Wags

The golden knights demo team uses Flght Concepts Startrac's. ( AKA Sky-Truck.) Blue Skies, Wags

Saskia, As far as the partial metering mode goes, the 300D does have it. Unless I am not getting what you are talking about. Here is a link to the manual for the camera, check out page 84. Forgive me, as I am a bit new to photography, but from what I see the partial metering will hold for only a few seconds. Are you looking for a way to lock it for the full skydive? Or are you using it for something else other then skydiving? Page 122 has a nice chart that shows what can be used in the different modes. You mention the LCD on back of camera, as one of your cons, do you have a quick release? I find the Stroboframe to work great for quickly removing and replacing the camera if you want to see the screen. A friend of mine has a setup like that, and just set my camera where his still goes, and almost scratched my screen with a screw on his helmet. If yours is like that, be careful, and cover that screw!!! The no focus distance ring problem, well I only have two jumps with my camera to date (hopefully that changes this weekend, as the weather looks bad) I left the camera on auto focus for these first jumps. I know that's almost a sin, but it worked ok. I know I would have gotten more shots off in manual mode, but I don't have that dialed in yet. I plan to just judge the setting on the ground, and make some sort of mark where the best setting is, and then compensate either way for different types of dives. As far as less speed goes, that is at this point my biggest hang up, but I think I will be ok with it. I just have to keep from filling that first buffer, so I will always be ready for one good shot. I have attached one such shot. Blue Skies, Wags

I don't know of any Digital way to do it, there might be some sort of converter like that, but I bet it would be spendy. I do think this VCR will except S-video in and out, so that should maintain the quality quit well. Blue Skies, Wags

If I remember correctly you have to pull the viewfinder out every time you use a JVC. I know that's the way they used to be, but don't know if that's still true. If it gets bumped during a jump, it will shut off. Another thing I heard about them (at least in the past.) is that they reset all the settings to the factory settings every time they are shut off, (like manual focus) so you have to remember to set it all up each time. Does anyone know if this is still true? I have a Sony PC-7 It's at least 5 years old, and it's been used by 5 different guys. It's even been in a skiing accident. We did have to send it in for repair once in that time, but it has taken a lot of abuse, and still works great. Sony ROCKS!!! Blue Skies, Wags

Samsung makes great multiformat VCR's one of them we sold at Ultimate Electronics when I worked there is the SV-5000W. It will play anything, and all you do is select the output you want. I used it to convert a friends Borneo Boogie video from PAL to NTSC. It's not cheep as far as VCR's go these days, but it's a great quality unit. Here is a link to Samsung's site on it. http://www.samsungusa.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=SV-5000W%2fXAA Here's a link to an e-bay search on it, there are many for sale there. Not sure how well this link will work, but you can search there yourself. http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2F&krd=1&from=R8&MfcISAPICommand=GetResult&ht=1&SortProperty=MetaEndSort&query=SV-5000W+ Blue Skies, Wags

I have replaced my lens assembly once, so I agree with you there. But, if you do it yourself, it's not very expensive. I own the setup with others, and have it in a Sidewinder. It works great. I also made a mount for a still on top. The lens came off in a skiing accident. Yes, you can use your video helmet in other sports. ( If you're careful.) Blue Skies, Wags

Wow Iwan, that's 60% more shots then I got, with either of my cards. Did you try to make the file sizes about 2MB? Do you know what size they were? Smaller file sizes is the ONLY reason lower resolution pictures can be taken faster. That's why it is so important to compare tests with the same size files. Blue Skies, Wags

Here's my guess, in 2 years you will be able to get a digital SLR camera that's twice as fast as the 10D, double the resolution, and half the price of the Rebel. We are at a time where a lot of money is being dumped into this technology, and things are happening fast. Here's a quote from a review that might suprise some of you. Four years ago a 6 Megapixel DSLR cost $30,000. A little less than eighteen months ago the price had dropped to under $3,000, and today — with the Rebel — it's now well under $1,000. Moore's Law in action. Blue Skies, Wags

I plan to use my laptop. But I think for a quick view, and one that is big enough for everyone to see, I will use the video cable, and hook it up to the TV. I think this is one of the most under used features of a digital cam. Blue Skies, Wags

Murray, the reason the image is smaller, is because it is trying to show you just the image you will get due to the sensor being smaller then a 35mm film camera. Have you heard us talking about the camera having a 1.6x zoom factor? Well, actually it's not a zoom factor, it's a cropping factor. The smaller sensor sees a smaller part of what the lens is zooming in on, therefore to show you the same thing in the viewfinder, they "crop" your view. The following is an excerpt from one of the reviews on the Rebel. Field Of View crop One thing it is important to understand is Field of View crop. Because the EOS 300D's sensor is smaller than a 35 mm negative the field of view provided by a lens is effectively cropped (in the case of the EOS 300D the crop factor is 1.6x). This used to be referred to as 'focal length multiplier' although this term is actually inaccurate as it is not a multiplication but a crop, we prefer to refer to it as Field Of View crop (FOV crop). Thus the 18 - 55 mm F3.5 - F5.6 lens provides a field of view equivalent to a 28.8 - 88 mm lens on a 35 mm film camera. Blue Skies, Wags

Iwan, do you know what the file size was on those large fine JPEG pictures? The file size makes a BIG impact on the speed after the buffers are full. I have seen anywhere from 1MB to well over 3MB in the larg fine mode. It depends on the complexity of the picture, and the camera settings. 26 in RAW mode?!?! Are you sure you're using a Rebel? Again, do you know the file size of the RAW pictures? Blue Skies, Wags

Iwan, that review has a great explanation of the buffers. Now I understand why when I "pretend" to be shooting a tandem, I am able to take shots for a full 30 seconds ( at a speed that I think I will take them ), and still be able to take a 4 shot burst at the end. The fast emptying of the 1st buffer, will allow for some great opening shots. Blue Skies, Wags

Andy, I agree with what they told you, to a point. The tests I have done, have shown a slight difference in the cards, obviously VERY slight. Most defiantly not worth paying more money for a better card, if it will only get you one extra picture per jump. But........if that extra picture is the magic shot, then maybe it is. What I have found, is that the newer faster cards cost very little more then the slower ones. And I am a bit "tweaky", and like the faster time to delete pictures. My upload times to the computer didn't seem to change much with the different cards, but changed drastically with the method I used to up load them. What type of card reader do you use? I see you have a much faster camera then the Rebel, and if I had a camera as fast as yours, I wouldn't be trying to do everything I can to get an extra shot or two, within reason.($) Now on to phase 2, RAW, and lower resolution tests. I will try to make this short. Keep in mind that no matter what resolution you use, it takes the first 4 frames in about 2 seconds, then it will slow to the speed of the second buffer ( that depends on file size), then it waits for a picture to be saved to the card before taking each additional picture ( Three steps of gradually slowing down.) On the first tests I did, I forgot to mention that the camera took the first 11 shots in 8 seconds in the large fine mode. That's when the second buffer was full. I will add this spec to the following tests. RAW mode, approximately 5.5MB file size: Shots / time to fill second buffer: 6 shots in 6 seconds. In 30 seconds with the 12x card: 9 shots. In 30 seconds with the Extreme : 9 shots. Yes, it took 24 seconds to take the last 3 shots. In 60 seconds with the 12x card: 12 shots. In 60 seconds with the Extreme: 13 shots. Medium fine mode. This is a 2.8 Mega Pixel picture, approximately 1.25MB file size: Shots / time to fill second buffer: 16 shots in 14 seconds. In 30 seconds with the 12x card: 22 shots. In 30 seconds with the Extreme : 23 shots. In 60 seconds with the 12x card: 33 shots. In 60 seconds with the Extreme: 35 shots. Small fine mode. This is a 1.6 Mega Pixel picture, approximately 860k file size. Please don't use this in a skydive. I wasn't going to test this mode, but I was on a roll. Shots / time to fill second buffer: 22 shots in 19 seconds. In 30 seconds with the 12x card: 26 shots. In 30 seconds with the Extreme : 27 shots. In 60 seconds with the 12x card: 39 shots. In 60 seconds with the Extreme: 41 shots. There you have it, the two cards I have make almost no difference, but of course the shooting resolution does. Blue Skies, Wags

Iwan, sounds great, if you do some tests, it would be great if you could try to make the pictures around the 2MB size to keep the tests consistent with mine. I am going to try to do the tests again using fastfaller's advise, and using the raw mode. I will also do them again just for fun using the medium fine (2.8 Mega Pixel) setting. If you find that card works much faster with the Rebel, there will be an Extreme card for sale soon. Blue Skies, Wags

I jump Strong Set 400's, and they open sloooow. I just had my slowest opening yet last Sunday, it took 2,000 ft. I myself don't want my openings any slower. Before you try to slow the openings, you should check if the Tandem Masters want the openings slower. Blue Skies, Wags

Here's the link Ken, althow It sounds like The111 hasa been looking at the PD site already. http://www.performancedesigns.com/slink.asp Blue Skies, Wags

Once I get to jump mine, I will be using the 18-55mm lens that came in the kit. I am sure that's the lens you are referring to. At 18mm, it will be like a 29mm lens on a 35mm film camera. First of all, the only way you can get the lens, is in the kit with the camera. They don't sell it separate, and it won't work with any other camera. The lens is lighter and the main reason is that they are taking advantage of the fact that the digital camera has a smaller sensor then a 35mm camera, allowing the glass to be smaller, and they have the lens extend further into the camera, and they also use plastic for the mounting ring. It has been getting great reviews, considering it's only $100 more then getting the camera body alone. Anyone that has any questions about the Digital Rebel should read this review, it's 50 printed pages long, and is very detailed. Here is a link to the part that talks about the Rebel's lens. http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/EDR/EDRA5.HTM Blue Skies, Wags

Awesome, I wonder if it'll make a difference in the Digital Rebel. It didn't seem to gain more then 1 or 2 shots in a 30-60 sec. time frame going from 12x to 40x, But every picture counts. Do you have a Digital Rebel? If so it would be cool to see what you can get with the same testing parameters I used. which card are you referring to? Is it the Ultra II? If so, according to the review site I referenced above, it's about the same speed or a little slower then the Extreme. Blue Skies, Wags

Hi Dave, It's colder then crap up here, did 3 tandems Sunday starting at 8:00 am. Less then 20 deg. at altitude. Burrrr..... Yes, I bought the kit with the lens, and also bought a Tamron 70-300mm lens for other shooting. I plan on using the included 18-55mm lens on my helmet. I just need to get the tandem rig off my back. The software that comes with the camera is cool too. The Zoom browser program will give you every bit of info about your picture you can imagine, it even tells you what lens you used, and what mm zoom it was set at. And of course all the other settings, shutter speed, aperture setting, shooting mode, metering mode, exposure compensation, ISO speed, Image size, Image quality, Flash on or off, white balance setting, parameters ( contrast, sharpness, color saturation, color tone ), color space (RGB, Adobe), file size, drive mode (single shot, continuous, or timer). All this information will only help us to see what makes a better picture, so we can improve our next shots. The camera itself will give you the basic info, and a histogram, and if any part of your picture is overexposed it will flash, so you can try different settings, and shoot again. This doesn't help in freefall, but you can adjust for the next jump. Blue Skies, Wags

Well here goes, these are the results of my somewhat controlled tests with my Digital Rebel. I used a tripod, a light, and a remote switch with a lock to do continuous shots, and keep them at a consistent file size. I shot the photos at a frame rate of 320 so the shutter speed would not effect the cycle time of the test. I found on other threads that people were getting file sizes of about 2MB on there skydiving pictures I averaged about 2.15MB per picture. Keep in mind that different "scenes" will have larger file sizes, therefore effecting parts of these results. I have 2 different memory cards, a 256MB Lexar 12x card ($90), and I think the newest card on the marked, a 512MB SanDisk Extreme ($190)(came with a memory card holder pouch, and a small cd with Rescue Pro, a data recovery program that works on any memory card). I think this card is rated at 40x. It comes out at the top on the tests on this memory card review site. http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=6007-6111 First the good stuff, here is the number of shots I got with each card. In 30 seconds with the 12x card: 17 shots. In 30 seconds with the Extreme card: 18 shots In 60 seconds with the 12x card: 26 shots In 60 seconds with the Extreme card: 28 shots The 12x card took 25 seconds to completely clear the buffer after shooting. The Extreme took 20 seconds. Someone posted on an earlier thread that the rebel didn't gain much with a faster card, It seems they are correct. Considering the speed of the camera is the one thing I would like to change, I think I can live with these numbers. I have yet to get this thing out in freefall, and test it in the real world, so until then, these numbers are the best I can do. If anyone has some real world numbers, I would like to hear them. Also I would like to hear what people are getting for file sizes in different situations, as that will also affect the speed. Now the other tests. To dump the images to my laptop using my SanDisk PCMCIA Compact Flash reader ($13). The 12x card sent 40 pictures in 65 seconds. The Extreme sent 40 pictures in 60 seconds. To dump the images to my laptop using the USB adaptor with the card in the camera. The 12x card and the Extreme both dumped only 10 pictures in 2 minuets 15 seconds. This should tell you that if you want to keep your sanity, you must find a faster way to get the pictures in your computer then the supplied USB cable. If you have 100 pictures to dump, it will take you over 22 min. with USB, and only 2.5 min with the PCMCIA card. If you have a firewire port on your computer, you will be best off getting a card reader that uses it, although it will cost you a little more. The PCMCIA adapter is fast, simple, and cheep. The place where the cards differed the most was deleting files. The Extreme was about 3 to 5 times faster then the 12x, but we're talking seconds here. I am just including this since I took the time to test it. To delete 40 pictures on the 12x card in the camera it took 12 seconds. To delete 40 pictures on the Extreme in the camera it took 4 seconds. To delete 40 pictures on the 12x card in the PCMCIA adapter, in the laptop, it took 5 seconds. To delete 40 pictures on the Extreme in the PCMCIA adapter, in the laptop, it took 1 second. Again small numbers of seconds, but if you are deleting 200 pictures, the cards will take 25 seconds, and 5 seconds. Well, that's all I have for now, I love this camera, as it is actually getting me interested in photography. I have taken stunning shots of the falls here in town, and some of the backyard creatures. The feedback it gives you on a picture you have taken is awesome, but that's for another post. I hope this info helps some of you to make a better educated decision on whether or not the Rebel is for you. Blue Skies, Wags

No problem, I am doing some tests right now, and am finding that, as the review I referenced said, the first buffer, being a buffer that is buffering the sensor data directly will hold 4 frams no matter what, but the second buffer being a memory buffer, will hold more pictures if they are of lower file size. Since the file size differs depending on settings, and complexity of the image, this can change drasticly even if you shoot only in the fine large mode. In the thread on this forum named "size storage card" people seem to be getting about 256 pictures on a 512MB card. That's 2MB per picture. I have set up my camera on a tripod and am taking a test image that ends up being about 2+MB. I of course get 4 frames very fast, then get another 7 somewhat fast. These first 11 images are done in about 8 seconds! That's cool I will post a new thred with the fulll results when I finish. Blue Skies, Wags

This is why I like my Digital Rebel, it works with the same bite switch I use with my Rebel 2000. As far as AndyMan referencing the half frame per second difference. The biggest difference for us, as has been discussed here before, is the buffer, 4 frames for the Rebel, and 9 for the 10D. Actually they each seem to have two buffers of equal size, you can read more about that in this awesome review at http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/EDR/EDRA7.HTM Both cameras will take 4(Rebel) or 9(10D) shots very fast, then 4(Rebel) or 17-25(10D) shots kind of fast, then wait for the buffer to dump at least one picture to the card before being able to take another shot. The one thing that sucks, is that neither will write at the same time as they shoot, that would be a big plus, and I am sure their will be a model that will do it someday soon. By the numbers above, you can see that using the second buffer, the 10D will take a lot more shots in a minuet then the Rebel. Just shooting on the ground with my Rebel, I figure I can take 15 shots in 30 seconds. We do tandems here from 10K, so the freefall is about 30 sec. I don't know when I will get a chance to try it in the air, as I am usually the one in the video, instead of taking it. I will post my results when I get a chance. As far as the auto focus problem brought up by Brent, here is a quote from the above review I posted a link for. Like the EOS 10D before it, the Digital Rebel 300D offers what Canon terms "Predictive AF," which basically tracks the rate at which a subject is approaching or receding from the camera, and accurately focuses based on the subject's predicted position. (A features that sports photographers will no doubt appreciate.) I have not had a chance to test this yet, as we have had a ton of wind lately. Maybe I'll try it on a car. Just moving the camera around, it seems this feature also works with focus lock, where you select one of the 7 auto focus points for the camera to use. I will look into this more also. Overall, I love this camera, my biggest hang up is the speed, but really, how many shots do you want to dig through after each jump? I will just have to plan things out my best, and shoot when the best image presents itself. 4-5 shots on exit will suffice for me...... I hope. Blue Skies, Wags

When I got my first rig, it had a main that was too big for the container, and it was hard to close. I was worried about having a pilot chute in tow. My JM packed it for me the first time, and all was good. I packed it for the second jump, and didn't get it as small. I may not have had the best throw of my pilot chute, but it didn't stay in my burble, and there it was, pilot chute in tow!!! I was still high, so I reached back to grab the bridle and it went right into my hand and I pulled it. It opened fine, and my JM and the other guy on the jump were shocked at what they just saw. After that I got more help packing it smaller, as I couldn't make the loop longer, and I always gave the pilot chute a good hard throw, so it would get into clean air, giving good snatch force. Never had a problem with it after that. I would have to say, if you aren't working your ass off to get the last flap closed, it's probably fine, but that is not something that can be explained in a post, so have a rigger check it out in person. I must say that I have seen far more loops too loose, then too tight. Blue Skies, Wags

The Nova canopy grounding was lifted. I found this after doing a simple search on google. http://www.afn.org/skydive/equip/announce/nova-unrecall.html In fact, I am putting a kill line on a Nova slider tonight. Blue Skies, Wags

Here's some info from Dr. Vance's website about the night vision / large pupil thing. It doesn't say how large of a pupil he can treat, but knowing what I do now about night vision problems, this sounds great!! Scanning Laser Technology available to maximize the ability to treat with an area 1 mm larger than your pupil size in low light If your pupil stays smaller than your laser treated area, the night image has a better chance of being good after refractive surgery. If your pupil gets larger than the treated area, than a halo of uncorrected image can create night vision problems. We feel it is important to have a treatment zone at a minimum as large as your pupil in low light. In our opinion, it is actually ideal if your treatment is 1 mm larger than your pupil in low light. This is because as we sit in low light for a period of time, the pupil can get even larger. Again, if your pupil gets larger than the treated area on your cornea, a halo or glare can occur. Thus, two very important questions need to be answered before undergoing refractive surgery. Number one is: "How will my pupils be measured in low light? Are you using modern day testing that involves light amplification or infrared technology?" Number two is: "Now that we know the size of my pupils in low light, can we perform a treatment that maximizes my change of night image quality in low light? Can we do a treatment that is 1 mm larger than my pupil in low light?" Blue Skies, Wags