ChrisClark

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Everything posted by ChrisClark

  1. ChrisClark
    Bob well spotted with the needle size. I did think that the solution would be something to do with the way the machine feeds the material. Added a lot more pressure on the foot, adjusted the check spring and after re-adjusting the tension it now works pretty well. I am making tuck flaps which are covered in cordura first then bound with tape so the heating method was probably not an option. The machine is needle feed and I use it a lot for sewing tape onto mesh for pilot chute construction and binding lighter stuff and have not required any real pressure via the foot. Thanks for help.
  2. ChrisClark
    Thanks for that, I will give it a go.
  3. ChrisClark
    The Dan Poynter books have some detailed information on older equipment. If you have trouble locating copies let me know.
  4. ChrisClark
    I have a Mitsubishi LT2-2220 (BOB - large bobbin) twin needle machine which works fine for binding many layers of different fabric but as soon as I try to work through plastic on tuck tabs and flaps the thread breaks and stitches are dropped, a total mess. I am using 140/21 size needles with E thread or metric 40 (slightly heavier). Does anyone have experience with this machine or can recommend a better machine for this type of work. My single needle walking foot machine sews through the work perfectly but is not practical for binding large areas.
  5. ChrisClark
    I bought an old Singer 211G compound feed machine from a guy who worked in a factory. The thing was totally thick with years old grease and lint. After striping it down I removed the grease with "Gunk" engine de-greaser bought at the local garage. Applied with paint brush and placed all the dismantled parts in a jar of the solution. Toothbrush for the small areas and then hot soapy water. Dried it thoroughly using a fan. Oiled it and put it back together with some new parts and it now runs like a dream.
  6. ChrisClark
    Get the manual here. http://www.sunpath.com/downloads/manuals/sp_owners_manual.pdf
  7. ChrisClark
    Hi, I am a UK rigger, let me know where you are and I can give you details of your local rigger. The simple way to add security to a one inch chest strap is to sew a wrap of 1" binding tape around the chest strap material. It makes it too stiff to pass back through the adjuster. This is standard on Talon and Voodoo containers.
  8. ChrisClark
    Noticed a manufacturer is using 3/4" Type 4 square weave for bag attachment on their bridal line, just wondering where I could get some as its not readily available, in fact I didn't even think it was produced. Before you ask I haven't mistaken it for 5/8". I have also emailed the manufacturer but DZ is generally quicker.
  9. ChrisClark
    I had trouble with smaller Wings at first and so did two other riggers here. Between the 3 of us we had about 70 years rigging experience! Wings have a better set of instructions on their website: http://www.skydivewings.com/pdf/wings_reserve_packing.pdf I found these to help. It is the bulk distribution (size of ears) that really matters.
  10. ChrisClark
    Firstly I am not against quick loops, I use quick loops on pop top containers, the type of loop pictured with the original post is the type I would use on a 1-pin Teardrop. I also use the 2 pin type made by Jumpshack. I am saying they shouldn't be used in internal pilot chute containers. It has nothing to do with cutter placement, it is the way the containers open. The loop(s) are extracted with PC on a poptop and stay with the container with any other style container. On a Racer or Teardrop the cutter placement is right next to the pin behind the grommet. When the loop is cut the opening sequence will be exactly the same, the pilot chute pulling the loops free of the container etc. Whereas with the internal pilot chute container, cutter placement does not matter, there will always be flaps requiring to force their way apart against the remaining loop which is held by the remaining pin. The lubrication helps in this situation and you cannot lubricate a quickloop as the knot is based on friction.
  11. ChrisClark
    Lubrication.......... Cypres loops used in any non pop-top container need to be lubricated. Would the quick loop be lubricated? No. I spoke to Kai, when visting Airtec many years ago, about the design of the Cypres loop. I had a Javelin and wondered how the flaps would open if the loop was cut at the base and the pilot chute would have to force the flaps away from the remaining loop. The type of line used and the silicon lubrication are very important factors in the design and help the flaps open more readily. This has been discussed recently due to improper loop lengths. Using one of these quick loop on an internal pilot chute style system wouldn't be a great idea and I don't really see the benefit. Why not set the correct length and use skill to close the container correctly? Hey the Vector III is one of the easiest containers to close!
  12. ChrisClark
    Craig was directing Martin to the BPA "3 blokes" notice that rigger rob had asked about. The APF notice had already been posted earlier.
  13. ChrisClark
    Well folks......wrong answer! Reverse risers should never be used on a Javelin. This was a factor in an Australian fatality, here is a quote from one of the investigators:The final link in the chain leading to this fatality was the use of reverse risers on a rig not intended for them. The deceased's rig was a Javelin, never intended for reverse risers. The large harness ring is lower so the rings are held against the webbing and do not release as readily as on a PDF harness or Talon etc where the the harness ring is situated higher up.
  14. ChrisClark
    Since noboby has let me know the date of manfacture of the risers I will assume since the original APF safety bulletin was issued in August 2001 the risers must have been new and never been in service.
  15. ChrisClark
    Here you go.
  16. ChrisClark
    When were they manufactured?
  17. ChrisClark
    UK Advanced Rigger candidates need to make a complete Harness / Container system to an approved design ie copy one already out there. The course also includes major canopy repairs, harness work etc.
  18. ChrisClark
    Thanks George.... I will give Michelle a call. PS Thanks for the 3 reserve saves!
  19. ChrisClark
    Have you taken in account the extra 3 months? What is the date of manufacture of the Cypres?
  20. ChrisClark
    Jerry/Mark, Thanks for the replies. I am working on my UK Advanced Riggers rating, similar to a Master Rigger. The major part of the course syllabus is to produce a harness / container system (a Javelin copy in my case). The basic Paragear binder I have has been OK for doing all the simple stuff like the dbag, the freebag leg pads, corners are fine if time is taken after a bit of practice. Now that I have progressed to the trickier parts such as reserve container and multi layered stiffened flaps etc the binder just cannot deal with the work. I looked at right angled binders from Atlanta Attachments but they are far to expensive. Bought one from a UK dealer but the size was wrong and the tape rolled all over the place so that went back. I have had no real problems with making templates and sourcing materials and a harness machine, just about every part of the project as gone to plan apart from getting consistent binding. Driving me nuts! I will give Henderson Sewing a call.
  21. ChrisClark
    Just wondering what binder set ups other riggers use. I use the Para Gear 3/4" model on my Mitsubishi LT2, this works well when I make d-bags and simpler items. I am having problems dealing with irregular shaped pieces and heavier duty items.
  22. ChrisClark
    What size is the container, should be on the data panel in the pouch with packing card.
  23. ChrisClark
    Polyester is more resistant to stretching and shrinking than nylon, making nylon the preferred fiber for applications where stretch and shock resistance are required. (One of the most important qualities of parachute fabric is its elasticity.) Also nylon is more abrasion resistance than polyester and is easier to dye. Hope that helps.
  24. ChrisClark
    I have a 20u and have made a complete container system using this machine. The only part it could not deal with was the final sewing of multiple layers and stiffener plates but it has handled most container repairs. I suggest that you get the straight foot/feed dog/needle plate set as this is far better and handles heavier stitching better than the standard set up with the zig-zag foot. As regards it not coping well at the start on thick material, this is true but I use small pieces of type 4 pushed in at the back of the foot to level out the thickness before stitching. The price looks a bit steep, I got my 20u for $300.
  25. ChrisClark
    More trivia: they are a french invention and are made near Geneva, I think the company is called Preguet. Correct http://www.peguet.fr/peguet/gb/default.html