Kynan1 0 #1 July 10, 2007 What is the best setting on a Canon XTi Rebel for shooting freeflying. Aside from a wide lens, what is the best default automatic setting you use? Such as sport mode, etc? Or do you use manual and set the shutter speed to 1/500 for example? How still must your head be to get a clean shot? Thanks in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jtval 0 #2 July 10, 2007 Kynan, I got your email about advice etc. a VERY GENERAL setting it to put it on TV (time value) at about 250-800 low # for cloudy day high # for bright days. that is VERY GENERAL What lens are you using?My photos My Videos Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jtval 0 #3 July 10, 2007 Quote How still must your head be to get a clean shot? VERY STILL. Youre going to learn very quickly that your head should be on its own gimbal. Everything your body does to get to the spot, your head must counter act to get the shot CLEAN.My photos My Videos Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kynan1 0 #4 July 10, 2007 Yeah, I know unlike video, you better have your head still. It's going to be a learning experience for sure. I'm using the 18mm lens that comes with it. I know for exit shots it may not be wide enough, but it's ok for now. So roughly 1/500 for sunny days, then 1/250 for cloudy ones? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stumpy 284 #5 July 10, 2007 Heh heh so many variables. have a few days play with it on the ground and understand the basics of photography before you strap it to your head. Its a really nice camera, would be a shame to use it as a point and shoot!!! And you should try and keep your head reasonably still for vid too - just a thought....Never try to eat more than you can lift Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jtval 0 #6 July 10, 2007 Yea what stumpy said. you should keep your noggin still while shooting vid, too. your eyes can act as a major scanning device and they help to keep your head movements to a few degrees. if your just goofing off ina zoo dive there are less critical shots that you can get...as well as more dangerous situations. but if you "plan the jump,jump the plan" you should be able to get some cool shots that last more than 3 seconds.My photos My Videos Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kynan1 0 #7 July 10, 2007 So you need to keep your head still when shooting video too? No wonder my footage blows.My head movement is smooth when jumping, but I never focus on it to keep it completely still. I'm sure it must be more still when shooting an image because video doesn't blur out on you, where as a still will. I've been shooting shots with a SLR for about 5 years now, so I have some idea of how to use one, but never for jumping of course. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jtval 0 #8 July 10, 2007 yea, I've seen your footage.DOH!!!! My point was that most of your jumps look like random fun jumps with out any real intent of getting a good shot. more like lets go have a bunch of fun and film it. (I am not saying there's a prob with that,either) its the old cliche"it's nothing 100 jumps won't fix." the nmore comfortable you get the more good shots you'll get. I gained MOST of my experience by filming tandems. Leaps and bounds becuase I got to practice some cool moves o get the shot I wanted. rather than jumping with 80 people over 100 jumps and never having the same dive flow. My photos My Videos Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kynan1 0 #9 July 10, 2007 For sure, I never try to get "the shot" when I film. I just try to be relative and jump, whatever the camera gets, it gets. With a still camera, I won't think the same. Also, my flying isn't to the point where I can get a smooth carving head down shot or be right where I want for a freefly dive, maybe that's why I don't plan on getting a shot...haha RW shouldn't be that bad though or tandems. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zee 0 #10 July 10, 2007 The trick isn't really in keeping your head still, it's using your head as a solid base for the cameras while using your body as gyroscopic stabilizer Actually, there is a pretty simple trick to tracking your subject while keeping your movements nice and smooth - keep both eyes open and keep a wide field of view. A common mistake is to close one eye and focus really hard on keeping your subject dead center in your sight and you end up generating a ton of head shake in the process. Keep both eyes open, stay loose and relaxed, and and you'll notice an immediate improvement...... Action©Sports Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArmyMedic 0 #11 July 24, 2007 on the Screaming Eagels Parachute Team's Rebel XTi I use: the P setting on the dial, ISO of 200, AI Focus, Evaluative Metering, and of course it is set to shoot multiple pics for as long as I hold the bite switch...But just play with the settings and find what works best for you. I still use the 18-55mm lens that came with it and use a retaining band to ensure that the zoom lens does not spin in freefall."This is better than sex, and cheaper too!" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon2 2 #12 July 24, 2007 I wouldn't recommend the P setting. It gives you no control whatsoever. Most people I know shoot in shutter priority, you want a shutter speed that's fast enough but in keeping with lighting conditions (ie sunset load or bright sunshine) so most people shoot 1/320 - 1/500. Then there's people who shoot in aperture priority to ensure the depth of field they want, usually you'd go for f/8 - f/13. On the whole, either of these 2 settings work out fine if you know a bit about what you're doing. The P setting however you give the camera all the control, this setting will give you the most inconsistent quality. Like shooting with 1/60 all your pics will likely be blurry but the camera might think it a good idea. My advice would be shutter priority at 1/400 as a default setting, this will work for most conditions in freefall, you'll learn when to fiddle when you get some more experience. Save P for on the ground ciel bleu, Saskia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stumpy 284 #13 July 25, 2007 Quote I wouldn't recommend the P setting. It gives you no control whatsoever. Most people I know shoot in shutter priority, you want a shutter speed that's fast enough but in keeping with lighting conditions (ie sunset load or bright sunshine) so most people shoot 1/320 - 1/500. Then there's people who shoot in aperture priority to ensure the depth of field they want, usually you'd go for f/8 - f/13. On the whole, either of these 2 settings work out fine if you know a bit about what you're doing. The P setting however you give the camera all the control, this setting will give you the most inconsistent quality. Like shooting with 1/60 all your pics will likely be blurry but the camera might think it a good idea. My advice would be shutter priority at 1/400 as a default setting, this will work for most conditions in freefall, you'll learn when to fiddle when you get some more experience. Save P for on the ground What he said. Its almost as bad as the green box....Never try to eat more than you can lift Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArmyMedic 0 #14 July 26, 2007 See- i learn something new everyday! now if you can only help me with my exposure problems on the video camera, I will forever be in your debt! I got the advice for the P setting from our Public Affairs Officer here on Ft. Campbell and they obviously shoot stuff on the ground. I have had decent luck with it, but some of the shots (1:10) were blurry.. I will try and this and see how it works! Thank you for the advise...that is what I love about this sport, you learn something new every day!"This is better than sex, and cheaper too!" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon2 2 #15 July 26, 2007 Quote What he said. ciel bleu, Saskia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stumpy 284 #16 July 26, 2007 Whoops! sorry Never try to eat more than you can lift Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RMK 3 #17 August 28, 2013 As I’m not the first person to buy a new camera and ask about using it, I’ve revived this thread which still has relevant info. I have a Canon 700D (US model T5i) and am working out my settings. My planned settings setup would be: Setting: Tv (shutter priority) between 250-800 AF Operation: AI Focus Metering: Evaluative metering Drive Mode: Continuous shooting Image Type: RAW Two queries: 1. Using Tv, it doesn’t seem that you can disable the flash popping up. Is that possible? (camera setting, not using tape) 2. Is it generally better to disable or enable the “Autocorrect Image Brightness/Contrast”?"Pain is the best instructor, but no one wants to attend his classes" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zlew 0 #18 August 29, 2013 RMK 1. Using Tv, it doesn’t seem that you can disable the flash popping up. Is that possible? (camera setting, not using tape) Typically, TV should not automatically use the popup flash. AV,P,M should also all only pop up the flash if you tell it to, or fire a speedlight if you turn it on. Maybe make sure your flash button isn't stuck down? Flash being activated will limit the shutter speed in most modes (depending on the camera and your settings, usually around 1/60th or 1/250th). When you are using shutter priority (Tv) having it automatically pop the flash up and change your shutter speed kinda defeats the point of using a mode that gives you control of the shutter speed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scrumpot 1 #19 August 30, 2013 Normal, "sunny" days in TV mode, set the shutter to 1/250 and ISO to 200. Leave auto WB & metering on. Pop-up flash will NOT occur. If you are still concerned it might (I've got literally thousands of jump shots on mine, and never yet had it happen) - there is somewhere in the menu settings you can disable it. As you approach sunset/lighting diminishes - a quick single-click of the ISO wheel to 400 makes these "manual" settings, just about as easy as pie!!coitus non circum - Moab Stone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sinjin 0 #20 September 2, 2013 why use iso 200 on a sunny day ?.i would suggest always using ISO 100 for maximum DPI under normal conditions. i would suggest 1/320 as the slowest, 1/250 is close to getting blur with motion. guess i tend towards sharp. see the post by BFM below. it is right on too...dont let life pass you by Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMFin 0 #21 September 2, 2013 Kynan1 What is the best setting on a Canon XTi Rebel for shooting freeflying. Aside from a wide lens, what is the best default automatic setting you use? Such as sport mode, etc? Or do you use manual and set the shutter speed to 1/500 for example? How still must your head be to get a clean shot? Thanks in advance. I always use AV (aperture priority) This is because I want to have the best aperture for my lens. Every lens has an optimal aperture. For example the Canon 10-22mm performs sharpest at 5.6. Therefore I prefer to set my camera on AV and for 5.6 A few test shots on the way to altitude (through the window) to see what shutter speeds this yields. I always want to be above 1/500 sec. Anything below that often causes motion blur. If theres not enough light, then bring up the ISO value untill you get faster shutterspeeds than 1/500 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mircan 0 #22 September 9, 2013 ^ +1 on this ^dudeist skydiver #42 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
