CX7 - Shake while freeflying

[beowulf 1]

The HC5 is currently the best HD camera available for skydiving. I have almost 100 jumps with mine and I have been very happy with the video quality.

[dragon2 2]

Quote

The HC5 is currently the best HD camera available for skydiving. I have almost 100 jumps with mine and I have been very happy with the video quality.

Agreed. Totally happy with mine too

ciel bleu,
Saskia

[Jazzthieve 0]

It's nice that you're all very happy with your HC5, but that doesn't help us CX7 users very much.

[beowulf 1]

Have you written any video to DVD in AVCHD format? I now have a Bu-Ray disk player and can create and play AVCHD disks. From my view point they look great and have totally met my expectations.

[dragon2 2]

Quote

Have you written any video to DVD in AVCHD format? I now have a Bu-Ray disk player and can create and play AVCHD disks. From my view point they look great and have totally met my expectations.

No, no market for that here (yet?). I do like debriefing straight from the camera (HDMI or RGB) on the large plasma tv we have in the bar

ciel bleu,
Saskia

[bomb420 1]

Sorry for the late response. The CX7 does not take shakes very well since we have the stabilization turned off. A shake in your mount or head will be exacerbated. I also noticed not taping down the hand strap really makes the thing shake . With that said its possible to get excellent footage with no shaking. Check out the hd video. Its a close up (prop for a photoshoot, no wide angle) so proves the point pretty good.

HYPOXIC

[frost 1]

Head down with CX7 is excellent, there was never an issue. Everyone who is experiencing the shaking is seeing it in feet down position, where the camera is in the burble. Leaning backwards, as in doing tandem video with a wing suit remedies the issue. But for casual sitflying shaking seems to be a very big issue.

[mdrejhon 8]

I don't do camera, but I have a comment:

Depending on your video workflow, one could install a computer-based EIS filter. Basically, let the computer remove the shakes from the video. EIS can be done in post-process. Many video editing software now has an anti-shake filter.

But that's still cumbersome, though it works when you're rescuing video that you have time to edit, and need to be included in some final product.

So if you have some shaky CX7 footage that needs to be "rescued", there's an option.

[bomb420 1]

Here is a picture of the optical stabilization unit in Sony's latest cameras. As you can see, the image is always going through the two lenses. The theory is severe negative air pressure is causing these lenses to become unstable and shake. The two presented solutions are 1) glue these down and unhook the stabilization circuit. 2) Reduce the burble by making the air flow around the camera more laminar (flow smoothly).

#1 is fairly complicated and prone to ruining your camcorder.

#2 May be a simple solution for those mechanical/aerospace engineers out there. This can also be why some people do not see this as much as others.

edit: This is also why taping it just does not work...

BTW: I did not see it bad until I mounted the camera to the side of my new plate bracket. Now its pretty severe. At first I had it mounted in the center on my still camera mount when I did not have a plate on my optik.

Thoughts? Comments...

-Trunk

HYPOXIC

[frost 1]

Could dampening the mount/hardware help somehow? Cookie box/liquid lock base has a solid rubber-like layer inside. What about softer material? The screw still remains a solid point of attachment though and i wouldn't jump without it with just the rubber bands securing it. May be screw it in not as tight?

I cant test these ideas - i lost my CX7 on a Delta flight this weekend coming back from Atlanta...

[bomb420 1]

Sorry to hear about loosing your CX7... That blows. I thought I "lost" my CX7 a few times this weekend while I took it apart.

I do not think the rubber would help out that much but did notice how much more my camera helmet was vibrating in a sit with my chinforward vs. back and solid like its supposed to be. (still go back to old methods sometimes ) The rubber may help out when its in a solid position though.

Myself and DSE really think getting the air flow clean around the camera would be the easiest solution but its just a theory until someone proves it. Think flying on your head pretty much proves it.

-Trunk

HYPOXIC

[AMac0001 0]

Quote

I don't do camera, but I have a comment:

Depending on your video workflow, one could install a computer-based EIS filter. Basically, let the computer remove the shakes from the video. EIS can be done in post-process. Many video editing software now has an anti-shake filter.

But that's still cumbersome, though it works when you're rescuing video that you have time to edit, and need to be included in some final product.

So if you have some shaky CX7 footage that needs to be "rescued", there's an option.

Has anybody tried this option? It doesn't sound ideal but I'd be curious to know if it works.

[PharmerPhil 0]

I have used the motion filter on FCS (though not for skydiving). It was very processor intensive and time-consuming (it has to evaluate the entire clip you are working on before starting to apply the filter, then it has to rewrite the entire clip). It worked great on one clip that was a far away shot with a not so stable tripod in the wind. It worked not so great (but definitely an improvement) on some hand-held shots where I had to walk around the subject while shooting.

My feeling is it is a great tool if you have a problem footage that you can't re-shoot, but I wouldn't count on it for a regular part of your workflow. Particularly to overcome a problem that you had a chance to anticipate and fix in the first place...

[AMac0001 0]

Has anybody jumped a Canon HF10 or HF100? All else equal, do these cameras also have an issue with image stability? I'm assuming they do, but figured I'd ask. Thanks.

[Zensay 0]

Hi

Have anyone tried to jump with a CX7 in a underwater housing???.

I will try to se what happens with the video, when i put my CX6 in my SPK-HCB. It is big, but i think it can be done.

If it works i will try to make a new airtight box, because i'm not happy with the idea of opening my camera, and glue/lock the optics

[Jazzthieve 0]

Don't go hijacking this thread please. This has nothing to do with shaking in freefall.

[frost 1]

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Don't go hijacking this thread please. This has nothing to do with shaking in freefall.

what did he say not on topic? Is it not a valid idea to try the camera in an airtight enclosure to see if it eliminates effects the burble has on the lens?

I personally think it's not a financially viable solution, due to the cost of such an enclosure, but it would be interesting to see the results.

[Jazzthieve 0]

My mistake, I misread. I thought he wanted to scuba dive it, not jumping it.

[bomb420 1]

It would be interesting to see what the reverse pressure then its designed for will do to that housing. Perhaps try it on a hop n pop first. Hey if it works there, then it may be a viable function for bonehead, cookie, etc to start making.

-Mark

HYPOXIC

[AMac0001 0]

Quote

Hi

Have anyone tried to jump with a CX7 in a underwater housing???.

I will try to se what happens with the video, when i put my CX6 in my SPK-HCB. It is big, but i think it can be done.

If it works i will try to make a new airtight box, because i'm not happy with the idea of opening my camera, and glue/lock the optics

I had this same thought the other day. I don't know much on the subject but saw one made for sony camcorders. It has an underwater weight of 100g but not sure how heavy it would be on your head or how much it would cost. I'd be interested to know what you find out.

[base_nz 0]

Ive been thinking about my underwater housing too but its just TOO big to take up with me (spk-hcc)....Does anyone know what the smallest option would be ( make model ) as far as housings go?

.....And you thought Kiwis couldn't fly!!!!

[Zensay 0]

Just weight the damn thing, and a colossal 1,3 kg(with CX6). I will talk to someone else with more camera experience about the experiment.

I will try to experiment with my current homemade box, to stop the bubble problem.

[Trevor 0]

Quote

Here is a picture of the optical stabilization unit in Sony's latest cameras. As you can see, the image is always going through the two lenses. The theory is severe negative air pressure is causing these lenses to become unstable and shake. The two presented solutions are 1) glue these down and unhook the stabilization circuit. 2) Reduce the burble by making the air flow around the camera more laminar (flow smoothly).

#1 is fairly complicated and prone to ruining your camcorder.

#2 May be a simple solution for those mechanical/aerospace engineers out there. This can also be why some people do not see this as much as others.

edit: This is also why taping it just does not work...

BTW: I did not see it bad until I mounted the camera to the side of my new plate bracket. Now its pretty severe. At first I had it mounted in the center on my still camera mount when I did not have a plate on my optik.

Thoughts? Comments...

-Trunk

Mark,
I am side-mounting my CX7 now and agree that sitfly footage is much worse. Mine is unwatchable. I am assuming that's your stabilization/lens element in the picture...

are you going to glue it, or are you examining other options first?

When you say option #1 is complicated and prone to ruining the cam, are you talking about the glueing/disabling or the extensive disassembly necessary to get to the unit?

On a side note, thanks for the Hypeye D Pro; it has taken a lot of hassle out of flying camera.

-Trevor

[bomb420 1]

Trevor,

I actually already glued it but have not had a chance to fly it all week. I am going to give it a shot tomorrow and will let everyone know.

As far as why I said the complicated bit; Getting to the lens assembly and then taking it apart is a challange. There are roughly 15 assemblies, 50+ screws, a flash cell which no matter how careful you are always sneaks up and zaps you, 10 FPC or someother mini connector, then a clean room assembled lens assembly. The lens assembly is optically aligned and tuned in the factory. I went through the back way to get to the stabilization unit and probably tweaked the whole calibration. Once there, the stabiliation unit should probably be laser centered before glueing. I used calibers, but probably off a little. (I did accidently glue the nightshot assembly first, duh )

I've been taking apart/fixing cameras for about 4 years now and had to rebuild the camera 5 times before it worked properly again (of course, I was modifying it, but still...). I did not have the instructions, but I think it will still be tricky and not for the common joe. (sorry joe)

Glad you like the HYPEYE D PRO!

-Trunk

HYPOXIC

[bomb420 1]

Some Before and After Footage. Mind you I have a little shake in my helmet/neck in sitfly.

-Trunk

HYPOXIC