freeasabird

Any suggestions on how to mount my cameye II into a top mounted cookie dbox? The problem I have is that the box wraps the camera so snugly that there is no room for the cameye plug. The hc40 has a LANC port on the right side - which is the non-door side of the dbox. There is barely even enough room for the wire itself. The only option I can see right now is to cut a hole in the side of the box to allow the plug to stick out...and then cover that with gaffers tape. This would totally screw up (aesthetically speaking) an otherwise perfectly clean looking setup. Not to mention the hassle of removing and re-taping each time I have to take the camera out of the box. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -----

I agree. I don't think manual focus is an option in easy mode. Had problems with focus on a couple of jumps while shooting in easy mode. Switched to non-easy and set manual focus to where I needed it and no problems since. -----

Just ordered one for my HC40 from Cookie Composites out of Australia. They make a super tight and light box. They also have one for the 330. Check it out here: http://www.cookiecomposites.com/products.php?id=5. -----

Yeah, I've been corresponding with Jason (or Jeremy") recently about the box. This is just something that occurred to me recently and I wanted to get a perspective from someone other than the manufacturer. Not that the folks at Cookie haven't been helpful...quite the contrary. They have been very quick so far to respond to any questions I have had. -----

I am planning a first camera setup for future use (hopefully near future). My intentions are to do mostly freefly camera work. I have decided on going with a Sony HC40 top mounted on a RAWA Freefly Imagem helmet. I do not intend on using a ringsight at this time. My question has to do with top mounting the dbox. I really like the cookie composites dbox (made specifically for the HC40) due to its lightweight (110 grams) and overall sleekness. My only reservation is whether or not it can be top mounted without major modifications being done. Considering how closely it appears cookie has molded their box to the HC40, might their be a problem getting the camera to fit when mounting hardware (i.e. bolt heads) is now taking up space at the bottom of the inside of the box? I would think that the original intent of the design of the box would be to have the bottom of the camera resting directly on the inside bottom of the dbox - with the mounting screw holding it securely in that position. Any additional hardware placed between the inside bottom of the box and the bottom of the camera would seem to cause poor clearance near the top of the box (i.e. lense not aligned with opening in box and lid not able to close). Just wondering if anyone has tried top mounting this specific box and if so, have any problems been encountered? Thanks in advance for any feedback. -----

Got it on the first try thanks to somebody puttin me in the "train". Head down is a different story... -----

As far as I knew, "Kodachrome" is developed in only one or two places in the U.S. Thus, you may be looking at around 2 weeks wait for developing and mounting. At least, that's what my developer tells me. On the other hand, Ektachrome can be done in-house at most decent photo shops (not Walmart) in about a day. Difference in picture quality between film types given same camera and same film speed is negligible (to my eye anyway). I have shot quite a bit of both (on the ground). The only advantage with Kodachrome for me is the availability of very slow speed/fine grain film (e.g. "64" and I think even down to "25"). But that is probably of no use in skydiving due to the very large aperture and/or very slow shutter speed needed for proper exposure. To a keen eye (not mine obviously), Kodachrome allegedly has better color saturation as well. Not sure about the shelf life of the unused film. Check package for expiration date or ask your local photo specialist. Ektachrome runs $7 or $8 per 24-exp roll where I am at - so it might be worth just buying new roll so as not to waste jump(s) or miss good shot oppurtunities by using bad film. Lastly, I believe Ektachrome also comes in 400 speed - in case you need it for lower light situations. Hope that helps some. -----

I agree. There is nothing you can't learn from a couple of good books and a little surfing on the Net. For motivation, replace your PT with a workout "buddy". Someone at or near your level of experience and with the same goals. Makes the workouts much more enjoyable and you can push each other when you hit plateaus or start to get "burn out". -----

Had someone freefall right by my open canopy (after cutting his main canopy away and before he pulled hisreserve). He was so close that turbulence off his falling body made my canopy buck to one side. Turned my head around to see what the hell the noise (whoosh) and "turbulence" was from just in time to see him pull his reserve about 500 feet below me. The load was out of a Sikorsky in Rantoul this year. Exit separation sucked between groups. This guy was actually two groups after mine and we were still that close! -----

When in doubt, whip it out. -----

I did a line continuity check on main today and discovered 2 C/D lines crossed on the right and 4 A/B lines crossed on the left. Line groups are fine through the slider grommets to the main (i.e. no A/B lines crossed with C/D lines) and the canopy flies fine (have about 25 uneventful jumps on main). Apparently this happened when the rapid links were replaced recently with slinks. Is it possible for this configuration to cause premature wear on the lines? Is there any risk for future malfunction? Thanks. -----

I have had every single one of those dreams---repeatedly. What's it all mean? -----

Try this effortless attempt to stimulate your brain: Listen to technically complicated music such as jazz or classical or even some upbeat bluegrass. -----

From the WFFC site: "What are the requirements to be a registered skydiver at the convention? To be registered as a "skydiver" with that wristband you need to have at least 50 freefall skydives. This does not require a "license" but to expect some additional scutiny at registration if you don't. These 50 freefalls must be properly logged!" If you went through static line training, you may be short a few. That was the case with me up until this past weekend when I hit the 50 "freefalls" mark. -----

N/A

Anybody know the dimensions of a neptune? More specifically, would it fit in my Velocity helmet? I searched the manufacturer's site as well as other gear sales sites and had no luck finding the info. Thanks! -----

Progressive. They were the cheapest I could find. About $170/year for a '97 Harley Sportster 1200S. Wrecked it 2 years ago. Nearly totalled (mostly cosmetic). Progressive drove to my workplace , did a damage estimate, and cut me an initial check for the repairs that same day. Went to my dealer and got detailed estimate which was 40% higher than Progressive's initial estimate. I called Progressive and told them they were low and my adjuster said "OK" and cut me a check for the balance and had it in the mail to me that same day. I found out later they took care of the lady I hit equally as well. Not bad in my book. -----

$35 ain't bad at all. Thanks all for the help!

Looking at purchasing a used rig with a '98 javelin j4 container. Current owner says bridle between right flap and BOC pouch is not protected. However, it does have riser tuck tabs. Can a modification be done to the jav to protect the bridle? If so, anyone have an idea on cost for this? I just want to be sure of the rig I purchase so that I can have confidence while experimenting with freeflying. (PS: I already did a search and could not find specific info I was looking for.) -----

I attempted an MRI last year. During screening they asked if I had metallic body parts, etc. etc. I explained I had been grinding metal the night before. They decided to X-ray head first to look for metal pieces in eye. Nothing showed up. Then we began test. I went into tube, they turned on machine, and I immediately felt my left eye bugging out. It started twitching, then it felt like something was pulling on the eyeball itself. I squeezed the little emergency bulb in my hand to stop the test. I got out of the tube and we went back to the screening area. I explained what happened. They reassured me that they saw no metal in the Xrays of my head and suggested I was imagining things. I then asked if the Xray would see very, very small pieces of metal. They said "No". I then asked if there were say a very small piece of metal in my eye, what would happen? They said "It would come out." I asked how would it get out. They said "It would probably exit through any soft tissue (aka my eyeball) between it and the magnet." I said "No test for me thanks!" I then opted to seek an alternative testing method. Went back to my regular Doc and he approved a CAT scan instead. The CAT scan went smoothly and they were able to make diagnosis from that. Good luck! -----

Thanks a lot! I was on that freakin' sit for nearly 4 hours!!!! -----

I have been shopping for a new (first) rig and have heard several people tell me how they value a rig by "parting" it out. In other words, $XXX for the main, $XXX for the container, etc. When it comes to the AAD (i.e. Cypres), everyone says to figure about $100 for every year of service left on it. However, no one distinguishes between the value of the old Cypres 1 versus the newer Cypres 2. Are both worth $100 per year of service left in it? I have a specific example to illustrate: A guy is selling a rig which has a 2 year old Cypres 1 in it. The Cypres needs new batteries. He says it is worth $1000 towards the value of the complete rig since it has 10 years of life left in it. However, I disagree. My reason for disagreeing is this: Why should I spend $1000 for something that is no longer the latest and greatest technology, which has 10 years left on it (vs. 12 years for the new Cypres 2), and for which I will need to spend $75 to $100 for new batteries every 2 years, including today (vs. every 4 years for Cypres 2)? Why not just spend the extra $200 for the brand new and improved Cypres 2? Please advise. Thanks. -----

You forgot one: Skydiver lands with no parachute uninjured. Used what is called a "wingsuit".

***Does it turn both before and after brakes are released? Yes. I believe so. Both had about 2 inches of play when up. I did notice that when I was flying "corrected" (i.e. flying straight) with left toggle down to shoulder, that the left tail was pulled down substantially more than the right. In other words, when looking at the tail while I was flying straight, one would have assumed that I should have actually been turning left. As far as I could tell. (not saying much with my level of experience/knowledge) Yes. I did this on the second jump. I straightened my left leg and lifted my right. This helped reduce the amount of left toggle input required to fly straight. Not sure. I'll mention to my rigger though. Thanks for all the comments! -----

My problem starts immediately after opening at +/-3K. It is not a landing thing. Do you stow your toggles when you have landed? It is possible if you let them dangle that one of the steering lines could have more twists in it than the other.*** Yes, I stow my toggles right after landing. Also during every repack, I work the twists out of my steering lines...so I don't feel that this is the problem either.