How to get "deep blues?"

[YISkyDive 0]

I was cruzing fencecheck.com and found some intresting skydiving pictures- and I was wondering if color-wise, I could recreate the same/ similar blues as the photographer that posted the followingimages.

Im using a 300D with 18-55 lens

http://www.fencecheck.com/forums/index.php/topic,3242.0.html

Thanks for the help-

[Stumpy 284]

A polarising filter will help, but it looks to me like there was some post processing in there as well.

Never try to eat more than you can lift

[The111 1]

That guy is a better photographer than me for sure, but I can get somewhat of the effect you are looking for ("deep blues") by adjusting saturation levels in Photoshop. Not sure if there are other methods, that is the only way I know to do it in my extremely limited toolset. I remember reading once that somebody said when they shot with 35mm film, there was a certain brand/type of film that would get cool images like these. Maybe lens has something to do with it too. I use 18-55 lens also and it's not known for being the best, although it certainly gets the job done.

I'm curious also what people think, as far as techniques used on the pictures in question... they are indeed GORGEOUS.

www.WingsuitPhotos.com

[mnealtx 0]

Probably Velvia film....

You can mask out everything but the sky and birng up saturation in the blue channel, as well...

Mike
I love you, Shannon and Jim.
POPS 9708 , SCR 14706

[MB38 0]

If you're shooting film [which you're not], shoot Velvia or a Kodak equivalent reversal stock.

If you're shooting digital [which you are], there are a few things you can do. Many Canon cameras have controls over image saturation. I don't think the 300D would, as it's a consumer camera, but I know that their 20D does from experience. Boost that all the way up.

Next, shoot RAW. If you bump up the saturation on a JPG too far, it will become obvious. It gets really ugly and you won't like it. So shoot RAW.

You can get basic with your saturation-boosting, but there are Photoshop action files out there that will automate film stock emulation. For example, I have an action file that turns any old image into a "Velvia" image. If you apply it to anything short of a RAW file, though, it looks awful.

I really don't know what I'm talking about.

[ScottyInAus 0]

The better the glass the better the image.
Using a Polarizing Filter willl "deepen" the blues in the sky
Post production is the way to top off your images
Attatched are a before and after with a quick level adjustment and some hue/saturation adjustment (+10 Master - +20 Blues)
It's an average shot but it shows a lot of sky.

Cheers,
Jason.

[LouDiamond 1]

Nice shots. He is definately using a wide angle lens, I'd venture to say in the 12-17mm range and a professional camera. The close up shots I believe he just zoomed in an cropped in post.

RAW is going to give you the ability to really get in and play with the guts but it often times(camera dependant) requires a plug in or software capable of handling RAW files. They also tend to be very large. I have had a few conversations with these two guys, maybe you've heard of them, Mike Mcgowan and Norman Kent. For the most part, they shoot in the highest quality JPEG format unless they absolutely feel the need to shoot in RAW.

A Polarizing filter can also be used but there are Pros/Cons about filters in Photographer forums that make Speakers Corner look like a tea party.Google filters and dig around. There are a few good points here and here to get you started. IMO, the easiest way to get the best of both worlds is to know when to use the Polarizing filter and in post production adjustments. Photoshop works wonders with simple adjustments or if you're really creative by using multiple layers of the same shot with different adjustments to get the final look.

"It's just skydiving..additional drama is not required"
Some people dream about flying, I live my dream
SKYMONKEY PUBLISHING

[Fast 0]

Right now I am shooting in RAW+Large trying to work on the settings on my jpgs so they look nicer. Having both to see what the camera is doing in the "post process" department helps futz with the settings.

On the digital rebel xt there are "Paramaters" that you can change, including custom settings to mess with the color, saturation, sharpness, etc.

If I ever get the jpgs looking right, ill stop shooting in raw. But right now my jpgs are mostly washed out and not turning out how I like them. I just am not a good enough photographer yet. There is a whole lot more picture in a RAW.

~D

~D
Where troubles melt like lemon drops Away above the chimney tops That's where you'll find me.
Swooping is taking one last poke at the bear before escaping it's cave - davelepka

[LouDiamond 1]

Quote

But right now my jpgs are mostly washed out and not turning out how I like them.

Are you shooting manually or are you allowing the camera to do it for you? If your photos are washed out, it sounds like you just might have an exposure setting problem. What are your camera settings?

"It's just skydiving..additional drama is not required"
Some people dream about flying, I live my dream
SKYMONKEY PUBLISHING

[herminiocordido 0]

The Flash he is using makes a HUGE difference, the sky can be correctly exposed and the subject have nice fill flash which makes them be well exposed aswell.

[DSE 5]

You can also achieve this with a post-grad, Tiffen has a software set that is very nice for Photoshop, Premiere, AE, and other applications.
You could do this with a grad lens filter too, but I don't know that I'd do that for one-shot photo ops.
Film stocks, glass, etc can be very closely emulated in post today regardless of whether it's digital or film, video or stills. My company makes film-emulation software for Sony Vegas and Final Cut Studio, and it's always funwhen people win awards using the software because of the "look" of film like treatments of digitally originated media.

[goobersnuftda 0]

Quote

You can also achieve this with a post-grad, Tiffen has a software set that is very nice for Photoshop, Premiere, AE, and other applications.

Can you be more specific on the software Tiffen has. I did a search and could not find the name of the program nor examples of its use except for one from 1996.

[The111 1]

Quote

Many Canon cameras have controls over image saturation. I don't think the 300D would, as it's a consumer camera, but I know that their 20D does from experience. Boost that all the way up.

FWIW, I just checked my 350D (Rebel XT) and it does have saturation control. I was totally unaware of this. Can't wait to try it out!

www.WingsuitPhotos.com

[MB38 0]

Quote

Quote

Many Canon cameras have controls over image saturation. I don't think the 300D would, as it's a consumer camera, but I know that their 20D does from experience. Boost that all the way up.

FWIW, I just checked my 350D (Rebel XT) and it does have saturation control. I was totally unaware of this. Can't wait to try it out!

It's subtle but it does cause an effect.

I really don't know what I'm talking about.

[tonyhathaway 0]

a higher f stop number will darken the background up. that as long as the shutter stays the same. JUST putting the number up will drop the shutter speed in an automatic mode. this photo isn't darkened in photoshop. its a dark-ish sky, but it was done with exposure settings on the camera, not the computer. Both are needed. its what came out of the camera. You can do many things just with your settings. change the settings and experiment. just remember, you will screw up a lot of photos before you learn what is good and what isn't. if you make the original photo with a very dark sky, your subject will be as well so you would need to do something about that as well. -Tony

My O.C.D. has me chasing a dream my A.D.D. won't let me catch.

[Fast 0]

Quote

Quote

But right now my jpgs are mostly washed out and not turning out how I like them.

Are you shooting manually or are you allowing the camera to do it for you? If your photos are washed out, it sounds like you just might have an exposure setting problem. What are your camera settings?

I am shooting Tv @ either 400 or 320. Most of the pictures come out around f10-f11 ish.

Here are some examples. One has nice color (its from a corrected RAW) the other doesn't. That one is the jpg.



I attached 3 as the raw with all "settings" set to 0.

~D
Where troubles melt like lemon drops Away above the chimney tops That's where you'll find me.
Swooping is taking one last poke at the bear before escaping it's cave - davelepka

[tonyhathaway 0]

I just shot this to show what can be done. This is the extreme end. Yes, I know my sensor is dirty now. This, again, is untouched from the camera. It was shot at 11:20am. VERY bright out. Anything on auto shoots what the CAMERA wants to shoot. If you want what YOU want, manual is the only way to go. (some exceptions, of course). -Tony

My O.C.D. has me chasing a dream my A.D.D. won't let me catch.

[Stumpy 284]

Hows this? (its a really lazy paintshop job but it gives you the idea)
If i had the original RAW file i could do a much better job with white balancing and stuff

Never try to eat more than you can lift

[freefalle 0]

tony, what settings were you using for that shot? Just curious

Chuck

[LouDiamond 1]

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Here are some examples.......I am shooting Tv @ either 400 or 320

I see what you are saying.Try bumping the ISO up to 500 for starters. I find that generally works for me on any given day unless it is really cloudy or dark out. As a rule of thumb, I always take some random shots on the ground that day to see what adjustments I have to make, if any to my settings before I jump.


Tony is dead on with the statement about making adjustments yourself on the camera and shooting manual.Some of the coolest shots I have seen where because the cameraman made the camera see what he wanted it to see.

"It's just skydiving..additional drama is not required"
Some people dream about flying, I live my dream
SKYMONKEY PUBLISHING

[tonyhathaway 0]

180 shutter. f/22. iso 80. (No reason in my opinion to go higher ISO unless conditions call for it to be necessary. -Tony

My O.C.D. has me chasing a dream my A.D.D. won't let me catch.

[The111 1]

Quote

I am shooting Tv @ either 400 or 320. Most of the pictures come out around f10-f11 ish.

That's odd that you're getting pictures so washed out in a partial auto mode. Your setup is similar to what I use for most normal jumps, and I have not run into overexposure problems that severe. One thing you can try on the partial auto modes to fix the problem you're having is adjust the exposure compensation, try -1/3 or -2/3.

www.WingsuitPhotos.com

[Fast 0]

Quote

Hows this? (its a really lazy paintshop job but it gives you the idea)
If i had the original RAW file i could do a much better job with white balancing and stuff

Picture #1 is more what i think the picture should look like. Your version is much to unrealistic. I am talking very subtle things here. Don't get me wrong. That day was kinda hazy and not great light. I also do get some really amazing pictures at times. The difference between an uncorrected raw and jpg is what im trying to close. That to me implies that the settings that are causing my pictures to look bad are camera post process settings.

Anyways, sorry to derail the thread some. But its all kinda on topic. There is a lot of shit going on in the camera after you actually snap a picture.

~D
Where troubles melt like lemon drops Away above the chimney tops That's where you'll find me.
Swooping is taking one last poke at the bear before escaping it's cave - davelepka

[Stumpy 284]

no worries! its a bit much for my tastes as well - i just whacked on max saturation and things to show what i meant. What software are you using for RAW conversions? I like Raw Shooter Essentials by picmantec, it does everything i need (and its free!!)

Never try to eat more than you can lift

[Fast 0]

Quote

no worries! its a bit much for my tastes as well - i just whacked on max saturation and things to show what i meant. What software are you using for RAW conversions? I like Raw Shooter Essentials by picmantec, it does everything i need (and its free!!)

I have just been using the built in camera raw processor on photoshop.

~D
Where troubles melt like lemon drops Away above the chimney tops That's where you'll find me.
Swooping is taking one last poke at the bear before escaping it's cave - davelepka