deegs123 0 #1 January 17, 2006 Have an FF2 and am going to top mount my Rebel XT. Can you video guru's tell me the best mounting hardware to use and why. Am looking at strobo and goldmember................. Thx in advance, TimCorvette Dude Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miami 0 #2 January 17, 2006 There is another option...see this thread. I just got 3 of Schumachers mounts (pictures of it in the 12th post of linked thread) and I must say they are very nice. Hope this helps...Miami Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deegs123 0 #3 January 17, 2006 Did you call the phone # (480)926-2127 or go to the web-site...........www.x-shut.com Thx Miami, Blues, TimCorvette Dude Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deegs123 0 #4 January 17, 2006 Went to the web No speaka german. Will the phone # get me to someone that can help?Corvette Dude Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miami 0 #5 January 17, 2006 X-shut makes a different type of quick release...not sure if it would be compatible with how we mount things on helmets. Call the number in the photo of the schumacher mount and ask for Terry.Miami Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brains 2 #6 January 17, 2006 QuoteThere is another option...see this thread. I just got 3 of Schumachers mounts (pictures of it in the 12th post of linked thread) and I must say they are very nice. Hope this helps... They are not on his site yet. http://www.sprinc.org/order.htm what did they cost?? Never look down on someone, unless they are going down on you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miami 0 #7 January 17, 2006 I think he said he is going to charge $90, but I'm not sure if that was a concrete number or not.Miami Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brains 2 #8 January 17, 2006 QuoteI think he said he is going to charge $90, but I'm not sure if that was a concrete number or not. I am sure it is worth it, he builds some very high quality stuff. Never look down on someone, unless they are going down on you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davelepka 4 #9 January 18, 2006 I reccomend the 1/4 inch bolt, with a lock washer (star or split, your choice). I've been jumping one for years, and it's bulletproof. I'm not sure how much they cost, or where to get one; I found mine in the maintenence hanger. Seriously, if your top mounting your still cam, you'll full access to it while it's mounted, and if you can spare 60 seconds, the 1/4 bolt is a 'quick enough' release. Glue a shim to the top of your helmet that rides along the back edge of the camera when it's properly aligned, and when you go to mount the camera, just snug it up to the shim, and tighten the bolt. Spend your $90 on something useful like hookers or booze, or maybe a tank of premium for the Vette. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveorino 7 #10 January 18, 2006 I really like my gold member. Easy access and I feel the camera is secure. No possible way for the camera to be knocked off a little bit to the side as with a bolt and washer. steveOrino Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davelepka 4 #11 January 18, 2006 Quoteway for the camera to be knocked off a little bit to the side as with a bolt and washer. Let me think, maybe that did happen once 2000 jumps ago. No wait, it didn't. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveorino 7 #12 January 18, 2006 So, I have an instructor at the DZ with 2000 jumps and no reserve rides. So I guess it could never happen. Are you saying a bolt and lock washer are as 100% as secure as a goldmember? He asked for an opinion, I gave mine. Why the smart ass response? steveOrino Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davelepka 4 #13 January 18, 2006 QuoteSo, I have an instructor at the DZ with 2000 jumps and no reserve rides. So I guess it could never happen. Yeah, I know a guy with 4000 jumps and no reserve rides. QuoteWhy the smart ass response? Obviously we've never met. But really, becasue your concern is unfoudned, and not a reason to spend $90 to hold a still cam to a helmet. I did reccomend a shim to maintain alignment, solving your problem. The only reason you need a quick release is if you're doing back to backs, where you have to add or subtract stills, and you have a running AC waiting for you. Otherwise, it's an expense you don't need (and the Op was fishing around for a cheaper still cam in another thread), as well as another piece of crap hanging off your helmet when you're not jumping stills. Additionally, it raises the camera up off the helmet, increasing the possibility for unwanted contact, and increasing the length of the lever arm that the camera puts on your neck. The only way to solve it is to sink the base of the quick release down into the helmet, a trick I haven't seen many folks pull off. The disclaimer is that this only applies to top mount (which the OP was askign about). FTP or other front mount guys are a different story. I guess I'm just old school, and go for as simple and light and home-made as possible. I'm also a big time smart ass, so please don't take offense. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveorino 7 #14 January 18, 2006 Quote I'm also a big time smart ass, so please don't take offense. None taken. Moving on. steveOrino Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Icon134 0 #15 January 18, 2006 Ok, this discussion has me curious... because in my opinion the helmet itself is the weakest point in the system (as for example mine is made from what appears to be fiberglass) I know the boneheads are made of Carbon Fiber (although when you drill a hole in it there are some issues) The stroboframe is manufactured of what appears to be steel. (and is supposedly rated to 6.5 lbs, which I assume is static weight) The Goldmember is made from aluminum (assume 6061 Aircraft Aluminum as it is low cost and fairly easy to manufacture its also high enough strength) I don't know what the Schumacher mount is manufactured from But with proper care and (a good eye, aka observing for unusual wear, bending, etc...) I would expect the helmet to tear out before the metal fails... I could look up numbers... but that'd be a lot like homework... This all assumes that the quick release mechanism isn't the failure point. I'd be curious to hear stories of jumpers that have "lost" camera equimpent and what failed to cause the loss...Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
piisfish 140 #16 January 18, 2006 QuoteI'd be curious to hear stories of jumpers that have "lost" camera equimpent and what failed to cause the loss...I lost a Rebel XT mounted on a Manfrotto plate and my PC8 which was in a Bonehead clamshell, but the equipment is NOT in cause.. Both were in my car when some b@stard stole them scissors beat paper, paper beat rock, rock beat wingsuit - KarlM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davelepka 4 #17 January 18, 2006 The trick to mounting anything to a helmet is to ensure that the helmet shell is thick enough, or use a large fender washer, or even an aluminum plate on the inside of the helmet, surrounding the hole. This will distribute the force across a larger area of the helmet, and away from the edge of the hole (most likley the weakest point). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Icon134 0 #18 January 18, 2006 ***This will distribute the force across a larger area of the helmet, and away from the edge of the hole (most likley the weakest point). *** I understand that...Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ast4711 0 #19 January 18, 2006 You maybe right, but I think, it may make a big difference how the plate is attached to the helmet. E.g. I use a manfrotto on a FF2 (carbon fibre). With the manfrotto you have to drill 2 holes in the helmet. If you place large washers inside the helmet it distributes the force much better than without washers. Honestly, I think it is impossible to tear out the plate out of my helmet. What puzzles me is the single screw that attaches the top plate to the camera... By the way: The top-mount on convetional helmet is not the perfect solution in my opinion. Too many snag points, less protection. A FTP is much better... alex -- www.tandemmaster.net www.skydivegear.de Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miami 0 #20 January 19, 2006 A long long time ago I lost a sidemounted pd-1 due to a riser strike during a horribly nasty opening. It was secured with the thumbscrew at the base and a pull up cord tied about midway up around the camera and plate (mainly to keep the screen from opening). Felt it bounce off my sternum but could not grab it (I think it was my 4th back to back so there were 4 un-dubbed videos on the tape counting the incident skydive). Got on the ground and the base of the camera was still bolted to the aluminum...all but the bottom half inch or so had ripped off and fallen into the Mississippi swamp, never to be seen again. I don't think of a quick release as added protection for securing my gear to my helmet, I see them as a way for me to pop my gear off when ever I want, either in the a/c, on the ground, where ever, and be able to pop it back on with very little delay. I prefer to take my cameras off in the a/c to video and take pics so this is a benefit for me.Miami Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pcalandra 0 #21 January 19, 2006 Let me add my .02 cents worth. I have never used anything but a 1/4" 20 thread bolt with an allen head and I have never had a problem. I keep an allenhead wrench with all my video stuff and I keep a small screwdriver with inerchangeable bits in my jumpsuit pocket along with a spare tongue switch, battery, tape & of course a bolt or two in case I loose one! It literally takes less than 30 seconds to take the camera off and put it back on. Front mounted to the plate on the bonehead it won't move back and forth. I've had a few openings hard enough to rip the helmet off the head (luckily I caught it) yet there wasn't any issue or failure associated with the bolt. It's really a personal choice, I can get to everything I need to except the battery without taking it off. Now having said that I'm thinking about putting my new Digital Rebel XT on top next to my camcorder and I haven't figured out how to get around the idea of a quick release for that setup, but I haven't given up yet! Sorry for the long post Pat Next time I'll use spell check apparently my typing skills suck tonight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrHips 0 #22 January 28, 2006 I met a guy last year who used this great mount and bracket system from a company called really right stuff. Here is the link for the canon 350 mount and bracket http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/body_plates/canon/index.html The really neat thing about this system is that you can mount the camera in the portait or landscape orientation with no modification. Also the bracket protects the remote switch plug. They also have conventional mounts like the Bonehead or Stroboframe (which I use, and swear by) that have built in Anti-Twist locating lugs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Icon134 0 #23 January 28, 2006 http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/body_plates/canon/index.html Made it a clickyLivin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pcalandra 0 #24 January 29, 2006 It does't lool like it's aqucik release, am I missing something? This would be really great if it had a quick release plate too that was secure! Pat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miami 0 #25 January 30, 2006 QuoteIt literally takes less than 30 seconds to take the camera off and put it back on. Front mounted to the plate on the bonehead it won't move back and forth. I've had a few openings hard enough to rip the helmet off the head (luckily I caught it) yet there wasn't any issue or failure associated with the bolt. It's really a personal choice, I can get to everything I need to except the battery without taking it off. You are definitely right, it is each person's choice. I like to pop the still off to take a few shots while they suit up, pop the vid off for a little interview before boarding, pop the still and vid off in the plane to shoot some stills/interview without having to maneuver my entire setup through a crowded plane, and finally pop the stills off again to take a post landing pic or two. Way too much screwing and unscrewing for my taste...and Schumachers mounts are light and low profile and work great!Miami Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
