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Tommy_O

What lens for Sony CX7?

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Hi guys!

Long time lurker here... first post!

I've ordered a new camera helmet (Tonfly Fuego Pro) and am topmounting a Sony CX7 on it.

My question is - what lens should I get?

It'll be used for 101 different kinds of jump, from freeflying with mates to filming four way and from inside big ways to sunset tracking dives and high hop'n'pops.

I really want to avoid vignetting.

I was thinking of a Liquid 0.45x lens with UV filter. (Do I need a filter? I wanted one to protect the lens if anything...)

Any advice would be massively appreciated!

Cheers!

Tom

P.S - on a side note, what kind of quality stills are people getting on the CX7? I've bought a hypeye and expansion kit for it, so I can connect a bite switch up and shoot stills either in full res on their own or 3 lower quality stills simultaneous to a video.

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If you are shooting in HD modes, using a Waycool, Liquid, Royal lens will significantly reduce your resolution. By as much as 75% on edges. If you're shooting SD mode, I'm a fan of the Royal, as they are marginally higher resolution (it's just a difference of how the glass is finished). The single element lenses are all fairly close.
If you're shooting HD, the Raynox lenses and Century lenses are the only medium to small profile lenses that will give you high resolution images. The Raynox 3030, 5050, Century .55 and .3 are all popular. Inside, you'll want a .3. Outside, you'll want a .5 or .3. IMO.

Stills quality is very good for a video camera from the CX7. It's not a still cam, but for webpix or even 4 x 6 prints, it's not at all bad in my opinion.
You'r gonnna LOVE the TonFly.

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Thanks very much for the helpful info!

The Raynox seems most realistic for me - I've found one here: http://www.digitaltoyshop.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=4978&PT_ID=932&lg=1&c=RAYNOX_HD-5050PRO_WIDE_ANGLE_0.5X

I think the .5 will suit me best to be honest from looking around...

Another point - this is my first camera setup (if you hadn't noticed!) - I'm not creating too much of a snag hazard with a lens like that am I? It's cetainly nothing like the Liquid!

Will I need an HD Filter or Lens Protector to maintain high resolution shots, or will just any one do (i.e. this one http://www.digitaltoyshop.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=5009&PT_ID=932&lg=1&c=RAYNOX_MC_PROTECTOR_FILTER )

Thanks again!

Tom

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_generally_ it's not a good plan to use UV/protection on a wide due to flare. I have a tandem stoe around the rim of my lens, nothing more. Mileage may vary. but in those moments when the sun will be in your shot, ie; exits looking up at the plane, expect flare with a protector/UV/Sky1A

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Will I need an HD Filter or Lens Protector to maintain high resolution shots



I use a UV filter on my SLR camera lenses primarily to protect the front element of the lens from damage. It is insurance. And it has saved one $400 lens (I think) from a cracked front element so far. HOWEVER,...

Any additional glass you put in front of your lens potentially compromises your resolution and contributes to lens flare. SO,...

With w/a adapters for video cameras being relatively cheap, spending $16 on protection for a $64 lens is not a real good insurance bargain, and you end up with the aforementioned lens flare when the light isn't right. CONCLUSION,...

I wouldn't bother with a UV filter for your video camera if you are using w/a lens on it (God I can get long-winded...).

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If you're planning on doing a lot of inside video, I'd go for a .3X. Works fine for 4-way video too.

I had a filter on my waycool .45 but had to get it surgically removed when a speck of dirt get between the filter and the lens. Been much happier since then... much less flare when facing the sun.

Dave

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OK, I really don't know what to get now. [:/]

0.3? 0.5? I don't know.



Both? Seriously, for inside you need very, very wide (i.e. 0.3x). For outside slightly less wide is usually better. I don't like really wide for 4-way, as it forces you to fly very close where burbles are present and you can't always see the grips as well as if you were slightly further away.

My too sense...

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Hmmm.

I understand your points. However- I only have 200 jumps, and can't always fly super close to my buddies for freefly etc - I wouldn't be able/comfortable to hover just above the burble in a 4-way.

HOWEVER, I will be filming from inside 4 ways more than I would outside. FS/RW isn't a big thing for me anyway - I'd rather be freeflying or under canopy!

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One suggestion is to watch a bunch of videos with known lenses...

Here's some results for .3:
http://www.skydivingmovies.com/ver2/pafiledb.php?action=search&search=do&string=.3&searchtype=allwords&more=cust&click=1

.45:
http://www.skydivingmovies.com/ver2/pafiledb.php?action=search&search=do&string=.45&searchtype=allwords&more=cust&click=1

Raynox:
http://www.skydivingmovies.com/ver2/pafiledb.php?action=search&search=do&string=raynox&searchtype=allwords&more=cust&click=1

You can try some more and see if you can find the look you want.

But remember, the width of the lens depends on the brand and the camera too...

Dave

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Hmmm.

I understand your points. However- I only have 200 jumps, and can't always fly super close to my buddies for freefly etc - I wouldn't be able/comfortable to hover just above the burble in a 4-way.

HOWEVER, I will be filming from inside 4 ways more than I would outside. FS/RW isn't a big thing for me anyway - I'd rather be freeflying or under canopy!



My advice is to first get the .5 and get used to flying your new slot as a cameraflyer. As your skills and safety grow then you can upgrade and get the .3 later.

ltdiver

Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon

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Hi,

We did some experimenting with different lenses here on the CX7.

We do handcam as well as outside camera.

We put a black eyeX on a cx7 and foud it was wayyyy too wide with extreme vignetting.

a Kenko 0.43 was equally as wide as a Black eye 0.25X on a pc350!

That tells me that a ).5 will be more than sufficient for you to begin with and it will be less expensive to get a higher quality lens.

I'm looking forward to running a CX7 or similar, But i keep seeing more different brands and models coming out with this type of camera.

:S

"When the power of love overcomes the love of power, then the world will see peace." - 'Jimi' Hendrix

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Hi again,

Sorry to bump this, but I still have no idea what I should be getting.

The Raynox is too big. I've seen it in person, and I don't want to put a snag hazard like that on my head when I'm only on 200 jumps.

The century stuff I can't find a suitable lens - everything I can find is silly expensive.

The Royal is nice, but I don't want to spend £140 ($280) on a lens that isn't even HD quality.

So what do I do?

Is there a cheap lens that I can buy to tide me over until Royal et al come up with a low profile HD lens?

Or do I just have to buy the existing Royal lens and accept that I can't film in HD quality?

Cheers,

Tom

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I only have 200 jumps, and can't always fly super close to my buddies for freefly etc



I wouldn't use a wide lens in that case. It will simply make everyone seem farther away. (And there's NO shortage of video out there like that!)

Quote

HOWEVER, I will be filming from inside 4 ways more than I would outside. FS/RW isn't a big thing for me anyway - I'd rather be freeflying or under canopy!



I'd get a belly-mount for this kind of work.
"Any language where the unassuming word fly signifies an annoying insect, a means of travel, and a critical part of a gentleman's apparel is clearly asking to be mangled."

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Yes as in it resolves over 320 lines in the center, but it is not even near true HD quality for full line resolution. For that you would need to add at least another 0 to the end of that price. DSE can get into details but what little reading I have done basically says that on consumer gear nothing is resolving to 1080 at a price point anyone will touch it at.
Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

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