Opinions on my 1st camera setup

[JJ269J 0]

Just wanted to get some opinions. This is the preliminary setup. I set am going to add a Cam eye ll, and a quick release system. I am using a canon ZR45MC ( not the usual sony, I know). I had to use the camera to take the pics, but I post a pic w/the camera when I can.

[D22369 0]

I dont know if its the camera angle, lighting or what, but it looks like the mount is spaced out away from the helmet quite a bit in a couple of those pics, you will want it in as close as you can get it....... make sure you pad the back side of the mount so if the riser makes contact with it during deployment it wont damage the riser.....Keep in mind that now you will have an additional snag hazard and practice your emergency procedures to accomodate the gear, Also investing in an audible altimeter is a wise idea.
other than that.....get the cameye and the release.........have fun!!!!

Roy

They say I suffer from insanity.... But I actually enjoy it.

[JJ269J 0]

It is spaced at most an inch. It looks more because I put gaffers tape over the seam where the spacer meets the aluminum plate, and then there is about an inch of foam that compresses with the cam installed. I do have a Pro-Dytter inside the helmet already.

[jimmytavino 16]

.........

.... looks kinda "snag-able"....

[sunman 0]

I'm gonna have to agree with everyone else on this one. It doesn't look good. Get rid of all unnecessary space between the camera and the helmet, even if it's only an inch. An inch is A LOT when we're talking about a riser strike. Why have all that junk that just puts the camera (and your life) in harm's way? If I were you I'd remove everything you have and just put an L-bracket or a D-box in it's place. Or better yet, get an actual camera helmet with a flat side. But since you're using a Canon, I'm assuming that your trying to do this on a budget. Just consider the options. Bonehead D-box can replace everything you have for about $175. A bonehead L-bracket (they are NICE, just got one for my optik, and it comes with everything you need) is only $75. If you do that I would recommend blocking off what little space there is with some sort of thick, high strength epoxy so the riser can't wedge in there.

Take my advice for what it's worth. I tried to go cheap on my first setup and I had a camera come off my head at 3000 feet. My friends recovered it the next day and get this - it still works! But mine was a Sony, so I don't think you would be that lucky (no offense). Needless to say, I'll never jump anything but a Sony, and I'll only put it on a high quality camera helmet.

[JJ269J 0]

Thanks everyone, for the input. I have remade the spacer. Now the only piece is an 1/8th inch plate bolted to the helmet, and then to the camera mount. This is so I can adjust the vertical view. Here is a pic of the before and after. It reduced the width by more than an inch.

[quade 4]

Better, but ultimately YOU have to decide whether or not YOU want to jump it.

I personally don't like side-mounts, but I know plenty of folks that do.

Did you already mention what you plan on shooting video for? Tandems, fun, RW, team stuff?

quade -
The World's Most Boring Skydiver

[JJ269J 0]

At this stage in my jumping(just over 200 jumps), its pretty much for fun, and learning. I want to try to come up with a way to make a d-box maybe, but I don't want to add anymore width to it.

[Billy 0]

Looks wide still to me,,
Can you try it out first in a something like a hanging harness and see how well you can move your head around. Riser strikes on opening and losing a camera are one thing, snagging has been mentioned also... not being able to rubber neck your landing approach is another all together.
Good Luck!

Natural Born FlyerZ.com

[D22369 0]

Looks better, still sticks out quite a bit though..... what are the dimensions of the camera? from the mount, it appears to be pretty large, have you considered mounting it on the top? that would eliminate the possibility of a riser tearing it off your head......**note**-- this is assuming you dont get reeeeaaal creative on deployment

Billy has a great idea, sitting in the hanging harness will give you an idea of the restrictions you will have wearing a side mount...

Good luck;
Roy

They say I suffer from insanity.... But I actually enjoy it.

[JJ269J 0]

Thats a good idea, I will try the harness thing. The camera's dimensions are approx. 5"L X 3.75"H X 2"D. I have includeda pic of the L bracket that came with the helmet. I made the C bracket to give the camera a litter more protection, but maybe it was at the expense of my own safety. I have also included a pic of the camera I got off the web. Mine is a zr45mc, but the look identical. As always I thank everyone for there opinion.

Justin

[Deuce 1]

My man, one of the mounting points simply has got to be flush with the helmet.

On that L bracket, one of the mounting points should be directly in contact with the helmet, (bolt head/L-bracket/helmet/washer/nut) and you can shim the other three (bolt head/L-bracket/shim/helmet/washer/nut)

[jimoke 0]

whats up bro,
I am also a top-mount video guy.......riser strikes are a serious hazard. It looks by all the photos that you have made some progress. 3.5" is about the max it should stick out from the helmet. when your parachute starts its linestretch the risers are not going to give much clearance. line twist is going to give you less.
when you wear a side mount the weight tends to lean your head in that direction as well. I know that side mounts probably out-number top-mounted cameras, especially with freeflyers. but, I have seen many freeflyers flying top mounts as well.
welcome to the world of camera flying......It is not a typical jump.
Have fun , stay safe
Jim Oke

The ground always, remembers where you are!

[JJ269J 0]

O.K. That would be better, but how would I go about adjusting the camera's view (as far as vertically?), or do I adjust it the way it is, do some measuring and hope I get it right?

I know I should just buy a real camera helmet, however being a full time collage student, funds are short supply.

Thanks again guys! I'll get this thing right before it kills me.

Justin

[Deuce 1]

The bottom front, or bottom rear are likely to be good full contact points. Check the forums for sighting suggestions. It's probably the bottom rear. Bolt that up.

Then look at a point about 20 feet away, mark it ( you do the metric ) and have a freind move your head in the helmet until you are in agreement. Then shim the helmet to match what you are looking at with what your sighter agrees with.

This is definitely on the cheap. I'd prefer a ringsight and a laser sight, but it will get you started.

[D22369 0]

I'll get this thing right before it kills me.


-->Camera jumps are taken way too lightly by most people........ Keep an open mind and absorb as much info as you can from any experienced camera flyers at your dz. practice ditching the camera (simulating a snag) untill it is second nature, When the shit hits the fan Gear can be replaced.....know exactly where the release is, visualize your worst nightmare.....snagged, corkscrewing spiral of death.... You cant cutaway before the camera goes away, cause then you would be suspended from a deflated main by your helmet........A little bit of practicing could save your life...........I almost never see camera flyers practicing this
Dont go low......give yourself enough time to cutaway and get stable before pulling.........
The old saying still applys - an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure..... practice is the prevention......

Have fun, be safe;
Roy

They say I suffer from insanity.... But I actually enjoy it.

[JJ269J 0]

I would be able to attach the bracket flat at the bottom front and top front. I tried the rear, but the curvature on the helmet is to much. It angles the camera to far out, and I would not be able to compensate by rotating the camera back in. I know I want to eliminate the gap (which is small now, about 3/8") so the riser cannot slide in there and get hung up. I was thinking of using some A B epoxy. You mix the two parts and it has a working time of a few minutes so you can shape it how you want it. When it dries it can be sanded painted, or whatever. I think that would fill in what little gap still remains. I will also be able to move the whole mount forward on the helmet about another inch, so I think that will help too.