sdctlc 0 #1 June 23, 2004 Ok I know its only an APS 24mm format but I have one lying around with a 22-55mm lens. It is not being used but when I did use it in the past (non-skydiving) it was great at getting good pics. I am thinking abouut mounting it on my camera helmet but figure I need a couple of things. First a different lens. I think the 22mm probably would be good but the zoom to 55 makes the lens long and I dont really need/want that for a freefall setting. What is a suggested lens to do skydiving shots?? Also I was wondering if setting it in a manual focus mode but in auto for the shutter. Is this the best way to go?? I can also only find a shutter cble that is 2' long. Any suggestions on getting a longer cable? or if I should get the standard cable and splice it for a length extension. I shoot video when I am asked and do a decent job. I am not usually the guy behind the camera though. I have been trying it more though and want to learn more to be better. But still photography seems to be an entirely different beast then video. Any good reading sites on the subject for skydiving or any "Start Here Settings" I should be thinking about? This Canon EOS IX Lite Camera is a full auto or full manual or about anywhere inbetween. Has anybody tried this camera? I know behind the times and all but I am not doing it as a pro or as my main skydiving direction but since I have the camera and want to get a better feel for it before sinking a bunch of money into the equiptment I might as well testwith what I already own.... Thanks Scott C."He who Hesitates Shall Inherit the Earth!" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmcd308 0 #2 June 23, 2004 Because your film is 24mm not 35mm, you are going to have a crop factor like on DSLRs, so you will probably want to go wider than you think. A 24mm lens on your 24mm film will be the same as a 35mm lens on 35mm film. Much of the vignetting associated with very wide lenses will be cropped out, however, so you should be able to get away with crappier 3rd party wide angles. Borrow a lens from someone who has a 10D and see how the angle of view works out and go from there. Brent ---------------------------------- www.jumpelvis.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sdctlc 0 #3 June 23, 2004 Quote A 24mm lens on your 24mm film will be the same as a 35mm lens on 35mm film. Much of the vignetting associated with very wide lenses will be cropped out, however, so you should be able to get away with crappier 3rd party wide angles. Borrow a lens from someone who has a 10D and see how the angle of view works out and go from there. Brent Trying to find a lens is not hard but the conversion factor with the 24mm is kinda interesting. Cant find much info on it online but looking. Any words from people out thre. My guess is that the 24mm size is going to be in the ballpark of the chip on the 10D. I was reading that the 22-55 is like a s8 to 80 or so when using a 35mm format. Also looks like I can go cheap with the Zenitar 16mm but then I have to manually do everything. Does that seem to be an overload in trying to get a shot? Again the Still land is a beast it seems to me but I am trying.... Any help out there??? Thanks Brent for the info. Scott C."He who Hesitates Shall Inherit the Earth!" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon2 2 #4 June 24, 2004 The conversion factor for APS is around 1.25 (for mosts DSLR's it's 1.5 or 1.6), but I think this number is based on H pictures. If you take C or P pictures you use less/more of the negative and the factor changes a little bit. To end up with a 24 mm equivalent you need a 19 mm lens, which doesn't exists as a fixed lens (I think). Maybe get a 19-35 mm zoom? Those aren't very expensive and I've seen 'm jumped... ciel bleu, Saskia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmcd308 0 #5 June 24, 2004 I think all the negatives on APS are H negatives. The C or P is just a piece of data on the negative that tells how to crop it for printing. The camera does not actually mask any of the negative. ---------------------------------- www.jumpelvis.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sabr190 0 #6 June 24, 2004 I had a IX Lite on my first camera helmet, this is just opinion, but I would chunk it and find a nice 35mm Rebel. I had to many problems to count, the color never seemed as good as 35mm and the lens conversion left alot to be desired, the huge display on the back of the camera lasted about 10 jumps before it cracked, frames per second were a litlle slow, ect. I think you can finda a Rebel G or X for a pretty reasonable price and have a lot better quality in the pics you shoot. This is JMHO "The needs of the many out weigh the needs of the few, or the one" - rehmwa Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon2 2 #7 June 24, 2004 OK so if you use another setting you use LESS of the negative, resulting in a smaller angle, either left-to-right or up-down. I know the negative is the 'whole' picture, so you can always reprint the negative using one of the other formats if you don't like the one you chose. I owned an IX7 for a while, nice little camera but shortly after I got my D30. Sold the IX7 after a while because it wasn't used anymore... The film I liked the most was the B&W 400 ASA film. It's not really B&W but monochrome color film, so no probs getting it developed however I always ended up with a bit of color in the pics, and never the same color, too Got a nice pic of our Grand Caravan somewhere that looks really old because of the greyish pic and high-ish ISO. It's a landscape pic, the only way to fit an airplane in a pic ciel bleu, Saskia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
