swooper120 0 #1 November 20, 2003 So I got my Canon Rebel 2000 mounted on my BatRAk..cool everything works out..Search these forums and print some of the posts about the settings..set the camera and do some trial and error.. Here is the setting I used, TV, 350, let the camera assign the rest..have the original lens..35x80..400 FILM...I set the camera to manual focus and manually focused the camera based on the distance I planned to be in freefall and went and made my skydive. I took all the pics and they came out blurry..??? What should I try next? The manual tells some info and recommended settings, but we are talking Freefall speeds here. Anyone out there using a Rebel 2000 who wants to post their setting and tips, this young photo wannabe would be appreciative!!! Also, any other tips would be cool. FYI - planning on buying the 24mm wide angle lens..just want to get the camera figured out first!! Thanks in advance Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeremyneas 0 #2 November 20, 2003 are you using auto or manual focus? the 2000 doesn't have a really fast auto focus motor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swooper120 0 #3 November 20, 2003 sorry man..I set the camera to manual focus Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pattersd 0 #4 November 20, 2003 my settings: tv 250 100 speed film (or 200 occasionally) 24mm lens manual focus set short of infinity (anything from 3-4 feet to infinity is in focus for most apertures the camera selects while on a jump, except sunset jumps) gaffers tape to hold the focus ring in place no out of focus problems Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skydivexxl 0 #5 November 20, 2003 Quotemy settings: tv 250 100 speed film (or 200 occasionally) 24mm lens manual focus set short of infinity (anything from 3-4 feet to infinity is in focus for most apertures the camera selects while on a jump, except sunset jumps) gaffers tape to hold the focus ring in place no out of focus problems Very similar to mine: TV 500 200 Film 28mm lens the rest is the same... no problem in most lighting situations... but I still haven't mastered the lower light times without a flash (need my Flat top!) Blog Clicky Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmcd308 0 #6 November 20, 2003 The degree to which the focus ring needs to be in the correct spot for a given shot depends on two things - the focal length of the lens and the aperture setting. In general, longer focal length means that focus needs to be more precise at a given distance. You can't easily change your focal length, so we'll ignore that. While lots of people have great luck with Tv mode, they will admit that they are shooting either in full sunlight or with fast film (or both). These make the camera select a smaller aperture (bigger number on the display), which decreases the sensitivity of the shot to the focus setting on the lens. If I were you, I would slow the shutter speed down a little (125 will be fine), since 400 film is about as fast as you want to go without things getting grainy on you. The next thing to remember is that for every focal length and aperture combination, there is a focus setting called the hyperfocal setting, where everything from a certain distance (the hyperfocal distance) to infinity will be in acceptable focus. Search for "hyperfocal distance calculator" on google and you'll find a bunch of these. As a rule of thumb, though, if you focus on infinity and then pull the focus back a little, you'll be close as long as the aperture is pretty small. Also, at 35mm, you are a little longer than most folks in terms of focal length for freefall, so you will have more focus problems than people with 24mm or 28mm lenses. Do what you can to stop the lens down, set the focus ring at the hyperfocal distance, and you should get better results. Brent ---------------------------------- www.jumpelvis.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jiggs 0 #7 November 21, 2003 Why pull back slightly from infinity?"Don't blame malice for what stupidity can explain." "In our sleep, pain that cannot forget falls drop by drop upon the heart and in our despair, against our will comes wisdom" - Aeschylus Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmfreefly 0 #8 November 21, 2003 I use TV 500, as I often find that 350 often has a little bit too much blur. You say you have 35x80 lens, but I cant find specs on the lens on the net.. but I assume it is like the 28-90s that are being packaged with the newer rebels. Those lenses have a minimum f stop of 4 in its widest mode. That (in some cases) isn't fast enough to shoot 1/350 in mediocre light. I ended up getting a Sigma 24mm fixed, F1.8 lens. Nice and fast. Heavy, but can take some nice pics. The other aspect, that took me a while to get used to, is to pick your shots. When closing distance on a tandem, your shots are more likely to be blurry. when circling around that sitflyer, you are more likely to get blurry shots. all it takes is stopping for a split second while you take the shot. Often, on the way up to altitude, I will set the camera on P, and point it out the window with the shutter half pressed. I look at what settings the camera chooses, and if I see a shutter speed lower than 350, I figure there will probably be some lighting issues. Like someone suggested, go read up on focal distances and their relationships to f-stops. ADDITIONALLY, the effective depth of field changes as the subject gets farther away. That may not make sense.. but look at the focus scale on the lens. You will notice the marks showing (probably) F-11.. if you make the minimum at 3 feet, the maximum is probably only at 5 or 6 feet. But, if the minimum is at 6 feet, the maximum is probably infinity. This has to do basically with the grain of the film, how small a point your eyes /camera can discern,etc. etc. Basically, with my 24mm lens, with an fstop of 7-8, I have a depth of field of only about 2-3 feet when I am focused at something about 2 1/2 to 3 feet away (my usual tandem video distance).. all it takes is being outside that range, the sun going behind a cloud,etc. for this to make the picture a bit fuzzy. The flipside is also true.. get too close, and all of a sudden their face is out of focus, but their shoelaces are crisp and clear.. Hope that helps some.. j Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swooper120 0 #9 November 21, 2003 Thanks, all the information you guys have posted is excellent. I appreciate the info and time you took to post. Thanks -swooper120 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmcd308 0 #10 November 21, 2003 Hyperfocal distance is always less than infinity. Edited to Add - as you move the focus ring past the hyperfocal distance toward infinity, you are sharpening the focus on things that are far away more than you will be able to see in your prints (so getting no real benefit), while you are softening closer objects dramatically. Brent ---------------------------------- www.jumpelvis.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
garyharbird 0 #11 November 26, 2003 Hey guys I'm a full time cameraman at boston providence skydiving center, i use tv 500, 350 if it cloudy with 100 speed film, i have a sigma 24mm and set it at 4 ft, i get really nice pics this way. hope this helps Gary Harbird Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
