flyhy

Ok, thanks people that helps a lot..

Hi, I'm looking into buying a new cypres and am just wondering about the difference between a 1-pin and a 2-pin.. ? Which one would you recommend?

My canopy got cut (by customs?) when it got shipped over to me and I'm now in the process of a complaint to get compensation.. They're asking for the amount of damage in $ (incl. reference) but I'm not sure where to get such info and I don't have enough time to find a local rigger.. The canopy got a 5cm (2") cut through both layers of the center cell. If anyone can estimate how much those two patches (+labour) are worth and how much a canopy generally looses value from such damage (in %) that would be a great help!

anyone..?

I had canopy with the same problem and ended up measuring all the ribs to find a 2inch difference between the same cells on each side.. Be good to find out why your canopies turn just so you have something to get back to the manufacturer with.. I'd send them all back, as you say no canopy should have a built-in turn!

Are your lower brake lines HMA like the rest of the lineset?? If so you'd want to replace them anyway as HMA isn't endurable enough for the wear lower brake lines have to handle.. I've seen a guy's lower HMA brake line snap on landing, not nice. So your rigger should be able to replace them with spectra or vectran and make them slightly longer at the same time. If they are not HMA you might even be able to lengthen the lower part without replacing the line depending on how much longer you want them and on how much line is fingertrapped inside the lines.

get it fixed! do you know the reason for the turn? Compare the length of the line groups to see if one's out of place (i've had that before..). Or is it the fabric that's asymmetric? (had that before too..)

depends on the canopy i guess.. but all canopies I ever packed for myself or other jumpers opened just as they normally would...

I've used this method for 4 years now, about 3000 packjobs, and would never go back to anything else! it takes a while to get used to but then it's easy and it doesn't affect the openings! and most importantly: no chance for line overs, that should be reason enough!

I've got an old crossfire 109 and suspect the brake lines aren't quite right (even though it's just been re-lined..). Anyhow, I'm not getting a reply from the manufacturer so I was wondering if anyone out there's got the same canopy could you measure your brake lines, especially the upper part from steering lines cascade to the toggle stow loop for me? cheers.

where exactly can I find the complete bulletin on dz.com's home page..?? I must be blind.. do you have a link?

you forgot to mention the kick ass people you work with..! ;p *k*

hi rhys we get this sort of crap all the time in Wanaka in the summer when the ground heats up and warm air rises. Unfortunatly these rising air streams appear as randomly as the bubbles when you boil water in a pot, and with most upward drifts you get down drafts as well, and those can be quite nasty especially when you hit them on landing and even though you bury the toggles you don't get much lift. When those differences in air temperature get stronger and stronger there's also chance for sudden strong windgusts (from any direction!) and whirly-whirlies, neither of which you want to have around when landing a parachute. I reckon when the wind conditions get too unpredictable it's best to stop jumping for a while until the winds settle inn/down, maybe wait til later on in the day when the ground starts cooling down a bit. ..if you don't have that option then just let your canopy fly, keep it pressurized and leave yourself outs on landing incase you hit a downdraft or get picked up by a thermal.. hope this helps. *koni*

compatibility with your video lens is the most important! I think the wider the better, find it easier to fly close to the tandem and always keep them in frame. Recommend.3-.42 (video) & 16mm fisheye from Zenit (cheap!) ...

Can't you just get a step ring?

To try: When you roll up the tail edge (b4 putting it on the ground), roll the seams up really really tight

abot 500-600 jumps for spectra (or whenever the canopy starts changing flying characteristix), abt 600 for vectran (or whenever lines wear out, esp keep eye on brake lines!!!)

Get the hard housing risers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The 10d/20d are good quality cameras, very tough! But the rebel xt is much lighter and smaller and good enough for what we do! Question is, will you ever put your camera in a situation that a slightly more robust 10d/20d can handle but the rebel xt can't? I mean if you lose the camera in freefall or jump through massive rain both types of cameras will suffer! My advice: get a rebel XT and to make it last longer, cover it with tape that'll avoid scratching and protect it from moisture and keep the temperature steady. A good lens is the 16mm from Zenit, that's cheap as and takes nice pix. (get it on www.rugift.com) I've ditched my 10d for a rebel xt, deciding factor was speed (frames/sec), pixels and the weight! After a few reserve openings with a camera helmet you do appreciate every gram less on your head! And I haven't had any failure or problems with the XT so far (touch wood!)

I've hurt my neck several times jumping with a standard camera helmet and my physio recommends getting a helmet where the weight of the cameras is more centered. It should also be as light as possible. Can anyone recommend a suitable brand/model?

You can simply use your own 'neck guard', your muscles. If your jumping with cameras on your head, it always pays to do exercises for neck/throat for extra stability. Even if you buy a slow-opening canopy, you can always end up having to use your reserve and that will save your life rather than your neck..

same here..!!

Know how you feel, happened to me before on a mal. Have you tried to find the helmet? If you have an idea of where you were when it happened grab a few mates on go out on a little search mission could be worth it.. I was able to carefully break the tape out of my camera which recorded all the way to the ground, great footage :) Also it's a good idea to keep the camera for spare parts if your new camera will be the same model! You dytter will still work if it was in a hard shell dytter pocket..

Do you have any photos of that example or a web link?

Well, the tab water I used (no destilled h2o in this area..) had a pH of 9.5, the same source water that I soaked the spot in was 8.5, so still alkaline but less then the 'pure' water.. It happened to the other jumper quite a while back so could be different reason. But then I'm not exactly sure when I got those spots on my canopy, as I could've mistaken them for dirt. They're about 3 small spots on the center cell close to the tail edge. cheers for all your help!