gowlerk

Indeed! You on the other hand seem to have a firm grip on the concept of safety. As do most people in this sport who have enough life experience to remember Firesign Theater! Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

And apparently you suck at safety. Not even remotely acceptable here. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

The proper name for the RSL shackle is "Swedish snap shackle". If you Google that you'll find lots of examples, but not double ended ones that I can see. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

You did every thing right and are very lucky to have escaped uninjured. However there must have been a packing error made in how the main was packed. That's my take on it, others will disagree. This thread will likely cause a heated discussion on whether to cut away or not. My belief is that there is no correct answer to this question. Most people can not accept that. Ken Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

After reading some more this is not quite correct. As a jumpsuit/canopy manufacturer you would need only a senior rigger rating to maintain your product. And that makes perfect sense. (not) In reality it does make sense that people maintaining canopies have qualifications. What does not make sense is that main parachutes sold to the public don't need to meet any standards of design, manufacture, or testing. Instead we rely on the reputation of the product in the open marketplace. If you sell Novas you will need to change your name to recover your business. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

This will help you. It only shows how to build the flap at the top. I have a Reflex here that has a similar flap at the bottom as well. I've attached a pic of that as well. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

Ok, you got me there. Also I must admit that DPREs debating the meaning of the Regs is so dry that I haven't really read the thread and for all I know you could be correct. So could Pat Robertson as far as I know. I've never read the bible either. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

All the dented ones I've seen have the rolled rim smashed from the link. So I guess that side is down. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

I just received a Swift Plus with a label marking it as a 200 and a Max weight as 215 lbs. It does say 200, but does not say sq. ft.. So my research led me to this thread. It's part # 827400-0 and Serial # R6-3437, DOM Nov. 90. According to GGGGIO there is no 200 sq ft model, but I was hoping. So I measured it and did the math. He is correct. I have no idea why they marked it "200" or why the max weight is so high. I'm just posting this to help anyone in the future who may be looking for info on one of these. Ken Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

You can find the sizing chart for your rig here: http://sunpath.com/old/web_en/index.php?menu_level1=3&menu_level2=5 It lists the reserve size as from 176 to Raven II. A Dash M is a Raven. Raven IIs are 218 sq. ft. Although they stopped numbering them like that when they started calling them -M. According to the same chart you are good for a ZP main up to 190. In other words your rig is within the manufacturer's recommendations. And you are within the safe wing loading for your reserve. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

Nicely summed up. You and Wendy P both make more sense than many of the people with hard ass inflexible opinions here. Those who would scream that newbies shouldn't be given both sides of the argument are just afraid that they will make a decision they disagree with. I don't use an RSL myself, but I have and I would again possibly. My only argument is with people who plan to disconnect one during a malfunction. My opinion is that you need to make that decision before you board the aircraft. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

There's nothing quite like reading a guy who's screen name is Masterrigger telling everyone that the regs say only he can do something that quite obviously anyone can do. Even as other highly qualified riggers try to tell him he is wrong. A little like having Pat Robertson interpret the Bible for you. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

I'm guessing he does his own sewing and leaves Grandma out of it. Probably manufacturing p/c s and needing handles. You might ask Larry Chernis where he gets his from. You can buy brand new p/c s with bridles and pins and and even hackies from him for not too much more than Paragear wants for that handle. Maybe he will sell you handles. Ken Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

A Pfaff 332 is just the free arm version of the 230 that riggerrob speaks highly of. Also the slightly newer 260,262,360, and 362 are also variations of the same very fine machine. Some are flatbeds and some are free arm and they have various systems of built in stitch patterns that don't matter for rigging. I have a 362 that I use mostly for bartacking finger trapped lines. I like it because of the way the feed dogs are set up. It has a section of feeddog directly behind the needle. This allows a thin piece of line to feed easily. I also have a 20u, which is a somewhat heavier zig zag machine, but the feed is wider and it won't catch a line. So if I want to bartack with it I need to use a jig. All of these Pfaffs from the 130 to the much newer models use the same bobbin case and probably the same or very similar hook. They are all very high quality and still sell for $200 to $300 in good shape, although you can get lucky and buy them cheaper if you are patient. They use standard 15x1 domestic type needles, which are available in up to size 20, although I never use larger than 18 in mine for that kind of work. Ken Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

The cause of the problem and the answer to it are both right here. The flat sided needle that was working in it should not work. They are 15x1 domestic machine needles like your mother's machine uses. You can get them at Walmart. Someone has set the machine to work with them by changing the needlebar height and then re-timing the hook. If you do that you can make the machine sew, but not properly because the feed timing can't be adjusted and it all needs to work together. Because a longer that normal needle was used the feed dogs started moving the fabric before the needle was out of the material. That's why the tip got bent. If you just sew thin material you can get away with it. But when you go to sew thick items the needle will either enter too soon or leave too late. You need to get the service manual and learn to reset it. You start with the needle bar height, then the hook timing. After that your 281 will be the high speed shirt factory machine it was designed to be. Not that great for rigging work, but something good for you to learn on. Ken Here is link to the manual you need http://www.parts.singerco.com/IPsvcManuals/281-1_3_21.pdf Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

Wings does not have a sizing chart. But there is one on a gear dealers web site, probably what you are looking at. It says a pdr160 is tight. I have found that when this chart lists a canopy as tight, they are not kidding. You can generally fit one size larger than the ideal, not the max. I'd advise you to search this forum for information on the downsides of trying to over fill reserve containers. Or try the Optimum if you already own the container and need a larger reserve than fits. I see now where you are getting that info. It's on their website where they show stock rigs and what they will fit. I can still tell you from experience that they never underestimate what a container can hold at Sunrise. But one size larger Optimum will probably work. You just have to pay a little more money to buy one. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

Riggers often buy and sell used gear. It probably is not his personal rig. You can't verify jump numbers. All you can do is have it inspected for it's condition. Buying used gear is a nightmare for someone like you. Because you don't really have a clue and must trust others. Develop a relationship with a rigger that people you trust recommend. There is no way for you to develop the knowledge you need before you buy. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

I can't believe the shit storm that parts of this thread have become. Some people just can't get over the fact that skydiving is an adult activity and that adults who understand the sport are entitled to decide for themselves the amount of risk they want to assume. I have no canopy suggestions for you. I've been flying the same Stiletto 170 myself for nearly 20 years. I do want to say welcome back, be careful and enjoy. Thank God these people who would like nanny state regulation don't rule. Ken Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

Ravens do have similar characteristics to BASE canopies. That's why they are crappy for skydiving. Most of them are reserves but the older ones have attachment points to use as mains. The Raven 1 is the largest one that will fit your container. For your BASE jumps you probably use a much larger canopy. So unless you get a huge container You won't be able to simulate your BASE canopy with your skydive canopy. My only BASE jump was 20 years ago and I used my Cruiselite which was my main at the time. 220 sq ft 7 cell. You could look for one of those, but it won't fit in your Vector, and they are all bagged out by now anyway. If you really used want a 7 cell at a reasonable price that still lands reasonably well you might consider a Triathlon. They are a compromise canopy that is supposed to be good for everything so they end up being not particularly good at anything. Of course my other suggestion is that you give up the dark side and join us in the relative safety of higher altitude jumping. But then you'd probably become a swooper and that's just as risky! Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

No one can tell you if this rig is good to go by looking at that pic. I do see possible wear on the legstrap, but I can't tell by just the pic. The fraying on the main flap looks like a poorly sewn repair of the stiffener or velcro. The wear on the right legpad is just on the ROL spandex pocket where the pilot chute used to go before it was fitted with a BOC pouch. FWIW I do not see any problem that says "do not buy", but that is not worth much at all. Unless it is dirt cheap insist on the right to have your rigger or an escrow service inspect it. If you can get good references for the seller and use paypal and he agrees to a purchase inspection then it is reasonable to agree that you pay shipping pending inspection. Ken Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

I didn't say to tack it. I said "do not sew the tab" What you can do is to apply some tacking to the riser to keep it closed and the tab trapped. It is not normally required, but if you have made the mistake of allowing the Slink to take a set that keeps the tab outside this is one way of helping it to take a different set. Only Reserve Slinks are approved under any TSO, not main ones. And yes, if it is not coming out there is no problem. However that's not what he is asking about. He is asking about what to do about some that are. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

I gotta agree with this as well. Oh well.... Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

Another silly argument. If you have made the decision that you are going to lower the slider and put it behind your head you need to do it before you release the brakes. You also need to assess the situation and decide if stowing the slider is appropriate on this particular canopy ride. I usually do it. But I leave flying slider up as an option. If I release the brakes for any reason lowering the slider is no longer worth the trouble or risk. Just because one Bozo never does this doesn't mean another Bozo is wrong. G. Tirebiter Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

You can have a line snag the tab if it gets outside. The slink will take a set after a few jumps. You need to "train" it to take a set that keeps it inside. If it develops a set that is wrong you may need to push it back in and then use super tack to close the webbing and trap it there until it takes a new set. Do not sew the tab. Ask your rigger if need be. Every package of PD main Slinks comes with a set of hats. You can probably ask your rigger for some of those as well. They usually have some spares because a lot of people don't use them. But you need to remove and reinstall the Slinks to install the hats. Go here, near the top you will find Slink instructions. And lots of other cool stuff to read. http://www.performancedesigns.com/support.asp?filter=sport Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

" Find qualified instructors" That's where. Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.