wihich camera setting do you use

[mircan 0]

Now you hit the spot.
The surrounding skies and light conditions I was talking about, are just like that.
I DO get photos like yours from attachment, but only after playing with PShop.
I`ll try with spot metering then.
Thank you.

dudeist skydiver #42

[billvon 3,070]

> For example, underexposed faces and overexposed sky.

Spot metering will help there (as Saskia suggested) provided you're framing the shots well. Also if you're going to manipulate the images, be sure you're shooting in RAW to maximize dynamic range.

[dragon2 2]

Hey Mutley, you still there?

ciel bleu,
Saskia

[lilchief 1]

For one year ago I got my 350D and used 3months day in day out testing and playing with full manual settings. I later learned plenty form this thread that I started:

http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=3225608;#3225608

i was at that time only using the kit lens, EF-S 18-55. PhreeZone gave me this link(also in the thread) that helped me a lot.

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

I don't know how accurate it is, but it will at least give a good indicator on DOF you'll get with certain settings. Write down some and do some test shots.

I later experimented and found out that this setting worked for tandem and other skydiving photos.

Fully manual:
iso 400
shutter: 640-500(depends on the ligt)
F/stop: 9-11(11 when enough light and then downards according to light)
WB: blue skies mode ;)
focus distance: 3m/10ft
focal distance: 18mm

The focus distance i marked on the barrel of the lens to help me find it without measuring every time i took off the duct tape. If you go fully manual, tape the barrel so that the focus ring and zoom ring won't move. The air pressure will push back many zoom lenses during freefall.

I later got a Sigma 10-20mm and use 10mm for tandems.

If I at some point don't believe that I'll get enough light I switch to Sport mode and turn auto focus on. I don't use Av or Tv mode. I fear that I might get unexpected effects on pictures.

to find some good info about lenses to canon DSLR's i use this page preferably:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/

There you may find a review with the optimum f/stop for many lenses for Canon...or you may not. my sigma 10-20 is not there btw. =(

What the big boys here have said is really good stuff! Listen to them and if you want, try my settings to experiment with, don't rely on them blindly. =)

NB: my goal is to have as wide DOF as possible at this point. later, when I get more experienced, I'll improve on other fields of photography. But it's just soooo much to read, and the day has only 24h =P The reason I want good DOF is so I can play around the subject without loosing a picture due to auto focus messing it up.

PS: I just bought a Sigma 70-200 f2.8 EX DG HSM APO! wooooo me wants to play! =D

"Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return." - Da Vinci
www.lilchief.no

[artbel 0]

Yes Saskia, I'm still here but I'm silent when people speak who know more about the matter at hand.

I'm currently following a photography course (we had tests this week (finished second of my class ) which helped me understand all what you were writing. I am trying all the suggestions and tomorrow I hope to use different settings then my previous (So.... bye bye Sports-mode)

I'm still reading up on everything I can find and I'll try not to take on the easy advice (of some of my camera friends ) like: "Always use the Sports mode. It that simple"

Gr Mutley

You don't need a parachute to jump but YOU DO if want to do it again.

[DSE 5]

There is nothing wrong with Sports mode, so long as you understand what it does, why it does it, and how it relates to the speed of your lenses.
As LouDiamond alluded to earlier, some of the "big names" in skydiving photography use all the various modes. I know one "big name" that uses Sports mode frequently. But he doesn't use slow and cheap lenses.