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Packing tips needed.

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I’m finally getting off my ass and making a consorted effort to take my packing skills to a working level and I have run into a few small problems/quirks. I am flying a Sabre 170 – 200ish Jumps, container is a Jav J3. I have been packing 3-4 times from start to finish for the last three days and plan on keeping up this pace until I can get to the DZ on Saturday and have someone check me out. Any tips hints would kick ass.

1. Arghh I need some tips on rolling the nose. I roll one side and it un-rolls when I try to roll the other side. I really have a problem rolling both sides without switching the canopy from one shoulder to the other. If seen people just roll all 9 cells together and push them to the center. What are the advantages or disadvantages of this?

2. I remember hearing something on Break Away about inducing a line over mal by dressing the cocooned canopy to much by pulling lines from the center. How much is too much, can you tell if you’ve pulled lines form the center. How could this cause a line over mal.

3. Getting the S-Folded canopy in the bag is getting easier every time. The thing is it does not look pretty once in the bag. The lines are in the center and everything is in there good, I just have to work the excess canopy into the bag. When I pull it out of the bag it seams to come out in the proper orderly order. Should this worry me, could this cause any problems?

I’m sure these are all difficult issues to address without watching me pack, and I need to get with a proficient packer to go over this, I am just trying to get familiar with as much as possible as soon as possible.

Thanks

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1) Don't roll the nose, if your Sabre opens hard, have a rigger put a pocket on the slider.

2) Use your knee to keep from pulling the steering lines around in front of the nose. Make 3-4 folds of the tail, just enough to cocoon it.

3) Sounds like you are doing fine. When you cocoon the canopy, make it at least 2 inches (more is better) wider than the D-bag. This will fill the corners of the D-bag and it will fit in the container easier. Also, try to put the bag around the canopy, instead of trying to stuff the canopy into the bag. Get the losking stows done, then get the rest of the canopy in the bag.

Make sure you place and keep the slider against the stops. Be careful of your toes getting on the lines when you are getting the air out and S-folding it. If you have a Kill-Line PC, cock the PC after you lay the canopy down and before you put it in the bag. Take the twists out of your steering lines evry pack job. If you have velcro toggles, after you land, put the toggles back on the velcro to keep the steering lines from getting torn up. Set you brakes with the steering line to the insides and the excess to the outsides. When you lay the risers in the container, that will put the excess at the bottom of the riser channel, keeping the excess steering line from sticking out from under the riser covers. Inspect as you pack.

Hook

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Skip:

1) When rolling the nose practice not switching shoulders, you'll get better as you go; trust me, I used to have the same problem. I would say the advantage of rolling each side equally is a more on heading opening.

2) When you cocoon, or borrito, the canopy, roll the tail 3 or 4 times MAX. Rolling it more will not only cause a lineover by drawing the lines to the outside and under the borrito, it will also cause line burns on the tail; another lesson I learned early on. When you borrito it don't roll the sides under. It might make it easier to control the canopy when trying to get it in the bag, but this too will cause a lineover by drawing your lines to the outside and under the borrito. Instead, gently bunch the canopy in the middle and wrap the sides around to meet under the borrito.

3) Don't worry how pretty your s-folding looks. As long as you make sure your lines stay where they should you'll be fine. The rest will come with practice.
Keith

Don't Fuck with me Keith - J. Mandeville

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Skip,

I agree with Hook...Don't roll the nose. Just press it into the center together, quarter slider solidly against the stops, and make small, tight rolls on the tail to keep the cocoon together while laying it down. As you already know, take care not to get so carried away rolling the tail as to pull the lines off center aound the other side.

If you want a little slower opening, you can pull your slider towards you slightly after quartering. The more it covers the nose, the slower the opening. Again, don't get carried away...it doesn't take much.

Some people are probably going to tell you that you are crazy if you don't roll the nose on a Sabre...don't listen to them. Everyone talks about Sabre being hard-opening canopies. I have about 400 jumps on an original Sabre, packed like I just described, and haven't been smacked yet.

Good Luck,
Rock

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I admit I have yet to jump or packa saber but I did just buy one. How do you lok yours? I have recieved mixed reviews on teh roling of the nose some swear by it some refuse to do it. From what I hear try both to figure it out and get ready to be smaked by one.

I have been packing for a few months now at teh DZ and hav found that when you rool the nose place the roll in your nees then do the same with the other cells (don't switch sholders) hold the rolls with your knees until you are ready to cocoon it up. When on the ground definatly bunch it up or even lift slightly fold teh cells up and in and then wrap the cocoon around. Also follow teh advice of pulling the bag over the canopy it help in the baging process and keeps it much cleaner.

Blus skys and when you find out what is the best way to pack the saber let me know.

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There is no need to roll the nose on any zp canopy...the rest is just practice. When bagging it, if you put your knees on the grommets of the
d-bag it keeps it from running away from you.

There is a packing tips class next saturday (April 5) at skydive san marcos after jump operations, if you feel like driving. It costs a six-pack of good beer, and will address the problems you're having.

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When bagging it, if you put your knees on the grommets of the
d-bag it keeps it from running away from you.



Placing your knees on the slider grommets can damage the slider (and your knees). Instead, place your knees just above the grommets, pinning the slider material in place, which holds the grommets against the stops.

Hook

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I was refering to the grommets on the d-bag, not slider. This is after you have the canopy s-folded and are ready to bag it. It pins the bag in place so it doesn't slide away from you as you put the canopy in the bag. Actually, I put my knees between (or beside) the grommets, as the grommets themselves hurt.

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Another tip to prevent a possible lineover:when you have the canopy all cocooned and laying on the floor. It should look like a mushroom or a V shape, right??? Well, get all the air out of it and get your d-bag layed out and ready to go. Instead of folding the material under to get the canopy sized for the bag...fold the excess material of the sides of the V shape on top of canopy itself. In essence you are now bringing the lines out from the front of the nose and around towards the back. Then, peak into the folds that you made and then you gently pull out the topskin of the canopy. Then wrap that around towards the nose or the part of the canopy that is lying on the ground. Make sense??? Its kinda difficult to describe. What I see a lot of people doing is that they are bringing the topskin around to the tailwraps and bringing the lines with it...potentially causing a lineover. Hope that helps.;)

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I do it with all different types of canopies...it can be a bit trickier with newer ZP, but once you get some practice...it sorts it out quite nicely. I just make sure that the tail is really tight around the lines and that I havent wrapped any lines in the tail wrapping process. If it is a smaller canopy or you happen to be taller, I wrap the tail, then press the air out of it while I have it over my shoulder....then wrap the tail more. It keeps everything together nicely.

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