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bwilling

Top plate mount angle...

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Yeah, yeah, I know I should just a buy a 'real' camera helmet, and while that's certainly a longer term possibility, I'm making due for now.

I have a Bonehead 'Rat Hat' that I'm mounting a CX100 on, to shoot video for an entry level 4 way team. I built a smaller version of the universal mount in the attached picture, and need to align and attach it to the helmet.

What's the easiest way to set the alignment on the top plate? I realize the 'real' camera helmets have mounting surfaces already, and that the alignment is 'fixed', presumably in a neutral position, so that the person and camera are looking the same direction.

I've seen several camera helmet setups that incorporate laser pointers to help set ring sets for final sighting, and wonder if slapping a laser pointer on the mount would be a good way to align it for mounting.

Or is the mounting surface position actually 'level', with your head in a neutral position, allowing the use of a liquid level of some sort to set alignment? I swear the top on the FTP looks like it's slanted 'uphill' to me, but it may just be an optical illusion.

"If all you ever do is all you ever did, then all you'll ever get is all you ever got."

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If you put the helmet on and have another person place the mount on top and mark it while your sitting stright and holding your head in line with your spine. Then once you have it mounted and add a sight you should have no problem getting it sighted in.

You want the mount and camera centered on top of your head, it's not hard to do.

Or you could just buy a real camera helmet.....:P

you can't pay for kids schoolin' with love of skydiving! ~ Airtwardo

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Quote

is the mounting surface position actually 'level', with your head in a neutral position, allowing the use of a liquid level of some sort to set alignment? I swear the top on the FTP looks like it's slanted 'uphill' to me,



An FTP is slanted 'uphill'.

You need some 'uphill' so you can comfortably film on level, or from slightly below on your belly. When you are flat and stable on your belly, your head is not lined up on the vertical, it's canted forward. If you line up the camera to shoot straight ahead when your standing on the ground, it ends up pointing down when you're on your belly with your head in a comfortable position. By adding the 'uphill', it gets the camera pointing straight ahead while your head is canted forward.

Some freefly helmets do have a 'flat and level' mounting surface, becasue when you're sitting, standing, or head down, your head is lined up on the vertical, and you want the camera to be shooting straight ahead.

For strictly four way video, you can mount it flat (freefly style) becasue you'll be filming from above, and looking down on everything anyway. However, if you ever want to shoot on level, or from below, you're going to be working to keep your chin way up while doing so.

I use an up-angle, becuause I shoot tandems and students, and like having the angle to work with. When I shoot from above, or freefly jumps, it's a snap to just cant my head forward an extra notch to make up for the angle. Much easier, in my opinion, to mounting it flat and have to look waaay up when you go for the low shots.

As far as how much angle? I would say just try to copy the angle off an FTP. I'm sure if you put yourself in a room with a couple of camera flyers, your helmet, an FTP, a level and a sharpie you guys can work out the details.

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I almost forgot, I have a mount similar to that one on top of my Mindwarp. I'm 99% sure that if you line up the front of that mount with the front edge of the helmet, you're going to be close to flat and level.

You may need to slide the mount toward the back to get the up angle if you want it. It may go back so far that the rear of the mount may slide off the back of the helmet. You could try to bend it to wrap around the back, or just cut off the overhanging portion, and bolt it on right there.

Are you using a chincup? It can go a long way toward getting a helmet to sit still on your head. If the helmet isn't custom fit, and doesn't have a ratchet strap to snug up, the chin cup may be the way to go. Bonehead makes a nice one that you can bolt to just about anything. I think you can get it with a cutaway system if you're in to that sort of thing.

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Thanks for the input guys!

Several of the camera guys at my DZ have offered to help me put this together, and it sounds like the path of least resistance will be to cart all that stuff to the DZ on a weather day and let them. I'm just trying to learn as much about this stuff as I can in the process.

Dave, thanks for the detailed instructions, but I'm on my own with the plate, because it's a much smaller version of BH's product, and a totally custom design. I didn't choose the path of least resistance there, because I have a 30 year background in manufacturing, and wanted to 'play'.

The Rat Hat is a discontinued Bonehead product, but I've attached a picture. It doesn't need a chin cup, but that's great advice. It also doesn't have a cutaway system, but I've spent some time at home making sure I could ditch the helmet in an emergency. The front mounted single clasp enclosure makes it pretty simple to release the helmet. Although of the guys at SDD say we can retrofit a ratchet system, and use BH's cutaway system.

Maybe I should have just bought a real camera helmet. :P


"If all you ever do is all you ever did, then all you'll ever get is all you ever got."

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