsalot-2 3 #23 April 2, 2014 Consider using "ball point" needles on ripstop nylon, they push thru rather than rip thru. You can use your #69 thread with other smaller needles (14,16) if you want. If it'll go thru the "eye" , it'll be good to sew with.Life is short ... jump often. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
councilman24 37 #24 April 2, 2014 I have to disagree about needle size. It's not whether it gets through the eye it's whether it's "hidden" in the groove to form the loop for the hook to catch. E thread actually works better with a 19 or 20 but your machine will probably only take up to an 18. Some of the reference spec a 19 for it. But you do need at least the 18. One key to easy sewing is to keep a good, read new, needle in the machine. Needles do not last forever. Especially if you hit something with it. Don't sew over pins. When ever you sit down to start something new put in a new needle. Buy them mail order to cut the cost significantly. Also don't forget that presser foot pressure is adjustable. Parachute construction and patches on ripstop parachutes are routinely done with e thread which requires an 18 or 19 needle. Using a 12 is not realistic. Its the thread that determines the needle size not the material. We use that same needle.and e thread to sew F111 and 6 layers of 1" type for to make a toggle nose. Some bad advice there.I'm old for my age. Terry Urban D-8631 FAA DPRE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shredex 0 #25 April 2, 2014 From sewing with my dual duty thread in a #14 needle last night, I'd have to agree. Not only was it struggling to fill the holes, but the thread was coming undone at the needle hole and bunching up. Kinda like skinning the thread down to a thinner size. I'll be getting some more needles today. I've read that a needle will last 12-20 hours of work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
