designing a camera box

[LaRusic 0]

Well here is the short of what im doing. Over the winter months im gonna try to design and fabricate my own box for a video camera. (not jumping it, seasons over and im 120 jumps before i'll attempt it)
Now heres the question, i mostly see them made from carbon fiber but im wondering if fiberglass would work as well. Or if not.....why not. I know carbon fiber has a better strength to weight ratio but i see people jump cameras not in anything so is this really a big factor?

Thanks

The Altitude above you, the runway behind you, and the fuel not in the plane are totally worthless
Dudeist Skydiver # 10

[The111 1]

Fiberglass would work fine for a contoured box. Many helmets and boxes being sold commercially are fiberglass anyway, with a carbon fiber top layer.

Carbon fiber is stiffer, so for plates it is ideal. But for boxes and helmets, not necessary really.

www.WingsuitPhotos.com

[LaRusic 0]

awesome, the exact kind of answer i was looking for

thanks!!!

The Altitude above you, the runway behind you, and the fuel not in the plane are totally worthless
Dudeist Skydiver # 10

[davelepka 4]

Be careful with this one. There's a fair chance that by the time you're ready to jump a camera, you may have/want to be using a different camera or helmet than you are designing your box for.

The technology changes pretty quickly, and the next 'great thing' could pop up at any time.

That said, do everything you can to keep it simple, lightweight, and low profile.

[The111 1]

Quote

Be careful with this one. There's a fair chance that by the time you're ready to jump a camera, you may have/want to be using a different camera or helmet than you are designing your box for.

The technology changes pretty quickly, and the next 'great thing' could pop up at any time.

That said, do everything you can to keep it simple, lightweight, and low profile.

Agreed. I don't use boxes anyway.

www.WingsuitPhotos.com

[davelepka 4]

Quote

I don't use boxes anyway

Me neither, but that's the way to build if you're going to.

[LaRusic 0]

This more or less to practice making stuff, and trying to making something that could be useful.

And yeah i know all about how quick technology can change....its a bitch sometimes lol

I have a sony CX-12 and thats what im gonna try and make a box for....nice and simple shape
Thanks for your input, greatly appreciated

The Altitude above you, the runway behind you, and the fuel not in the plane are totally worthless
Dudeist Skydiver # 10

[gearless_chris 1]

If you haven't already, check out the111's helmet build on here, it was very nice. I like to have my camera in a box to protect it from my carelessness, and riser strikes. I have a side mount so that's an issue sometimes. This is my newest helmet, a bonehead mindwarp. I made the box out of aluminum, bolted it in place, shimmed as necessary to get it lined up they way I wanted, then JB Weld to fill any gaps between the box and helmet. This helmet with the camera weighs the same as my Velocity fiberglass helmet without the camera. I may have other pictures of this helmet in progress already on here.

"If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane.

My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole.

[The111 1]

Quote

If you haven't already, check out the111's helmet build on here, it was very nice.

More info here and here.

www.WingsuitPhotos.com

[LaRusic 0]

Both those are quite the setups, you guys dont screw around when ya start mounting gear to ur heads thats for sure haha. I can see how having a box on the side would prtect against riser strikes as it looks fairly wide.

The Altitude above you, the runway behind you, and the fuel not in the plane are totally worthless
Dudeist Skydiver # 10

[Skwrl 56]

If you're working with a CX12, you might want to consider top-mounting the box.

Skwrl Productions - Wingsuit Photography

Northeast Bird School - Chief Logistics Guy and Video Dork

[LaRusic 0]

it will be a top mount, i think its too wide to side mount as well.

The Altitude above you, the runway behind you, and the fuel not in the plane are totally worthless
Dudeist Skydiver # 10

[gearless_chris 1]

Yeah, I haven't even seen the new cameras, I have a handfull of HC30's. My camera is at the most 3/16 inch away from the helmet so it's pretty tight. I've heard the modern cameras are too wide to side mount, but since I haven't seen one in person, I don't know. I choose to side mount because I jump mostly at 182 dz's and I like the extra headroom. If it weren't for that I'd try a top mount.

"If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane.

My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole.

[LaRusic 0]

So im working on making the box, its a slow process but im learning a lot.

another question

Im eventually gonna put this onto a helmet that has a round top. insted of trying to make something flat myself i have opted to use a cookie adapter. now how do you know where to put this on the helmet so where you are looking is where the camera is pointing. Im sure you camera SMEs have a few tricks

The Altitude above you, the runway behind you, and the fuel not in the plane are totally worthless
Dudeist Skydiver # 10

[The111 1]

Quote

Im eventually gonna put this onto a helmet that has a round top. insted of trying to make something flat myself i have opted to use a cookie adapter. now how do you know where to put this on the helmet so where you are looking is where the camera is pointing. Im sure you camera SMEs have a few tricks

I've never done that, but I've done something that is essentially the same when I built my helmet. I had to install the "crown" of the CCM in such a way to create the desired top plate angle in the end. But the process I used wouldn't work unless your helmet is rear entry and has a chin.

What I would do in your case is make a cardboard prototype of an "adaptor" component which is curved on one side (to interface to the helmet) and flat on the other, to hold your camera/box. Use tape and do a lot of test placements before you finally drill your actual helmet.

Here's something that will make you think. Forget about the helmet altogether. Stand up and focus straight ahead. Focus on the point on the wall which is directly level with your eyes, and center your eyes in your head so that your head (and not just your eyes) is angled properly. Not very easy, is it? There are a couple different variables stacking up here, none of which you can measure in any concrete way, it's all based on feel. How do you know you're focusing on the right point on the wall? How do you know your eyes are centered in your head? I've found it's easiest in front of a mirror, and you basically try to look yourself in the eye centered. Then do that with your cardboard box mounted and a level on top of your head to see if the top plate is angled correctly. You'd have to get a friend to look at the level since it would be running forward and back.

www.WingsuitPhotos.com

[LaRusic 0]

awesome that makes pretty good sense

now how far away from an object or mirror should i be when im doing this, like 10-15ft ish?

The Altitude above you, the runway behind you, and the fuel not in the plane are totally worthless
Dudeist Skydiver # 10

[gearless_chris 1]

I came up with a way to kind of cheat with my mindwarp. I mounted the camera to my bracket, put the RCA cable in the camera and used a coupler to hook the camera's RCA cable to a 12' RCA dubbing cable. This let me stand about 14' from the TV comfortably. Then I did what the111 said, except I was watching myself on TV so I could see exactly where the camera was pointed. Once I had it lined up the way I wanted I traced the bracket outline on the helmet with a sharpie, and finally drilled the holes to bolt it on. I ended up shimming the top out just a little before I molded the bracket to the helmet. I was only off 1/8" but the video was obviously crooked.

"If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane.

My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole.

[LaRusic 0]

that doesnt sound like a bad idea at all, im sure i have the rca cables for the cam somewhere....

thanks for the info guys....greatly appreciated!!!!

The Altitude above you, the runway behind you, and the fuel not in the plane are totally worthless
Dudeist Skydiver # 10

[flyintyler 0]

I made mine with cast acrylic, cut the sheets, drilled and countersunk the screw holes, used tempered glass for my window, and added a quick-release tripod mount hacked off a tripod. The window was sandwiched between two layers of plastic, the inner layer having been routed out to make a beveled edge for the glass to fit in. All joints received a bead of RTV silicon (clear) and then screwed together. The rear door used compression hinges like a tool box, with a silicone gasket seal.

It worked great but I finally graduated to using bullet cameras with a solid state DVR this year. Now I get two angles and less hassle.

[billvon 2,991]

> but im wondering if fiberglass would work as well.

Yes. Strength is not a big issue. Here's one trick:

1) Get a helmet with a flat plate on top. Mount your camera using the tripod mount screw.
2) Cover it with saran wrap. Do a really good job.
3) Take some modeling clay and fill in the areas you can't see when you look at it from the top. Basically make sure the case will always have a reasonable draft angle. (Ask a machinist about what that is if you haven't heard of it before; it will be important in a few more steps.)
4) Cover it with more saran wrap, or any thin clingy plastic.
5) Cover it again just to make sure.
6) Mask off your entire helmet.
7) Get a fiberglass repair kit. Trim the fabric to the approximate size. Mix up the resin and dip the fabric in the resin.
8) Drape it over the (well covered) camera and helmet; work out all the big creases and bubbles. Do NOT work it under corners and edges; let it "drape."
9) Let it dry.
10) Pry it off. If you did step 3) well, it will come off by pulling straight up. It may take some plastic with it; that's OK.
11) Use a Dremel to cut it down to a shape that covers your helmet and allows a small flange to attach to the helmet. You will also have to cut a hole for the lens, and holes for any additional wires/switch accesses you want.
12) Sand and paint if desired.

It won't end up super pretty, but it will be the smallest possible case for the camera.