Waycool Blue Eye Lens 0.45

[flylikeahandbag 0]

I wonder if anyone has come across this problem I have with this lens or similar lenses. I was using this lenses with a PC101, using it in manual focus. Everything would look in focus on the setup and play back when on the camera, but when played back on a larger screen some shots would be a little out of focus. I tried several times to adjust the focus even using a large screen, but it appears to be very sensitive to the focus setup up and unreliable IMO as I am now using the setup up for tandem video. I have reverted to my previous .5 Hama lens (uses infinity) and the problems have disappeared. I have also used a red eye .3 on this camera without any apparent problems (not a lot off jumps with it).

I would appreciate if anyone has any ideas. suggestions as to the cause.

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http://www.ukskydiver.co.uk

[Miami 0]

Are you adjusting the focus manually until it looks to be in focus?

A better way to get a good focus with this type of lens is to put your camera on auto focus (and zoomed all the way to wide), let the camera auto focus on an object that is well lit and in range of the subject you will be shooting (I usually use an open area that has object in many ranges to get a good infinity focus), then switch it back to manual. If you don't bump your focus ring (keep it taped down to avoid this), you should have a nice sharp focus for pretty much any distance. This is what I do with my way cool .3 and .25, and what I did with my .45 when I had it.
Hope this helps...

Miami

[flylikeahandbag 0]

Yes I was doing just that.

I will try your idea.

Thanks.

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http://www.ukskydiver.co.uk

[PhreeZone 20]

Using single element glass will make your lens behave like that. The focus point for a given spot will be a very small window. Best bet is to dial it in and tape it, or use autofocus.

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[MrHips 0]

Dont bother trying Autofocus. Single element lens's have a focal plane so defined it will hunt almost continually.

Use the focus on many subjects in a well lit environment method. That will work fine. Even better find something about the physical length away that your subject would normally be in freefall (something with lots of detail like a brick column or a tree with textured bark) and then make sure you have something behind that a long distance away, something with lots of edge detail like trees or buildings. If your camera is one of the newer Sony's you can use the Manual Focus Touch Screen in the menu to then automatically focus on the closer subject but also take into account the background items also. Once you have done this. Tape the focus ring in place. By the way you should make sure the exposure is set to 'Auto' before doing this. Then you can change back to sports, or beach & Ski or whatever you might normally use.