gweeks 1 #1 March 13, 2017 On the 20u there is a smaller wheel inside the hand wheel that you can use to disengage the needle. When the needle is disengaged the hand wheel spins freely. When the needle is engaged turning the hand wheel moves the needle up and down. However on my machine when the needle is engaged and I try to sew through something heavy the hand wheel moves but it can't push the needle through the material. It spins freely as if it were disengaged. The only way I can get the needle through the material is to push it down by hand. It seems like one of the parts of the mechanism to disengage the needle might be worn. Has anyone ever had this issue with a 20u or similar machine? Any thoughts on how to fix it? This happens even with a new needle and the material isn't overly thick. One example is trying to sew a BOC pouch on, so 2 layers of binding tape, a layer of cordura and a layer of spandex. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gowlerk 2,191 #2 March 13, 2017 Behind the the small wheel there is a washer with 3 ears. It can be installed wrong way around, but usually the hand wheel will just freewheel if that is the case. Try rotating it half a turn then put the screw back in. The screw only allows you to turn the knob a half turn. The threads may not be engaging tightly enough with the washer in that position. Just experiment, there are only two possible positions. (well four if you include washer backwards, but you'll know immediately that it's wrong) If you completely remove and leave out the screw you can tighten the whole thing as much as you want. But that leaves open the possibility of the assembly losing parts.Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gb1 3 #3 March 13, 2017 The disengage feature is for winding bobbins without rotating the rest of the machine. Take it apart and clean it. Is your needle too big for the density of the material? There is a happy medium between the density of material and needle size. Needle too light will break. Needle too fat, takes alot of effort to penetrate and may run hot. Good Luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gweeks 1 #4 March 13, 2017 Thank you both! I took the stop motion clamp screw off, cleaned it, cleaned the hand wheel and cleaned the three-eared wassher and put it all back together. I found a very helpful blog post with good pictures that explained how to put the 3 eared washer back in the right way: https://oldsingersewingmachineblog.com/2012/03/05/the-handwheel-or-balance-wheel-on-a-vintage-singer-and-the-stop-motion-or-clutch-part-one/ After all that, even with the stop motion clamp screw tightened the whole way my machine still slips without much resistance. I'll order some smaller needles (I was using 18/110 so I'll try 16/100). I think I'm also going to get a new hand wheel and stop motion parts because the whole mechanism seems to rely on friction and perhaps my parts are a bit worn. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gb1 3 #5 March 13, 2017 size 16 is light. Wear safety glasses when trying them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
councilman24 37 #6 March 14, 2017 As above noted 16 needles are really too small for E thread. While 18 are often listed I find 19 or 20 work well. A thinner needle is not the answer to this problem and may lead to other stitch issues.I'm old for my age. Terry Urban D-8631 FAA DPRE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gweeks 1 #7 March 14, 2017 Thanks for the tip. I'll go the other way and try some bigger needles. Anyone have a good source for 20u parts? I'm having trouble finding the handwheel and stop motion parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
councilman24 37 #8 March 14, 2017 http://www.unlimitedparts-usa.com/ owned by consew Henderson sewing Universal sewing Google last two. Part diagrams for numbers available.I'm old for my age. Terry Urban D-8631 FAA DPRE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,363 #9 March 14, 2017 Hi gweeks, Some info that might help: Mark Lancaster 2222 Buffalo-West Springs HiWay Buffalo, SC 29321 864-429-8428 skyworksparasvc@aol.com Henderson Sewing Machine P. O. Box 967 Andalusia, AL 36420 800-824-5113 marty@hendersonsewing.com Ralph's Ind. Sewing Machine Company 2030 Clay Street Denver, CO 80211 1-800-525-0330 Miami Industrial Sewing Machines 16501 N.E. 15th Avenue North Miami Beach, FL 33162 1-800-890-1217 www.miamisewing.com indsew1@aol.com Singer Sewing Products 1224 Heil Quaker Blvd. Lavergne, TN 37086 1-877-738-9869 customerservice@singerco.com Pfaff Industrial of America 2200 Norcross Pkway, #280-A Norcross, GA 30071 1-800-731-7545 parts@pfaff-industrial.us.com Jerry Baumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gweeks 1 #10 March 14, 2017 Thank you both for the leads! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrigger1 2 #11 March 14, 2017 Quote After all that, even with the stop motion clamp screw tightened the whole way my machine still slips without much resistance. I'll order some smaller needles (I was using 18/110 so I'll try 16/100). I think I'm also going to get a new hand wheel and stop motion parts because the whole mechanism seems to rely on friction and perhaps my parts are a bit worn. It sounds like the lock screw is hitting the ear BEFORE the washer gets tight between the locking knob and hand wheel. To test this theory, simply remove the screw and then tighten the locking knob as normal without the screw in the knob. This will let you know if you have to shim the gap between the locking knob and hand wheel. MELSkyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gweeks 1 #12 March 15, 2017 masterrigger1 It sounds like the lock screw is hitting the ear BEFORE the washer gets tight between the locking knob and hand wheel. To test this theory, simply remove the screw and then tighten the locking knob as normal without the screw in the knob. This will let you know if you have to shim the gap between the locking knob and hand wheel. MEL Thanks for the tip. I did tighten the locking knob as much as I could without the stop screw in place and the hand wheel still slipped without much resistance. Can you explain more about shimming the gap between the locking knob and hand wheel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
masterrigger1 2 #13 March 15, 2017 Quote Can you explain more about shimming the gap between the locking knob and hand wheel? Sure... The concept of the locking knob is to create an interference against the washer enough to basically lock the handwheel to the shaft. If the handwheel is not "locked down" to the shaft and is slipping, it is simply a matter of not creating enough interference against the washer. This means that the knob is not bottoming out against the washer and is bottoming out against something else like the end of the crankshaft to the inside of the Tension knob. By adding a shim washer, this should resolve the problem. Send me a photo or two of the crankshaft end and the inside of the Tension knob if you can. MELSkyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gweeks 1 #14 March 15, 2017 Makes sense. Thank you. I guess it's just a matter of finding the right size washer. I'll put the pictures here in case it helps anyone else. [inline IMG_7213.JPG] Fully assembled [inline IMG_7215.JPG] Knob off. Washer in place. [inline IMG_7216.JPG] Knob and washer off. [inline IMG_7217.JPG] Washer front. [inline IMG_7218.JPG] Washer back. [inline FullSizeRender.jpg] Knob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
