ChrisClark

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Everything posted by ChrisClark

  1. The pattern of holes is symmetrical, its looks like they will match up if bridle is folded with three holes either side. It would be interesting to check if the damage is in the area that is folded back across flap 2 when closing the container. If so then it is likely that the kill line has not been cocked well enough and the slack is taken up on deployment, the burnt area will be under pressure between flaps, stiffeners and binding tape.
  2. I have a Singer 211 which is a walking foot machine. I find that it is only really useful for heavier container work or multiple layers of webbing etc. The machine I use most is my 20u, its a drop feed machine, will sew canopy patches just fine and deals with almost any other work. After changing over the feed dog and foot it really works well for any zig-zag work. A good choice as a first machine. I have a twin needle Mitsubishi for all my binding but I bought that in the greatest deal in the history sewing machine purchases! I had a 31-15 once, regret selling it now, top machine.
  3. I have had two 20u machines and used them for just about everything. Also here in the UK the thread is sized on a metric scale, 40 metric is the equivalent of E thread but is slightly heavier and I have never had any problems. I use size 21 needles for most container work. I have given up using mechanics to fix any problems, last two were useless and in the end had to figure out solution myself.
  4. Could you post a picture of your main pilot chute. Just curious because that type of set-up was subject to a UK safety notice in 1984 after a pilot-chute in tow when the handle and lanyard entangled with the bridle.
  5. A lot will depend on the size of reserve that you require and the type of main canopy, not all 190s are the same volume. Try this online sizing calculator. http://vos.uptvector.com/vos/v3sizing.html
  6. I am sure your Advanced Packer / Rigger will be able to sort it out for you. However the best source of information is the manufacturer: Paratec GmbH Flugplatz Saarlouis-Düren 66798 Wallerfangen Germany Email : info@paratec.de Phone: +49 (0) 6837-7375 Fax: +49 (0) 6837-74373
  7. Its simply too much canopy bulk in the ears. Reducing the amount of bulk at the top of the freebag (and reserve tray) will help to solve the issue.
  8. The PC, freebag and toggles are from a Wings, the canopy is a PD reserve.
  9. I have attached a page from the PD manual that shows the best way of attaching Dacron line to a toogle. (If however you require a loop for a base gear set-up as someone else has suggested then your best bet would be to ask on a base jumping forum.)
  10. Got what I required. Thanks.
  11. I need to check some measurements on a Javelin OJK, any riggers or owners out there? I won't be able to call Sunpath for another 5 hours.
  12. I have made & fitted the "Chutin Star" style blocks on a few risers, they work well and are hidden when packed.
  13. Using anything other than round point needles on any rigging work is a bad idea and there are proper solutions, needle scarf size, depth of thread channel, thread lubrication, condition of the hook etc all play part in producing a good stitch. It may just be the quality of the needles you are using. I have no problems sewing through the materials you have mentioned and I use round point needles (size 21) with my 20u. I use a LT2 twin needle for binding, I have just produced a main pin flap for a Javelin, this is made from several layers of cordura, ballistic cloth and .060 HDPE and it is fine. I have attached a link from needle manufacturer Groz Beckert, it gives you some idea why you are getting problems and a product they have developed as a solution. http://www.groz-beckert.com/website/media/en/media_master_371_low.pdf
  14. I use some clear acrylic sheet bought from the local hardware store and have covered the edges with adhesive foil tape, a bit like binding. It works well and has lasted for many years now. I have also used thick mounting board for the art store but this is not transparent.
  15. UPT use .020, .040, .062 MDS and .060 poly. Sunpath use .030 MDS and .060 poly. I recently bought small amounts from both companies. Can also depend on the model (year) of Javelin as they have made small changes many times over the years, especially on the riser covers.
  16. John, I think Bill's theory is based on the weight of the handle rather than drag. A metal cutaway handle, accidentally released from it's pocket, could generate considerable force during opening shock, similar in principal to line dump. The Cutaway “Pud” was of matching color to the jump suit. This seems to be an important factor that hasn't really been discussed. I am personally very conscious of this and have always used a pad of contrasting colour to that of my jumpsuit and MLW. In fact they have always been bright orange on all the rigs I have owned over the years (Racers included).
  17. I always enter the details of work carried out on the packing card. If the equipment is later split up into separate component parts then I simply photocopy/scan the packing card and make sure each part has the correct documentation to show the gear's history. What would be nice though is a panel of blank Tyvek to record repairs or alterations directly on the gear. PD reserves have the boxes for ticks or crosses at each repack.
  18. Yes really. In 1987/88 the STC (Safety & Training Committee) passed a rule that the use of pull-out deployment be limited to FAI 'D' licence holders, 200+ jumps at that time. The modern 'C' licence is 200 jumps, 'D' licence is now 1000 jumps. A lot of skydivers used the pull-out system in the UK at that time, Racers and Chasers (UK copy of Racer) were popular. In fact my first rig was a Chaser with a pullout, our DZ was predominately pull-out users, I had to get the container converted to throw-out as I had only come off student status then. There was a fatality (possibly 2) in '87 and obviously quite a few incidents concerning deployment problems and the committee restricted the use of pull-outs. A few years later they also banned belly mounted throw-outs after another death. Bottom of container (BOC) mounting the pc has made the throw-out system a lot safer but not idiot proof (nothing ever is or ever will be). I don't want to start a debate on pull-out v throw-out, I was just letting that skydiver know the position with that particular set of gear he was thinking of buying.
  19. The 2 pin Teardrop used a lot of velcro on the riser covers (which may require replacement) and if it has a pullout deployment system then you would not be able to use this in the UK until holding a FAI ‘C’ Certificate, so would have to be converted to a throwout. I would suggest looking for something else. I am UK rigger, email me on rigger220@btinternet.com or phone 07748 112188 and I can help you with any queries about gear.
  20. Could you PM me his contact details, I need some advice about my Singer 211.
  21. Can only second what Andy said. I usually buy from Para-Gear but if they don't have what I need available I then contact one of the manufacturers. They are generally very helpful and won't charge over the odds.
  22. The "home made" loop is actually the running loop channel and loop supplied by Airtec with 2 pin units. I still have a couple here in my loft. I however have never install one as I always preferred using the quick loops supplied by Parachute Labs as they are far easier to install and make packing less troublesome. You have to calculate the loop length and sew it in place for the running loop system. Idea was that it would work in the same way as a safety stow if one cutter failed as the loop would pull clear. Attached is picture of loop and page from Cypres riggers guide.
  23. If you had read my post properly you would have seen that I mentioned the original hand drive and die was the "SS" set sold by para-gear. I only purchased the new hand tool part of the set from Stimpson. They informed me that the new hand tool is stainless steel and the ones from Para-gear are not, only the die is stainless steel (blue base). I have attached a picture. As I said before this now works perfectly. For thinner materials I use normal length #0 stainless steel grommets and for thicker materials the #0L stainless steel grommets. However I use mostly long shank grommets as they are now the most commonly used grommets on modern equipment. See attached photos. 3 layers of type 3 tape (white) with standard grommet and 2 layers of type 17 webbing with long shank grommet. This took me a few minutes to do without preparing the grommets and with 5-6 blows. The point I am making is that since I purchased the new hand tool from Stimpson I have not had a problem with grommets splitting.
  24. I have experienced the problem you have mentioned with #0 & #2 Stainless Steel. I spoke to a rigger at a leading manufacturer and he said that it was the quality of the grommets and they were having to grind the edges of the shank before insertion. Obviously the grommets split because the end of the shank has to stretch and spread over the washer and steel isn't that flexible. You should be looking to reduce the amount of shank left and also remove away any imperfections on the grommet shank. Grinding some of the end away or increasing the thickness of the material where the grommet is to be set will help produce a better finish. I was using a standard SS#0 hand tool purchased from Para-gear, however this tool broke whilst in use and I bought a replacement hand tool direct from Stimpson. This tool is I believe designed for the long shank grommet (#0L) and it sets the grommet with a more pronounced fold of the shank instead of spreading out the steel across the washer. This new tool gives a superior finish to the one from Para-gear and I can now set stainless steel grommets perfectly with about 5 hard blows. I now only use #0L grommets for just about every application.
  25. The risers are part of the harness and container system and should stay with it. What if the manufacturer releases a safety bulletin regarding the risers they have made (ie Rigging Innovations and the 3 ring locking loop) and these risers have been put on another container, they become harder to trace. There was a fatality in Australia a few years ago where one of the major factors was that the risers were not designed for the container system involved and didn't release. A main and reserve entanglement followed, shortly by death. Possibly because someone was too lazy or just plain ignorant.