TomOwen

A bit of a bump here, as I've finally solved my problems! Downloading the mpeg 2 component for quicktime allows aperture, lightroom and picasa all to catalogue, thumbnail and play my .mpg files from my CX105. I now need to decide which of the three I prefer! I think Aperture is out, since it doesn't monitor folders and uses an insane amount of RAM... so Picasa or Lightroom, both of which can now store and play my .cr2, .jpg and .mpg files! Thanks guys.

Here's another: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssfJ4BCUV-o&feature=related

You've misspelt "Certificate" as "Licence" on the form...

I have a filter on my Tokina 10 - 17mm too However... then you're limited to about 12.5mm before you get the filter in shot!

Thanks for the replies - some interesting solutions, and it seems that there is no "perfect" solution. I do backup, using an external drive that I manually copy the files on to, and also Apple Time Machine. When I said about "backup copies" I mean the alternate file copies that some programs create - e.g. iMovie doesn't let you work from your own library of .mpg files, but creates its own, and that is a drain on storage space. It seems Google Picasa is online only - I dread to think how long it would take to upload everything! I'm going to go through these solutions and come up with a strategy to use from now on - file management can take a looooooong time, especially when you change your storage method!

How do you store your photos and videos? I have tried iMovie, iPhoto, Aperture, and Lightroom... but it would be great if I could have a software solution that let me tag and arrange by date my photos AND videos, without creating backup copies that are a drain on my hard drive space. I have .mpg, .jpg and RAW files. The best method so far is a simple directory structure, keeping all my files in finder/explorer. Dropzone Name => Year => Month => Day => Stills/Videos. Anyone got any better solutions? Tom

I used to have the same Samyang 8mm... I had to sell it, it was fogging on every jump in the exact manner you have experienced. I now use a Tokina 10-17mm, which doesn't fog. I think it is something to do with the extremely thick front element you need in a lens like the 8mm Samyang. I don't know of anyone that has successfully used that lens to jump with, but if you find a solution, I would love to know about it! Tom

Thanks for the answers! I look forward to the instructional materials, it would be really good to have a play with this kind of stuff without the stereo set up!

Really nice Yarno! My Cypres 2 3D glasses work great with it Is it very labour intensive creating the 3D still images from a single exposure, and are there many disadvantages? I know Bruno used dual stills cameras for his 3D work, and still spent some hours creating a polished product - how is the time taken/product quality different when working with a single exposure? Aaaaaaaalso, did you use specialist 3D software, or just knowledge of 3D techniques applied through "traditional" 2D editing programs? Great stuff. Can't wait to see the rest!

Thanks Gary. I appreciate that I will not, as far as matters to me right now, get any better skydiving pics from a 40d over a 350d; my wanting to upgrade is purely down to ground use only. It is frustrating trying to balance the two environments! I think the wise choice would be to either upgrade to a 450d, or keep my 350d until I have sufficient funds and skills to warrant having two cameras - one for the sky and one for the ground. Right now that is well beyond my budget. Any other comments would be appreciated!

Absolutely, makes sense. I have no need for an upgrading camera for my skydiving needs, but would like a newer model for other photography work and can't warrant two cameras. Ideally I'd have a 500D to jump with and a 1D for on the ground, but I know that's not going to happen! I'd just like something that's suitable for both, but is an upgrade from my 350. Maybe a 450 would be my best bet. I am under no illusion that any upgrade will give me great photos, either in the sky or on the ground, but I would enjoy the larger screen and upgraded specs/interface. Edited to add a picture of my setup (please excuse the 90 degree rotation): http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/2141/img6245.jpg

Hi there, Just wondering who uses an xxD series camera (30D, 40D, 50D) for skydiving, and how they find the added weight. I currently use a 350D and Tokina 10-17mm to jump with (mounted on a TonFly Fuego Pro - stills on top and CX105 on the side). I don't jump tandem camera etc and probably only jump stills every 20th jump, but I'd like to start jumping camera more this year and in the future. I've really got into my non-skydiving photography, and would like to upgrade from my 350D. Would anyone who has undergone a similar upgrade say the extra 200g/190g is a large jump - top mounted on a small helmet like a Fuego Pro I would imagine that that can be quite some leverage - though only the same as adding some decent glass which I never noticed. All in all, I guess it adds up over the course of a skydiving career. I don't take great (or even good) photos in the sky, and a new camera will not help that, but I'd like a newer model for my non-skydiving photography. Looking forward to your input.

Yep! Must be a Peterlee curse? DSE - Tried playing off the card, and tried copying just the streams. Neither worked. I know what NLE stands for but that's where my knowledge of NLE stops! I have tried importing into Sony Vegas 9c, which says the files are corrupt.

I've had a bad couple of weeks for video... I put about 10 jumps on an 8Gb card before I came to upload them on to my laptop. The card already had 5 or so jumps on it before these 10, recorded a week prior. The first files copied, converted and played properly. The last few, when played, would be scrambled mixtures of the first 5. ALL play correctly on the camera. Even when I deleted the first 5 jumps, the later jumps were still scrambled versions of these now deleted jumps. Everything still plays fine on camera. Repair image database does nothing. (Says no problems found). Having never heard of this, nor had any problems, I was surprised when the exact same thing happened on a second card! I have used these cards without issue for 18 months (one card has received much more use than the other). However, I have very rarely formatted the cards, so perhaps this could be an issue. I didn't realise this could be a problem until I read about it on here and was told by a friend - I will format my cards from now on. A third, 4Gb, formatted card has shown no problems. It just seems weird that after no problems before, 2 cards would mess up simultaneously. This occurred at the same time as my A/V out port breaking. Any suggestions would be gratefully received, but I worry these may be gone forever. Cheers! Tom

Correct!