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SStewart

Thinking outside the box

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So I just spent the last hour in the search zone. One search leads to another, you could get lost for days in there....

Anyway the question is box or no box? I have been using a cookie box for my hc3 top mounted with a Canon XT front mounted. I am changing to a new helmet with both cameras mounted side by side on the top (horizontal stills) And I am thinking about ditching the box on the video.

I realize the box offers some protection but it looks like if something will get bonked it will most likely be the still camera which has no protection at all. Also, the box takes up space and adds a few ounces.

You can't open the view screen or change the battery without removing the camera from the box, most ports are accessible but not all. It would seem to be more convenient to simply have a quick shoe and get rid of the box.

I have made about 50 jumps with the camera in the box and there are no significant scratches on the box, gaffers tape can cover the switches and zoom button. I am starting to think the box may be more trouble than it is worth. During my search I discovered a few others who said they ditched the box.

If you have gone box-less how is that working for you? Any suggestions for side by side top mount of a hc3 and canon xt?

Thanks in advance....

PS.... the helmet is a BH Batrack, I was lucky to pick up a used one in new condition and it fits perfect.
Onward and Upward!

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I think it entirely depends on the situation you're in. Caravans have a very large door. King Airs do not. King has a high ceiling, a 182 does not.
The set up you jump is entirely dependent on the aircraft you jump (predominantly) coupled with your height, your typical method of moving around, or what you're doing.
My FTP has a cage that I'm grateful for, but it doesn't do much but protect the edges.
My Tonfly CC1 covers everything entirely, including the base portion of the various WA lenses. My CC1 sidemount covers nothing.
I jumped a camera without a cage for an entire season with only one scuff mark, one accidental shut off. With the cage, not any kind of mark or shut down.

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Thanks Spot, as you know I am not a big guy and the vast majority of my camera jumps have been shooting tandems out of 182's so I am used to staying low.

I can stand up in just about any turbine so the type of aircraft should not really matter. The box is starting to seem like more of an obstacle than what it is worth, maybe a cage would be a better option.
Onward and Upward!

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I got rid of the boxes a long time ago. They definitely are not worth the headache .
I have never had any problems breaking a camera without it.Mine are all top mounted .


A friend will bail you out of jail , a REAL friend will be sitting next to you in the cell slapping your hand saying "DUDE THAT WAS AWSUM " ................

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... Also, the box takes up space and adds a few ounces.

You can't open the view screen or change the battery without removing the camera from the box, most ports are accessible but not all. It would seem to be more convenient to simply have a quick shoe and get rid of the box.



I agree with going box-less when top-mounted for all the reasons you mentioned and more. I routinely access many functions of the camera that would be inaccessible if my camera was in the box (LCD screen, view-finder, auto/manual focus, spot focus, auto-exposure shift). You have to be careful to not bash your head into things, but isn't that a good idea anyway?

I have been jumping my current top-mount helmet, sans box, for the last eight years with no camera damage. (I do have a helmet with w/side-mounted camera in a box, but I hardly ever jump it.) I am currently putting together a new helmet with side-by-side cameras; no box.

I haven't even been using a quick-release for my video camera. There's nothing I routinely need to remove the video camera for. I charge the battery on the helmet, and I can change the tape or lens without removing the camera. Even with my A1U (bottom-loading tape) I didn't use a QR. It wasn't a real big deal to just undo one screw after each hour of taping. Using no QR makes the set-up much lower, and reduces a snag hazard.

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never have used a camera box.

often ran two videos side by side
attached with the 1/4 -20 screw, through a base plate...but always used a secondary connection, opting for lightweight bungees, years ago and now a 1" wide webbing strap with plastic quick clip.

i've had a BatRak for about 5 or 6 years
and very much LIKE having everything top mounted, save for a small SONY digi-still which connects to a plate extension and rides up front.
(when... i choose to use it )..
i went to the Q releases when i started using the batrak...

I do use fairly heavy manfrotto Q R's. but like the convenience they provide, as well as the solid connection. I use a Nikon d70S and an HC-3.. they fit together pretty well.

outside the box is good, and you're wise to brainstorm such ideas,
since sometimes they can get waaaay outside....
My dilemma right now, is just WHERE to attach my SB -800 speedlight...
.. but that is a matter for another thread

jmy

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...but always used a secondary connection, opting for lightweight bungees, years ago and now a 1" wide webbing strap with plastic quick clip.



I really like that idea. My old helmet had just such a strap, and I am now trying to figure out a way to incorporate one into my new set-up. Is your strap attached to the helmet shell itself, or just to the top-plate?

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Spot (DSE) mentioned plane types. I generally am jumping from 182 and 185 wide body's. The only problem i ever have with camera's hitting anything is on climb out remembering to keep my head down lower while i climb all the way out on the end of the step. Just have to tuck my head until i get all the way out past the edge of the door.


A friend will bail you out of jail , a REAL friend will be sitting next to you in the cell slapping your hand saying "DUDE THAT WAS AWSUM " ................

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the nylon "secondary" strap runs under the base plate and over the 'ears' of the helmet. it's simply one continuous band, with a clip at either end, and adjusted very precisely, for length, soas to not be too long or too short.

strictly a back up, since the Q releases hold each camera, very solidly...yet easy to unclip if i want to hand hold either camera, or if i want to flip out the video viewfinder.


jmy

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So I just spent the last hour in the search zone. One search leads to another, you could get lost for days in there....

Anyway the question is box or no box?
...
I have made about 50 jumps with the camera in the box and there are no significant scratches on the box, gaffers tape can cover the switches and zoom button. I am starting to think the box may be more trouble than it is worth.



What climate do jump in? Dry, wet? I like to protect my camera from moisture.

Jurgen

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I never used a box until I got a HC-5. Initially i just mounted it with a stroboframe and a strap for extra support. After less than 10 jumps I noticed 3 cracks on the bottom of the camera coming from the tripod hole so i put it in a box. I noticed the same issue on a friends HC-5
http://www.garywainwright.co.uk

Instagram gary_wainwright_uk

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Thanks Jimmy!

My new set up will look similar to yours with a smaller still cam body. Looking at the Batrack I think the quick connects are needed. I think it would be tough to manipulate thumb screws between the helmet and top plate without them.

I was looking at the new BH Mantle but I found a vintage Batrack in great condition. The top plate is about the same size. I am going to get the chin cup cutaway mod and new liners.

If you have time I would like to know your method for aiming the two cams side by side. It came with a Newton cross site. My old system was stills in front and vid on top.

To others; I now jump in a dry climate.....

Cracks on the camera base? so you are saying the box saves the camera if the base of the camera fails?
Onward and Upward!

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>Cracks on the camera base? so you are saying the box saves the camera
>if the base of the camera fails?

More like the box prevents side loads on the camera, which prevents cracking of the base.



Aero loads? Inertia?

The former is too small to matter, I'd guess, and is only present if you're looking to your side. The latter should probably never be present unless you're in a weird (bad) situation/deployment.

To the person who got cracks, I'm curious which strobo plate you were using, as I think that could have a lot to do with it. I have mine directly mounted to a CF plate I made, so it is flush and there's no give (like a foam spacer or anything) and I have never had any problems with it... Wes Rich does the same thing on all his CCM's (I copied his design) and I know plenty of pros who have never had an issue with it.
www.WingsuitPhotos.com

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