Canon Rebel EOS Set Up

[SkyFlyer 0]

I just bought a Canon EOS Rebel 2000 with an EF28-80 lens. I was told several different settings to select to jump it including placing the command dial to "Tv" and auto setting the shutter speed. I also noticed that the lens does not have an "infinity setting" and wonder if the auto focus capability will work. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[SniperCJ 0]

First, ditch the 28-80 lens and get a fixed 28. Its shorter and will more closely approximate what you see thru your video camera.

Second, burn some film with different settings, recording the settings you used and see what you get.

Full auto mode will work. I tried it out the other day and got some really good shots.

One guy at our DZ uses full manuel, 500 at 5.6 and he gets some great exposures. I usually use 350 at 11 and set the focus for about 4 ft (for tandem shooting). 11 gives me a pretty wide range of focus.

Ive also used the Av and Tv modes letting the camera set either the shutter speed or the aperature.

Give it a whirl and have fun.

JC

[SkyFlyer 0]

Thanks. I was concerned about the auto-focus feature causing a problem but that doesn't an issue.

[Zlew 0]

I bet you can find good info if you search this forum, i know tihs has all been coverd before.

I use the P setting. It makes everything autio, but doesn't use the flash. you don't neeed a fast shutter speed because it's all realative....as long as you keep it above 1/30/ to 1/60 you will have crisp photos.

[freekflyguy 0]

Quote

First, ditch the 28-80 lens and get a fixed 28. Its shorter and will more closely approximate what you see thru your video camera.

I have a .4 lens on my PC8 matched to a 19 - 35mm Tokina (set to 19) lense on my EOS 500.

I have a 24mm fixed focus which is close to my .5 lens but dont need to use it with the 19 - 35.

I also focus just shy of infinity, with the camera set to TV 500, and get nice shots.

One thing to try is different film ISO, I have been using 200 but 60 x 40's come out looking grainy. I will try out 100 and 50 when we eventually start jumping again.

Mind you it all depends on what you are filming, I dont need a .4 for 4way. Not unless I wanna ghost a slot

Buzz

It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice.

[newshooter12 0]

Where are you getting your hands on 50 asa/iso? I love shooting 25 if I could get some around here I'd be happy. I haven't seen any in photoshops near me for a couple years.
thanks
matt

[freekflyguy 0]

I havent tried sourcing any yet, but there are a number of specialist camera shops in town.

I wasn't aware that there was adifficulty finding slower films!!

What settings do you use at ISO25?

Buzz

It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice.

[murrays 0]

Rule of thumb for bright daylight exposures:
f16 @ 1/Film ASA or
f16@ 1/25 ...use closest i.e. 30
f11@ 1/60
f8@ 1/125
f5.6@ 1/250

--
Murray

"No tyranny is so irksome as petty tyranny: the officious demands of policemen, government clerks, and electromechanical gadgets." - Edward Abbey

[newshooter12 0]

Murrays right on... 25 asa for bright sunlight I remember being between 1/30th to 1/60th. Not sure of the aperature b/c I'd run Matrix metering mode on my Nikon, but I do know it was close to the edges of my slow 35-80mm lens.

I love shooting night exposures with it. Up to 5 minute exposures and the colors are great. Or close/macro shots that you can blow up to poster size without getting grainy.

I had a photo store owner tell me that Kodak wasn't making 25 anymore. Since then I really haven't been looking hard. Still can't find it when I check occasionally.
matt

[bmcd308 0]

B & H carries Konica 50.

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www.jumpelvis.com

[Zlew 0]

For jumping i think you would get too much shake at 1/30th. I can pull it off free hand when i control my breathing and brace the camera well... but i thikn it would blurr in freefall. Dont know for sure, haven't tried it. but wold be worth looking into.

Z

[Cajones 0]

I have been seeing less and less low speed films. I've heard reasons such as low demand (it seems that more people are shooting slide film than ever, just for the awesome color), and pains about the developers for really low speed films high-toxicity. Not sure if its some kind of workplace safety/liability problems, or disposal/enviro-issues sort of problems. It'll be interesting to see someone compare the new EOS super-megapixel camera at ISO50 compared to 35mm ISO50.

The laws of physics are strictly enforced.

[murrays 0]

Hi Z,
The Rule of Thumb is a reminder of how to calculate exposures if you are ever left with a meter less camera that you could still operate manually. These days, a pretty small chance that would ever happen as everything is all electronic. I used a manual camera for my stills back in the dark ages when I jumped camera so I was always doing these calculations in my head after I trashed the meter on my OM-1 by leaving it mounted on the strut of a jump plane for about 3 weeks. A bit too much vibration for the old girl Still a handy thing to know if you want to lock in your depth of field and use aperture priority as you can then figure what the shutter speed will be for an aperture/ASA combination. This always used to be on the little info sheets inside boxes of film. These sheets always gave you the adjustment for cloudy bright overcast, dark overcast, etc.
Speaking of slow shutter speeds, something I tried to do a couple of times but always had equipment problems was to shoot at very slow shutter speeds like 1/8th or maybe even slower at dusk while using fill flash. I think you could get some cool effects filming a person or group that is turning/rotating very quickly...when the first shutter curtain comes across, the flash goes off, lighting up the person and "freezing" them, their continued movement leaves blurs off this image. I think it would capture some of the movement in a still image.
I've seen some stills using fill at dusk but only with fast flash sync shutter speeds which freezes everything. They're nice too but I wish my attempts had worked - my flash always failed.

--
Murray

"No tyranny is so irksome as petty tyranny: the officious demands of policemen, government clerks, and electromechanical gadgets." - Edward Abbey

[Zlew 0]

You could do some really cool things with that man. with faster film you could make them appear to be in total darkness/void, but their pic be very clean. Do the same thing with faster film slower speed with slow sync. flash whith the dusk in the background... could be pretty wicked. 2nd curtin flash could be cool as well if they were spinning. Some things i want to try out some day.

Z