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Can I ask what your exit weight is?
Could they define what this means?
And why did they, and you think so?
QuoteInformed me that the canopy flew big
Could they define what this means?
QuoteWe spoke some more and determined that a 150 might actually be my best bet.
And why did they, and you think so?
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You're not as good as you think you are. Seriously.
You're not as good as you think you are. Seriously.
Quote
QuoteWe spoke some more and determined that a 150 might actually be my best bet.
And why did they, and you think so?
Well, it depends on your goals. As long as they are stated and known then that's fine, IMHO.
Quoteyes i know i wasn't "suposed" to roll the nose... but i was trying to see if anything was going to get it to open better.
not sure if aggie got the same one... i'll pm him and ask
Was it white with black Double Diamonds and Blue ribs?
If so, that's no Comp but, it is the one that I got 50/50 on the openings and a great time at 12 & 0 mph ground winds.
The simpler I packed-the better it opened.
And that's why I got the COmp(Still waiting).---ALL mods included, no after market hackin' & stichin'
_______________________________
If I could be a Super Hero,
I chose to be: "GRANT-A-CLAUS". and work 365 days a Year.
http://www.hangout.no/speednews/
If I could be a Super Hero,
I chose to be: "GRANT-A-CLAUS". and work 365 days a Year.
http://www.hangout.no/speednews/
pliz 0
Quoteyes i know i wasn't "suposed" to roll the nose... but i was trying to see if anything was going to get it to open better.
As it worked for me too, putting the nose too far away will get some off-heading or hard openings. The idea of the 2-stage opening is that the 3 center cells will inflate under slider, slowing freefall down. Then, at the already lowered speed the outer 4 cells will be inflated. If you try to put the nose too far inside the packjob you can get too much air NOT into the nose, but into the tail and into (or under) uninflated outer cells, causing 1-stage opening without pre-slowing freefall speed down. It will be really hard... trust me... The same thing may (and will) happens, when you try to grab the risers.
Tail rolling is important for first stage of opening, more and much tight rolling will make snivel longer.
I've got one of my most hard openings when i touched the riser with camera box mounted on left side of helmet.
A'm happy with CC105 (about 300 jumps @ 1,75) now i'm waiting to get a new CC95 just in a few weeks.
QuoteQuoteyes i know i wasn't "suposed" to roll the nose... but i was trying to see if anything was going to get it to open better.
As it worked for me too, putting the nose too far away will get some off-heading or hard openings. The idea of the 2-stage opening is that the 3 center cells will inflate under slider, slowing freefall down. Then, at the already lowered speed the outer 4 cells will be inflated. If you try to put the nose too far inside the packjob you can get too much air NOT into the nose, but into the tail and into (or under) uninflated outer cells, causing 1-stage opening without pre-slowing freefall speed down. It will be really hard... trust me... The same thing may (and will) happens, when you try to grab the risers.
Tail rolling is important for first stage of opening, more and much tight rolling will make snivel longer.
I've got one of my most hard openings when i touched the riser with camera box mounted on left side of helmet.
A'm happy with CC105 (about 300 jumps @ 1,75) now i'm waiting to get a new CC95 just in a few weeks.
This makes perfect sense to me and it explains why I get nice openings from just leaving the nose hanging there and doing nothing with it.
I am pretty sure most people here know that I used to be an Atair guy. I had consistently great openings with every one of my own mains and my two competition mains, pretty much trash packing all the time. That said, I did have the opportunity to evaluate some incredibly hard opening stock cobalts in sizes 105 and 170. Generally, just leaving the nose out on these "problem" canopies helped, but there were instances where even my standard pack would rattle my teeth. In each and every one of these cases it's my opinion that an H-mod was the best cure. That and maybe a bigger slider. I cannot say that the problem is systemic because I checked the trim and stitching on each of those smackers and found no problem. As has been previously stated in this thread: every single manufacturer has problems with a few of their canopies per year. When those rare problems DO occur, it's up to the manufacturer to deal with them in both a truthful, analytical and expeditious manner less they reap the wrath of their consumer base and it's, sometimes, mob mentality. Some manufacturers are better equipped to deal with such occurences and keep their good name. Others simply fold and/or reorganize when the pressure proves too much. Many parachute manufacturers simply keep their focus on the much-more lucrative and far-less hassle military market. Make no mistake: sport parachute sales are a gnat's ass of the total parachute market.
Back to the packing: I firmly believe that stuffing the nose back on a Cobalt is a bad idea that can only negate the "two-staged opening". For that matter, I believe that stuffing the nose on any parachute is a bad idea. Just my opinion, but I have brilliant openings on every canopy I own and have owned since my old monarch.
Chuck Blue
D-12501
Back to the packing: I firmly believe that stuffing the nose back on a Cobalt is a bad idea that can only negate the "two-staged opening". For that matter, I believe that stuffing the nose on any parachute is a bad idea. Just my opinion, but I have brilliant openings on every canopy I own and have owned since my old monarch.
Chuck Blue
D-12501
QuoteCould they define what this means?
Since a bunch of us were just talking about this last weekend I'll give it a try.
I fly a Cobalt 150 I rented a rig with a Sabre2 150 which I jumped a couple of times and I was kinda pissed that the Sabre2 was noticably faster and needed less toggle input(not much but it was less). Also one of the jumpers at my DZ went from a Sabre2 120 to a Cobalt 105 and she says they fly about the same. I didn't riser carve on the Sabre2 but flying straight in it is more like a Cobalt 135.
IMO the Cobalt flies one size bigger then most comparable 9 cell semi or fully elliptical canopies of the same size(note this is just an opinion based on the feedback of the 6-10 jumpers who have Cobalts at my DZ and is in no way scientific)
QuoteQuoteCould they define what this means?
Since a bunch of us were just talking about this last weekend I'll give it a try.
I fly a Cobalt 150 I rented a rig with a Sabre2 150 which I jumped a couple of times and I was kinda pissed that the Sabre2 was noticably faster and needed less toggle input(not much but it was less). Also one of the jumpers at my DZ went from a Sabre2 120 to a Cobalt 105 and she says they fly about the same. I didn't riser carve on the Sabre2 but flying straight in it is more like a Cobalt 135.
IMO the Cobalt flies one size bigger then most comparable 9 cell semi or fully elliptical canopies of the same size(note this is just an opinion based on the feedback of the 6-10 jumpers who have Cobalts at my DZ and is in no way scientific)
Does this mean that, essentially, the Cobalt is a more "efficient" wing? I am hesitant to use the word efficient, but that seems to be what you are suggesting (?).
Personally, one of the things I love about my Cobalt is the range - it can float really well but it can also dive like crazy (when I want it to ;-)
andy2 0
chuck, on the hard opening cobalts did you notice any other difference with the inflight performance while flying these canopies? Or were the canopies indentical except for the opening stages?
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let my inspiration flow,
in token rhyme suggesting rhythm...
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let my inspiration flow,
in token rhyme suggesting rhythm...
No, they all flew like they were supposed to, which is to say great. I could never figure out a reason for the opening disparity. On a related note, our demo team, and those of the Golden Knights, had very similar problems with a batch of our StarTrac mains. The older ones we had, which it is said were cut from the same CAD templates opened like a dream. Unfortunately, our entire new batch, plus those of the GK's, "came off our backs open." Why? Who knows. Not us nor the manufacturer. They flew the same but the openings destroyed not less than six sliders and three mains. on our team. The fix: a simple nose mod on the center three cells. Was this a "patch?" Certainly, but it worked flawlessly and we accepted that as a solution. A similar patch for hard opening Cobalts is the H-mod. A further patch for still-hard-opening Cobalts is more of a nose mod, just like the one on CC's and FireBolts.
andy2 0
i am understanding it right that this "patch" is more of a win-win situation as the overall rigidity of the canopy is increased adding performance to the swoop?
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let my inspiration flow,
in token rhyme suggesting rhythm...
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let my inspiration flow,
in token rhyme suggesting rhythm...
Correct, but it's at your own cost.
The cobalt I was jumping this weekend did have the H mod, which Atair said made it like the Competition Cobalt, just that it was an after production modification.
I'll have a Crossfire2 for 2 weekends this week
I'll have a Crossfire2 for 2 weekends this week
<--- See look, pink dolphins DO exist!
roq 0
That I know about my experience with cobalts and Impulse canopys is the following:
-The most important for to have a soft opening is the placement of the slider quartered and 3 " out of the nose of the cell of the center.
-For to have symmetrical opening is better to stay to open the nose of the center cell and to rotate the four outside cells 1/2 turn for inside (not for inside the center cell).
-No to push the nose all inside of the pack job. It should be pushed the nose lightly inside, only for adjust and to stay centered the nose but not put the nose inside of the pack job.
-To -rotate the tail just not more 4ou 5 turns.
-To -place everything very symmetrical inside of the bag
-With this process I never had an opening hard!!!
-And with it pack job I need to put a small slider in my canopys with nose H-Mod type (roq-mod) for to had normal openings and not super slow openings!!!
Roq
-The most important for to have a soft opening is the placement of the slider quartered and 3 " out of the nose of the cell of the center.
-For to have symmetrical opening is better to stay to open the nose of the center cell and to rotate the four outside cells 1/2 turn for inside (not for inside the center cell).
-No to push the nose all inside of the pack job. It should be pushed the nose lightly inside, only for adjust and to stay centered the nose but not put the nose inside of the pack job.
-To -rotate the tail just not more 4ou 5 turns.
-To -place everything very symmetrical inside of the bag
-With this process I never had an opening hard!!!
-And with it pack job I need to put a small slider in my canopys with nose H-Mod type (roq-mod) for to had normal openings and not super slow openings!!!
Roq
(my question was more of a retorical question, I know the H-mod does that, I was proving a point
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